timberjack 608 with a 4 roller, encoder or computer problem

[PJS]

Good day folks, this seems the most relevant thread to my current issues, sorry for dragging up an old one!

I bought a timberjack 608 with a 4 roller. Everything was working fine, encoder wheel was working fine, used it to debark a load of cedar logs for my neighbours mill to get a handle on the controls cause I have no experience. 

Tracked it up into the bush and now the computer isn't reading the encoder wheel all of a sudden. All other functions are working. 

Have lights on the encoder, they cycle as it turns but no readings in the computer. 

I've pulled the plates and checked voltage on the channel wires A and B, 4.26 up at the encoder, 4.26 behind the head, 4.00 in the junction box on the boom, 4.00 in the wires to computer harness. Not sure if that's correct? 

my neighbour is going to pop by this weekend and we are going to run a test wire direct from computer harness to the encoder. 

Thinking out loud, after reading the manual online, I'm starting to wonder if I might have given the computer a headache peeling the cedar logs?  Too much back and forth without activating the run through mode? Is there anyway to reset it? Really don't want to change all the settings cause it was setup great by the previous owner, who I reached out to but he's baffled as well and too far away to help. 

Going to call Joral on Monday, but thought I'd ask you more experienced fellas if this had happened to anyone before.

Thanks in advance!

[chet]

I took the liberty to put this in a thread all of it's own. It should help you get some quicker responces.

[Corley5]

Broken wire. Somewhere. Start checking continuity. Multi meters are your friend.

[Firewoodjoe]

What do you mean change all the settings?  Can you switch through all your lengths? And does the system need to be turned on after you start the engine? Or does it come on with the ignition key? Either way it should restart every time. Show you what year and version it is prior to seeing the length screen. Mine with quite measuring sometimes. I have to switch through multiple lengths quick and go back to the one I want. Works every time. Check grounds also. Encoder could still be bad but I doubt it. 

[PJS]

Thank you @chet 

I've been checking with a multi meter, neighbour hasn't made it over yet to run a new test wire. I went over it all again and got the same readings. 

I've still been using the machine, everything works as it should except the encoder to measure length in the computer. Just been delimbing and spinning head around as my measure stick and cut 12' logs. Honestly been hoping it just magically fixes itself 🤣

When I use the saw the computer registers "sawcut", when I use the "run thru" button the computer registers it. I can switch through all the lengths but no numbers when the encoder rolls. 

Is the chip in the computer for the measuring system only?

@Firewoodjoe sorry I should have been more clear, the manual says there is a way to clear the memory in the computer (holding the # button on the opening screen) but then you have to re enter the skews, slowdown increments and your pre set lengths apparently. 

[Skeans1]

@PJS 
Which computer does this machine have in it? A single screen/computer combo unit? A separate computer with a relay box then a screen?

[PJS]

@Skeans1 it's the single red box combo, have the old one in a box that came with machine as well.

Haven't had a chance to call Joral, got shingles at 35  Blamed the wife for stressing me out

So on top of farm chores I've only spent about an hour in the machine every day, about as much as I could handle. Getting better with the controls, keep popping the chain off when cutting off the stump.

last tree I finally figured out to use the rollers for up pressure on the tree, duh! Hopefully that will keep the cursing down!



My new measuring device lol

[Firewoodjoe]

I guess I won't worry about my old version then. Well mine says 2005 but it's not the red box one. Also reroute those hoses and you'll save a lot of blown hose problems. Run all of them into the tower and down. Then tee or turn them back up to your feed wheels. Get hoses the right length and they won't rub when you open and close. Mine are about 42" I think. 

[leeroyjd]

@PJS a little up pressure on main boom along with a little tilt might be better for getting them off the stump without chain coming off.

[PJS]

Finally got in touch with Joral. Very helpful, sent him a video of lights on encoder, thinks it's bad, said it probably has play in the shaft. Don't blame the encoder, blame the operator  learning on the fly. 

Have to go try and take it out. 

Anyone removed one before? Tips or tricks? Does the entire cover need to be removed? 

@Firewoodjoe I'll have to look at pics of how you have your hoses run. When I bust one, I'll start the process.

@leeroyjd thank you, been getting the hang of it now, rollers, lift up and a little push forward, seems to do the trick. As long as I avoid the rocks! Ruined one chain. 

