iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

What features to get when buying a Log Splitter?

Started by 32vld, August 28, 2014, 09:44:47 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

32vld

Well I got my first cord split and stacked using a Stihl Splitting Axe 6.8 lbs, two wedges older then me, I 'm 60, and a sledge. Though I am anxious to learn about Log splitters I am no way ready to buy one.

Yes I know higher ton rating and faster cycle time being better. I would want one that I can trailer.

Also some units will pivot and work vertical so you do not have to pick up the heavy logs. While some have mechanical or hydraulic lifts. I would think that type would be better because after the log is split you do not have to bend down to pick up the splits pieces off of the ground.

Also I like the attachment that will let you split a log into 4 pieces instead of 2.

So what am I missing when it comes to log splitters?

Please educate.

Compensation

When I bought mine I didn't care about the vertical feature. Now that I have owned it for 10 years I use that more then the horizontal position. Its either vertical and close to the log pile so I work on my knees or it horizontal next to the tailgate or table of some sort.

As far as making firewood fast I bust the logs in quarters then whack those pieces with a maul.

Features I like are auto lock for hands free reverse, vertical and horizontal positions,  offloading table, 4-way compatible. Things to look out for are plastic fill caps unprotected. Firewood always finds a way to fall and  break them. Also make sure you like the engine it comes with. I don't care much for mine. Fuel tank size has been a drawback for me too, it always runs dry when I get in the groove of splitting.
D4D caterpillar, lt10 Woodmizer, 8x12 solar kiln, enough Stihl's to make my garages smell like their factory :) Ohh and built Ford tough baby!

thecfarm

I like all features that you are looking for. But the DanG money part kept me to just a cheapy wood splitter. It does split horizontal,and vertical. When I first bought it,I was just using it for the kitchen stove. All small stuff. Than I got a OWB. Now I have to split the big stuff in the vertical position. I'm not really into the fast cycle time. Money again.  ::)  But I don't want to wait 5 minutes either. Mine does have the auto reverse. You really want that.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

32vld

Quote from: Compensation on August 29, 2014, 01:55:39 AM
Things to look out for are plastic fill caps unprotected. Firewood always finds a way to fall and  break them. Also make sure you like the engine it comes with. I don't care much for mine. Fuel tank size has been a drawback for me too, it always runs dry when I get in the groove of splitting.


Plastic caps, check.

I never thought of horizontal working off a pickup bed or trailer, vertical for working off the ground.

32vld

Quote from: thecfarm on August 29, 2014, 05:14:23 AM
Mine does have the auto reverse. You really want that.

You both have me sold on auto reverse. Thanks.

32vld

Preferred engines and brands?

Those to stay away from?

Minimum ton rating? I have been doing rounds up to 24".

Compensation

Mine is 28 ton. It has went through some really twisted wood. I am looking towards replacing my Briggs with a kholer, Honda, Onan, or robin Subaru.
D4D caterpillar, lt10 Woodmizer, 8x12 solar kiln, enough Stihl's to make my garages smell like their factory :) Ohh and built Ford tough baby!

beenthere

I use the same horizontal splitter I've had since 1985.

Have worked around the vert/horz splitters but don't like working on my knees or the lack of space to work around the wheels of the combination setups.

I roll my horz splitter up on car ramps, set up a table of a pallet for the blocks to be split, and stack the splits on another pallet. No lifting when pallet forks are used.

If I were to change, it would be to the Firewoodinator that Logrite has developed, with the fast splitter and the table to work on without bending over.

But seems most everyone gets comfortable with different setups, which makes it tough to recommend one thing over another.

Pic of my setup.


 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

goose63

 

  I pit a small atv winch on mine now the heavy aint so heavy
goose
if you find your self in a deep hole stop digging
saw logs all day what do you get lots of lumber and a day older
thank you to all the vets

garret

Started out with a Northern Hydraulics horizontal that I used a long time until I discovered the vertical splitter.  My trick to using a vertical is not to split from a kneeling position.  This I only use for the last log (the one I was sitting on).

