Bark edged slabs

Jeff · January 31, 2017, 11:35:22 AM

I have several live edge with bark, walnut slabs thanks to da Magicman. My question is, can I plane them without fear of destoying the planer knives. Or do I have to just plan on sand sand sand?

chet · January 31, 2017, 11:46:22 AM

If ya wanna take a road trip I can run them through my drum sander. ;D It'll run up to 24" in width.

Jeff · January 31, 2017, 11:55:20 AM

That may be the ticket... ;) I don't have a moisture meter, so I have no idea when or how long it will be before they would be ready. I have them standing on end in the pole barn, turning them every few days.

Jeff · January 31, 2017, 11:57:37 AM

I'd still like an answer on the planer though. I'm trying to justify one. ;) My other one is just parts now for someone I guess.

LittleJohn · January 31, 2017, 12:00:43 PM

I feel that you will have to dry them very slowly, to reduce the amount of stress between the wood and bark.

..or just use some trim nails to hold the bark on

BY THE WAY, I have never successfully tried either technique; but I also like the look of live edge with the bark (mostly White or Swamp Cedar)
...I do know a guy with a 50" or so sander ;)

Magicman · January 31, 2017, 12:18:13 PM

That particular tree was live standing rather than a "creek extraction" so there should not be any sand/dirt in the bark. Also, I kept the butt end high while skidding.

I would not hesitate to plane it but my planer is not that wide. Chet's power sanding offer sounded good.

Jeff · January 31, 2017, 12:20:34 PM

Lynn, round trip to Chet's is just short as one way to you, and he's in the same state!

Magicman · January 31, 2017, 12:24:11 PM

Yup I know, the Iron River/Copper Harbor area is "way yonder".

Weekend_Sawyer · January 31, 2017, 12:30:02 PM

I've snuck through there a couple of times on bike trips.

Jon

21incher · January 31, 2017, 12:59:36 PM

I like to let 2 inch walnut slabs air dry for about 3 years before touching them. Stack them flat with stickers and weight on top so they remain flat. Coated or not I always get cracks in from the end when air drying. The good thing about walnut is the bark stays on tight after drying.

Jeff · January 31, 2017, 01:08:30 PM

The 9/4 slabs are destined for riteleg legs. What would be the reason to dry for so long for inside benches?

21incher · January 31, 2017, 01:17:16 PM

Quote from: Jeff on January 31, 2017, 01:08:30 PM
The 9/4 slabs are destined for riteleg legs. What would be the reason to dry for so long for inside benches?

I don't know. I just like to let them dry so they are stable and hold a finish well. They will shrink in width quite a bit so hopefully the legs have slots for mounting.

TKehl · January 31, 2017, 02:22:20 PM

Was it creek bottom land that occasionally floods? The local chainsaw loggers chop the bark with an axe before felling if the ground is subject to periodic flooding. Upland walnut or any logs above flood line ought to be fine for sure.

Larry · January 31, 2017, 04:23:19 PM

I keep a draw knife right next to my planer so I can peel off any bark before it goes through the machine. But if I want to keep the bark I just go ahead and do it. With the carbide knives I run now I don't cringe as much as when I was running HSS knives.

High moisture content wood can interfere with some finishes. You can't get rely on information from the manufacture either. Sherwin Williams says I can't spray CAB lacquer on wood over 8 percent....I break that rule all the time. It will kick me in the butt some day.

newoodguy78 · January 31, 2017, 05:04:47 PM

Unless there is visible dirt or small stones in the bark I would not hesitate at all to send them through my planer. I've planed a fair bit of live edge stuff with no noticeable excess wear on the knives.

POSTON WIDEHEAD · January 31, 2017, 07:54:03 PM

Quote from: Jeff on January 31, 2017, 01:08:30 PM
The 9/4 slabs are destined for riteleg legs. What would be the reason to dry for so long for inside benches?

Something that thick I have dried for a year and made an inside bench.
If it cups any at all it want be much. I have taken a bench with legs on it and placed it back on the mill and sawed the cup out of it. Then turn the bench upside down and shave the legs off level again.

Are you using Legrite legs?

Jeff · January 31, 2017, 08:52:59 PM

No, I'm using Riteleg legs. ;)

As it turns out, the planer is a mute point. Most of the slabs have points 15" wide. Any planer I might get would not be that big.

Magicman · January 31, 2017, 09:14:52 PM

Those slabs are already fairly smooth. When they get drier, break out the sander and go to work.

Jeff · January 31, 2017, 09:31:18 PM

They are very smooth

newoodguy78 · January 31, 2017, 09:32:17 PM

Jeff,

Another option is having a local woodworking shop plane/drum sand them for you. There is a shop close by me that I use (I only have a 13" planer). They do a really nice job and are way more than fair in what they charge.

newoodguy78 · January 31, 2017, 09:34:18 PM

Quote from: Magicman on January 31, 2017, 09:14:52 PM
Those slabs are already fairly smooth. When they get drier, break out the sander and go to work.

Must be the sawyer and his off bearer knew what they were doing 8)

Kbeitz · February 01, 2017, 02:03:54 AM

Look into a router plane.They can be made real cheap.
Utube has some good videos.

Ianab · February 01, 2017, 02:21:08 AM

Yeah, a router sled is good for slabs like that. Doesn't matter how good the sawyer is, as the wood dries it's likely to move slightly. Cup, bow etc, Even if it's not bad, it can be enough to notice when you see a reflection in the nice polished surface.

The router sled gets you back to a true surface again, and then you can start sanding.