How long do you guys run your bars? 

[Firewoodjoe]

Well I hope the encoder is the fix. They're not cheap. Pull the cover off and pull the encoder bolts. It just skids out. Has a slotted shaft. You'll see it. You may have to tap and get that cover to bounce or find the best spot to get a very flat screw driver in to start it. Pretty easy. I've bought 6 bars in about 15,000 cord. Still use them all. Grind them and straighten them. Change the tips. 

[nativewolf]

Finally got in touch with Joral. Very helpful, sent him a video of lights on encoder, thinks it's bad, said it probably has play in the shaft. Don't blame the encoder, blame the operator learning on the fly.

Have to go try and take it out.

Anyone removed one before? Tips or tricks? Does the entire cover need to be removed?

@Firewoodjoe I'll have to look at pics of how you have your hoses run. When I bust one, I'll start the process.

@leeroyjd thank you, been getting the hang of it now, rollers, lift up and a little push forward, seems to do the trick. As long as I avoid the rocks! Ruined one chain.

How long do you guys run your bars?

til they are so mangled they can't be re-bent.  When we started with a danglehead we bent a lot, many many, bars.  We bought a barbender from the kind folks in Nova Scotia and that has done wonders though it is expensive.  Now I rebend 5-10 a month but we cut big hardwoods and stuff happens.  We lose one a month or so.   If you are new to operating one I'd just chalk up losing some bars as part of learning.  Though i think the dangle head is worse than a fixed head.  Not sure but my guess.   Replacement tips are nice too.   I think a good hydraulic press could rebend most of your issues.  For compressed rails we use a chisel with hand guards- amazing useful things.  I've fixed many a crushed rail with a big chisel and a 4lb hammer.

[Firewoodjoe]

The 3/4 is a hole different animal than a 404. 

[PJS]

I did end up getting this fixed. The encoder was bad, there was play in the shaft. Replaced it with the new one, crosstrac shipped one to me fast, and there was still nothing. Finally traced the broken wiring, had to re wire from the boom through the head to the junction box below. That was fun, glad I've got skinny arms. But it is working now. 

The new problem, the young lad that works with me popped the track off the other day, just rode up the side of the stump the wrong way. At 15 he's very mechanically gifted and knowledgeable. He propped it up on a stump and got it off the ground, and pushed the idler back with the head and chained the track to the boom and got the track back up and on, before I even made it up the hill to him. Only problem, I think that it may have created a vacuum in the idler because we can't get the tensioner to take grease. We undid the fitting and it takes grease, but I can feel the cylinder right at the bottom of the threads for it. 

Any suggestions? I'm going to strap the wheel and try to pull it out with the boom and hope it breaks the vacuum and takes grease.... But not sure what other options I've got. 

[BargeMonkey]

Broken spring pack / can ? Seal isn't blown out on the porkchop ? Lift the track and should be able to slide it enough with a bar, move the idler a bit, add grease. 

[PJS]

Barge the equipment guru...Well we got it to take grease and got a few more trees down...but it didn't last long... everything happens for a reason... got home from workin on the dozer tonight, cause it blew a rad hose and I got a nice bath of coolant getting it off yesterday.... and the young lad says to me,

"I've got good news, more good news, I've got bad news, more bad news, and I've got really bad news, and some more good news"

He got the track off on his own, which is where he was suppose to stop.... But he took the two bolts out and decided to see how easy the idler moves and it just slid right out with a strap from the head..... not only was the seal gone, but the spring is broken... and not only is the spring broken but the metal where the spring sits... so now I've gotta find some new parts and we've gotta drag the welder up into the bush on the forwarder lol

on the bright side, he had been having trouble getting the forwarder in gear, so he took that apart and found a worn out metal tab on the shifter near tranny, he went to the steel pile, cut a new tab drilled it out as required and installed it, it works beautifully. He's quite the talented young man!

[BargeMonkey]

 I've just broken enough stuff, been down this road. I would call around and see what a boneyard gets for a good used can, alot of times you can buy one complete and have a get by spare idler. 

[PJS]

@BargeMonkey do you know if there's a difference between the undercarriage on an S or B? I'm assuming there isn't one, both D6?... found 2 tensioners up in Quebec... I'm sure shipping won't be cheap so I might just make the drive myself