It has long been my strategy to sit down on the job whenever possible, which is what works best with a vertical splitter.  Simply queue up a number of logs (or have your helper) close to where you are sitting on a nice comfortable one.  Pivot the logs into position under the wedge placing your elbows or forearms on your knees.  It will amaze you how heavy a log you can move and how this simple maneuver prevents or greatly reduces any stress on the lower back.  I have split numerous 2' sopping-wet red oak logs by myself, no problem.  Try that with a horizontal in the absence of a hoist.

The only drawbacks of a vertical that I can think of is the wedge is narrow and sometimes requires that the log be rotated 180 degrees if not split on the first cycle.  This happens most often with stringy grain and sometimes with logs >16" diameter.   Second issue is the accumulated splits must be frequently removed from your working radius. 
E-Classic 2400 comfortably heating 4,200 sq.ft. and unlimited DHW, Off-grid, Photovoltaic-powered pumps in gloomy SW PA , 34 t splitter, numerous Husky chainsaws

32vld

Quote from: garret on August 30, 2014, 09:09:02 AM

The only drawbacks of a vertical that I can think of is the wedge is narrow and sometimes requires that the log be rotated 180 degrees if not split on the first cycle.  This happens most often with stringy grain and sometimes with logs >16" diameter.   Second issue is the accumulated splits must be frequently removed from your working radius.

Some more great tips. Though why do they use a narrower wedge on verticals?

bigbuckhughes


garret

In the vertical design, gravity necessitates the wedge being attached to the hydraulic rod.  There simply has to be some place for the displaced (split) wood to go, as the base plate is located on the bottom (ground).  Horizontal designs  consist of either a fixed wedge that is welded to the beam or attached to rod as in the vertical.  Both horizontal and vertical designs have a track that keeps the hydraulic rod captive and parallel to the beam.  A wide wedge attached to the rod could generate a component of force that is perpendicular to the beam when splitting a wider log with a wide wedge.  This could result in a bent rod or other structural failure.
E-Classic 2400 comfortably heating 4,200 sq.ft. and unlimited DHW, Off-grid, Photovoltaic-powered pumps in gloomy SW PA , 34 t splitter, numerous Husky chainsaws

ksks

http://www.sears.com/boss-industrial-7-ton-electric-log-splitter/p-07172734000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

Since you are splitting by hand I assume your are not doing volume. 
Have you considered one of these?  Cheaper.  Lighter.  Easier to handle.

I just bought one.  Cut a tree down and was going to test it out.  But, the entire tree was rotten top to bottom.  It all went to the burn pile.

I'll be using it on some good oak in a couple weeks.
Striving to be average!

glassman_48

32vld,
I am 61 years old so I dont last long unless the splitter has a log lift :) :) :)  I purchased a commercial log splitter from twister industries a few years ago.  Mine had a log lift, a chip grate and an adjustable 4 way wedge.  I just roll the logs onto the lift ramp with my foot and it will lift up onto the splitter beam.  If its a large log after it goes through the wedge it lands on the chip grate which is about 24" above the ground.  Then its just a matter of tossing each half through the wedge until the whole thing is done.  I tried the vertical for large logs and my back couldnt take it.  Now I have a firewood processor so life is much easier.   

beenthere

ksks
QuoteSince you are splitting by hand I assume your are not doing volume. 
Have you considered one of these?  Cheaper.  Lighter.  Easier to handle.

Splitting by hand can keep up with a good many splitters, just the guy splitting gets tired after awhile and the splitter does not.  ;D

Will be interested in how you use your electric one and how many cords you plan to split.

I considered one just to keep in the garage and split apart some larger chunks as using the splitting maul on the garage floor is noisy and pieces can fly around. But when I get close to considering the electric, they are so slow (like a turtle) and require the "two hands on controls" while the piece balances on the rail, I never bought one.

Hope you will let us know how you like yours.

