Felling wedge choices

[B.C.C. Lapp]

Geeze Pete, they must have some weight to them. How do you carry them around all day?

[Magicman]

Don't be concerned about the chain....it will buff out. 

[Nealm66]

Ya, not really sure what the steely's ( what we called them) were made of. I pounded on some and they definitely lift better than anything plastic but nobody wore eye protection and it only took a few chips smacking your bare arms to get the message. They're heavy too. I think that's why they came out with the magnesium's. This was back in the 80's and a crew average of about 35 and only 4 sets of jacks so definitely some wedging and some spooky drives keeping stuff inside the units. I could actually swing a 5# 36 at one time without breaking the handle! It's funny how the different ax head brands made a lot of difference. You could hear the difference and definitely notice how they drove the wedges in.

[Nealm66]

Can't really wedge the hardwoods off they're lean much around here. Wood is too soft and the wedges will just smoosh in before they start picking them up if you're trying to pick up much weight. Hinge wood is really weak as well. 

[Peter Drouin]

I don't log for a living I have a sawmill and get logs by the truckload. When I cut on my land, most times I cut the tree so it will swing where I want it. When I need a wedge I just bring it to the tree. I rap duck tape 4 or 6 times on the end I hit and that gets all the steel chips. I know how to run a saw, no buffing. I do cut a wedge from the notched wood so as not to pinch the saw, then put in the steel wedge and give her some. and it is just as easy to put my 12,000 lb winch from a snatch block and pull it over. 

[Grandpa]

I use K&H wedges. Usually the 10" but always have a few 8" with me for smaller trees. If the wedge is too long for the tree I bore cut the tree and put a wedge in each side behind the hinge. Then tighten up the wedges and cut the trigger wood.

[Magicman]

Who need a wedge?

[doc henderson]

How old were you in that picture MM?  

[Magicman]

I have certainly gotten myself into a "felling" pickle before, but not that time. 

I once had the wind to pick up and set the tree back on the bar/chain.  Wedges would not lift it off, so I removed the saw head and left.  When I went back later, the tree was on the ground and of course, the bar/chain were laying on the stump.

[beenthere]

I often, not always, use a wedge to keep the tree from setting back onto the bar. More than once, wish I'd thought to do that before it happened. More of an insurance thing, than a "must do" as it is so much easier than pounding on a wedge to raise that tree back up. 

[thecfarm]

Then if you have to leave the tree, the wedges are on the stump.
Seem like we have all had to remove the head and leave the chain and bar behind. 

[Plankton]

I use the redhead k&hs. Carry a 8 and a 12 in my back pocket and thats usually enough especially when cutting big hardwood its usually going where it wants to go with only a little tweaking. Cutting pine I might put on a wedge pouch and carry 3 or 4 if im just chopping. Extra is in the skidder if needed.

[Hogdaddy]

I often, not always, use a wedge to keep the tree from setting back onto the bar. More than once, wish I'd thought to do that before it happened. More of an insurance thing, than a "must do" as it is so much easier than pounding on a wedge to raise that tree back up.

I do this often, also.  

[Magicman]

I think that this is the same guy that needed a wedge above:

[Old Greenhorn]

I think that this is the same guy that needed a wedge above:

Lynn, I don't think a wedge would help that guy. He has a serious dispute with understanding physics to work out first.

[John Mc]

I use 12" wedges. Usually carry two in a pouch on my tool belt. If I'm working on a smaller tree where 12" will hit the back of the hinge, I'll bore a path through the center of the hinge for the wedge. 

I don't really like the wedges with the barbs on them. The ones I've seen seem to be more brittle. They are also a pain in the neck if you need to remove a wedge before the tree i tipped over. (Doesn't happen often, but occasionally I do need to remove one.) I prefer wedges that have a texture on both sides - the ones that are smooth as glass on one side are more prone to popping out. I've end up with Stihl wedges, since those are what I can find locally that are textured on both sides. (Stihl also make one that is smooth on one side that I do not like.)

I generally don't stack wedges. If one wedge isn't enough to tip the tree, I'll stick a cookie in the gap created by the first one and pound the second wedge in on top the cookie.

[Nealm66]

Good trick on boring so the wedge doesn't hit the back cut. Madsens sells a big yellow that is the equivalent of 2 12's if you're concerned about slipping. A little dirt or sawdust helps to keep them from popping apart but it's a good idea to keep a wedge shoved in just in case