I need help with my setworks. I'm putting a drag back on my 2000 and on the setworks my drag back button makes my head go up a little over 2". Larry on here only goes up about an ½". If any of you with 2000 would check yours and see what it does it would help me. I called Jason at TK the other day and it seem there might not an adjustment for it. But I'm sure there is some way or I'm just doing something wrong. I did it like they told me. Thanks for any help. Ricky
I will check mine tomorrow and get back with you.
I will check mine. I don't have drag back but the set works should work like I do. I would not settle for Jasons comment. Some thing is wrong, probably somthing minor.
Tim
I just checked mine 3 times and it raised 3 1/4" every time. Hope this helps.
I checked mine today raises 2.5 inches each time. Thats for cutting 1 inch soooo that definetly would not work, hmmm was thinking of adding drag back this year. Would love to hear what your fix is. Acts like the 1/2 up that is supposed to be programed in the drag back feature is wrong.
Hope this helps Tim
I am not sure of the program thickness I was on at the time. I will check in the next few days. The weather calls for rain tomorrow.
I'm going to give Jason a call, sounds like some are ½ inch and some like my setworks are 2 or more. The book if I remember correct calls for a ½ inch raise in the blade. I built my drag back fingers to be 7/16 below the blade so it would just clear the cant on the return. I never try using it till I built the drag back. I've got a few more things to add on the mill before I can use it. I have to fill in the space between the 1st and 2nd bunks so the board will slide back to me without falling down between them. So far I have about $220 in building it and I had a welder do it for me. It was really more cutting metal than welding. Ricky
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't it raise the thickness of the board you are cutting plus some fixed amount, say 1/2"? ???
I would think 1/2" is all you would want so the tips of drag back bars have enough room to push board back on return. The bottom of the tips should be just above blade height. That might be easier to adjust than the set works. If your using drag back arms all the time on every board its a no brainer but if your using it on and off you will have to concentrate on your blade height on your return
It only should go up ½ inch. That way if you are cutting ½ inch boards it will still work. The fingers should hang about 7/16 below the blade. Someone correct me if I'm thinking wrong here. Ricky
Ricky, I think you are right on track and what you are designing/building is going to work just fine.On my Baker the fingers are the same height or a little lower, 1/8 - 1/4, than the blade,depending on how much down tension
I have on the blade rollers.My computer set works don't work and I've never used them.I just raise the sawhead so the blade and fingers clear the cant on return.I try to raise it half the thickness of what I just cut but it is not that important as long as the fingers have good contact on the board you're dragging back.If your fingers are lower than your blade....you can never "screw up" and knock the blade off because you(me) forgot to raise the sawhead.I'm thinking you just program the computer to raise it the height that works for you.
I have two rollers back at the sawyers station that the dragged back boards roll on.I had to add on "fillers" to close up the space so nothing would get hung up in the bunks.On a small log the boards come back almost level.
On a big log, the boards will come back and "fall off" at an angle and have the serious potential of getting hung up in the bunks or rollers.
Best regards, Tom
Hi Ricky:
I am ashamed to admit that I am useless to help you. But please email me personally (wjohnson@timberking.com) with your number and I will have Mike or Jason call you this morning!
Or you can put your number on here but then who knows who will start calling you!
:)
Best,
Will
Ricky. If the fingers are lower than the blade, a lot or a little doesn't matter, it is some protection for the blade when dragging back.
For me it's not if but when I get stuck in the middle of a cut and need to back up. I have to raise the fingers up so I can return the sawhead. I have a bar welded to the three fingers I have and I just wire them up out of the way.On the two new fingers I'm making to add on I'm going to drill a 1/4" +/- hole on the lower end of the fingers so I can pass a wire thru and wire them up when needed.
Will
QuoteOr you can put your number on here but then who knows who will start calling you!
We have the FF convenience of the personal message feature to send private info back and forth.
:)
Mine raises the thickness of the cut plus 1.25" every time.
Through a little sleuthing here in the office I managed to track Ricky's number down.
I asked Mike Alexander to get in touch with Ricky right away, which he did. They spoke and now, hopefully, we're heading in the right direction.
The culprit seems to be some slightly confusing wording in our manual.
Will, your taking a personal interest in this issue is much appreciated and says a lot about TK's concern for thier customer after the sale. smiley_clapping
We look forward to hearing back from Ricky on this.
Ok guys I finding out more about this daily. Like Paul said my setworks work the same as his. When I got home tonight dark and raining I went out to check it. Whatever you have you setworks set at it does raise 1 1/4" plus the board thickness you are set at. So I read wrong in the book, I should of make sure before I design this project. Now I'll probably make a new set of fingers maybe 1 3/4 inchs below the blade. That way if I cut 3/4 inch boards it will still clear the cant.
Thanks for looking into this also Will, Mike did call and we talked about this today. Right after Mike called I happen to stop off with some freight to a shop that had a CNC tool that cuts metal, he said he would make my 6 new fingers out of 1/4 metal for me for $100. Sounds good to me. Ricky
Yep that is a good sign when the owner of the company drops in to answer questions. Thanks Will.
Why is it people who build and sell sawmills are so much more helpfull then people who build and sell tractors. Seems like whenever I have a problem with my mill I get answers and support right away from Timberking. I wish I could say the same for the maker of my new tractor.
Ricky, thanks for asking this question. It appears all who have tried thier own drag back feature are actully working correctly. It makes sense since everyone was getting about the same results. I would love to see some pictures of your completed drag back system. Good luck
Tim
I got the drag back on about a week ago, needs some changes mostly in the fingers that drag the board back. It takes some getting use to after not having one. But I think I'll like it when I get new fingers built. First log I cut with it I got hung up because I didn't make the fingers so they would fold back at a 90° >:(. I was slabbing a cedar up and make the first cut too deep. Live and learn.