Maybe I'll break down and get one. ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

ksks

beenthere,

I used a friend's electric of a different brand.  It did well.  With the rounds that were too big, I cut a line in it with the chainsaw and that was enough to get it started. But it easily split 14-16 inches.

The Boss Industrial takes only one had to operate.  It sits low so no high lifting of rounds.
Its 7 ton.  I think the other one I used was a 4ton DR.

I will only burn about 2 cords max so I don't need a big one.  The heart, back and shoulder limit me getting too excited about all this.  It should be OK.

I was disappointed I couldn't use it on the last tree!

It also has the 4x splitter attachment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kxTH9Q0oac
Here's a video of it working.  Not too slow.


Striving to be average!

Oliver1655

John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

32vld

I just found out about flywheel splitters. Youtube showed a wide range of flywheel designs. I liked the old machine that used a belt driven flywheel to operate a crankshaft with a wedge mounted on the end of a connecting rod to drive a wedge down into a log to split it.

I also heard about new flywheel splitter that uses a rack and pinion gears. Yes the cycle time is fast. Though you can not have a 4 way splitter. Thing is I see gears coming together and apart will eventually lead to excessive gear clearance causing the gears to shear or strip.

So who is for hydraulic or rack and pinion splitters? Why?

beenthere

QuoteSo who is for hydraulic or rack and pinion splitters? Why?

I'm for hydraulic, and why?  because that is what I've had for 30 years.. same one and it keeps splittin.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

NHMike

I'm for the flywheel splitter.  Picked up my Super Split this past spring  8) It is fast, fuel efficient, Very low maintenance, and they hold their value IF you ever want to sell it.
For me, this splitter has taken the work out of splitting and makes it fun.

ksks

Quote from: beenthere on August 31, 2014, 07:00:29 PM
Will be interested in how you use your electric one and how many cords you plan to split.

I considered one just to keep in the garage and split apart some larger chunks as using the splitting maul on the garage floor is noisy and pieces can fly around. But when I get close to considering the electric, they are so slow (like a turtle) and require the "two hands on controls" while the piece balances on the rail, I never bought one.

I bought the one in the video above.  It is a one hand operation: turn on the electric motor and use one hand on the operating handle.

I used it to split two oak trees I cut down.  Biggest diameter was 16".  It did really well.  Easily split the wood.  There was one that had a big knarley section where the limbs split. I had to maneuver it around to take off different sections at a time.  It would not split thru the center of it so I out that in the burn pile. 

The 4x attachment didn't work well.  It sets too low and what it splits off is too little.  On some of them I could hold it up a bit until the wood touched it.

When I move to this house full-time, I will probably only go thru 1-2 cords per year.

For my purposes this is great.  I can drop a tree from time to time and split it up easily.  Put the rounds on the tarp next to the splitter, sit in my low folding chair, lift the logs on, split a chunk off and throw it into my trailer to go to the pile.  I may get a heavy duty ext cord and set it up next to the woodpile.

This is not for the big boys.  But, if you an old tired guy like me who can only to so much at a time, it works great.

Beenthere, if you're needing a little something for your garage, I recommend it.

Striving to be average!

bigbuckhughes

Does any one have info on where you can buy a 4/way splitter attachment?

firemedic589

As a personal choice I prefer B&S engines, nothing other than I've alwas had them. But whatever you do DON'T buy a no name splitter off the internet.

Why, I bought mine about 6 yrs ago and had the engine valves go bad. Since it was a no name the repair shop had no way of finding the correct parts. So, a new engine had to be put on it. Then my piston lost it's seals, again no way to find the corect replacement, I had to take it to a hydraulic shop and have them specifically made for that piston. 2 hoses went bad, replaced. The foot plate broke off, replaced with new steel and welded.

So, a $900 splitter, a $750 engine (parts/labor), $300 seal/hoses (p/l), $250 foot plate (p/l). So, $2200 later I have a splitter I should have bought in the beginning.

Read reviews and research it before a hefty purchase.

firemedic589


Thank You Sponsors!