Watcha Makin'?

[Quebecnewf]

My second Morris Chair in birch 


 

 
Quebecnewf 

[olcowhand]

Very Nice, Quebecnewf.

[aigheadish]

Well maybe this should be in the did something dumb thread... 

That router table, more my bad design and mismanaged calculations, tried to send me to the hospital.

I was mowing along removing material from the bottom of that cutting board pretty well. The bit was going around an inch deep and I was getting better at it with every pass, slowly incrementing my way to final depth. 

When I was trying to figure out the depth my router/bit would go, using other wood I had around the house to use as a sled, I found that I couldn't use something too thick and still hit my depth on the cutting board. Thusly, I cut a channel on the bottom of that table, in which to sit the router and screw it in through the top of the table. I bevel cut the screw holes so the screws weren't sticking out on top, and it seems as though between the channel to increase my router bit depth and the beveled screw holes I didn't leave enough wood. 

The whole router fell out of the hole as the screws didn't have enough wood to hold the router up. Now, the way this is going is I'm sliding the cutting board around on top of the table and the router bit is invisible to me, so I didn't notice, immediately, that the router had fallen out of the table. Either the sound was off or something didn't feel quite right and there the router sat, horizontally, with the deadly bits spinning about 2 inches from my stomach. Luckily neither me or my shirt got wrapped up in it and it seems the cross pieces that held the legs of the table together and apart really saved my bacon. Phew.

[jimbarry]

Well maybe this should be in the did something dumb thread...

... Either the sound was off or something didn't feel quite right and there the router sat, horizontally, with the deadly bits spinning about 2 inches from my stomach. Luckily neither me or my shirt got wrapped up in it and it seems the cross pieces that held the legs of the table together and apart really saved my bacon. Phew.

Wow. Lucky you are. Maybe pick yourself up a phenolic plate to secure the router too. Here's a small portable table I built years ago.
Suggestion, rather that blind rout the groove, you could secure the board to a flat surface and run the router over the top. That way you get to monitor your work while hogging out the wood.


 

[gspren]

I believe I'd use a piece of Aluminum plate at least 1/8" thick about 6" x 6" or whatever it takes to get it to good wood.

[aigheadish]

I like that design Jim, that's what I was going for but I needed a lot more room to slide this giant board around on. I like the idea of the top running router but I'm not yet smart enough to build that jig, though it should be simple enough. 

I had it in my mind that the router bit I have wouldn't cut deep enough for what I need, so I went with this table. It needs melamine or comparable for the top so I'm not too upset about that failing but I'm certainly re-learning to measure, see what my needs really are, then measure again. 

I like the idea of a beefier plate to attach the router to. 

The router is a new, scary beast to me and the only way I'm learning with it is to dive in, but I'd rather it not kill me in the process.

Lucky indeed.

[firefighter ontheside]

I made a small door today for a little project I'm doing for a friend.  He has a void space under his stairs and wanted a doorway into it.  The door is 23"x33" and made from some reclaimed and new red oak.  It is 1 1/8" thick with plain oak ply panels.  

 

 

[21incher]

I like that design Jim, that's what I was going for but I needed a lot more room to slide this giant board around on. I like the idea of the top running router but I'm not yet smart enough to build that jig, though it should be simple enough.

I had it in my mind that the router bit I have wouldn't cut deep enough for what I need, so I went with this table. It needs melamine or comparable for the top so I'm not too upset about that failing but I'm certainly re-learning to measure, see what my needs really are, then measure again.

I like the idea of a beefier plate to attach the router to.

The router is a new, scary beast to me and the only way I'm learning with it is to dive in, but I'd rather it not kill me in the process.

Lucky indeed.

If you have a large forstner bit and drill press sometimes its safer to hog out large pocket areas with that and just do a clean up with the router. Feed direction and fence location with blind routing can cause problems. 
You should really make or buy a nice mounting plate and some no slip push blocks. We don't  want you to be the first person ever killed by his router. Learn to use templates and guide bushings for hand held pockets. 

[firefighter ontheside]

I installed the little door I made for the space under a staircase landing.  It went pretty well.  Had to cut the top of the door off at a little bit of an angle to accommodate an out of square opening.  Please don't point out the fact that I made the opening.


 

[Crusarius]

if it helps, nothing looks square in that picture

[WDH]

Ambrosia maple kitchen island top.  Since the sink was under-mount, and since the hole for the sink had to be perfect, and since I had never cut out a perfect hole in a 2" slab for a sink, I reached out to Forum member Larry, given the expert craftsman that he is, for some advice for how not to ball it up.  His instructions were so good that I actually managed to do a decent job of it.  

This is a rather large island top measuring 2" thick x 53" wide x 75" long.  53" wide glue ups to get everything tight and keep the top dead flat in real wood is a challenge in itself.  I glued it up one board at a time (5 boards total) letting the prior glue up dry before adding another as the live edges make clamping more challenging since the outside edges are not square.  Trying to glue it up all at one time would have been a heat attack in the making.  It is heavy too.  Weighs as much as WV Sawmiller after a big supper of catfish, hushpuppies, and cheese grits.

[Magicman]

  Oh Wow !!!  

You Sir, are very Perspicacious.  ;D

[aigheadish]

That's incredible WDH! 

I have a counter top peninsula that my wife would love to have something like that for. 

[tule peak timber]

Beautiful top WDH. What method of sealing did you use on the end grain above the sink?

[Andries]

So, WDH, the top weigh in at a svelte 135 lbs.?
"  Weighs as much as WV Sawmiller after a big supper of catfish, hushpuppies, and cheese grits." 
Very nice work, can you give us a general description of how to centre and finish the cut-out for the under mount sink? Or has Larry sworn you to hold all trade secrets close to the chest? 😉

[Old Greenhorn]

So, WDH, the top weigh in at a svelte 135 lbs.?
...

:D :D :D :D :D :D ;D Andies, have you seen any photos of Howard in his gallery? Unless he is only 3' tall we all doubt he could meet this goal wish prayer specification. :D :D Not that any of us could meet it either, of course except maybe Lynn.


But yes, Danny, we would ALL like to hear how you pulled that off and sealed it up. Having a top that big and thick would petrify me to make that first cut. Frankly, looking at it, with the tools I have, I have no idea how I would make it nice and clean. It's not the kind of thing you can 'shave and file, then sand' into a nice surface.

[21incher]

Beautiful work. Why do people  put bottom  mount sinks in wood tops. It's just looking for trouble once that edge gets a couple  nicks.  

[trimguy]

That's gorgeous! Great job.

[olcowhand]

Very Nice, Danny.

[doc henderson]

the darker fixtures really compliment the wood.  have you discussed the finish?  curious if that is natural color of the maple or is there a bit of stain?  how is it sealed?  Inquiring minds.  

[WDH]

Tule Peak, at this point, all I have done on the end grain at the sink cutout is to take a small brush and repeatedly soak the end grain with the tung oil over and over again until it has soaked up as much oil as possible.  I would really appreciate any advice what to do next to seal the endgrain.  

Andries, here is Larry's advice from the PMs we exchanged:

I would cut a template out of 1/4" mdf or hardboard.  Cut out the sink hole in the center of a big piece.  This way the router is cutting on the inside diameter and no way can you make a mistake.  When cutting the mdf use your jigsaw and cut close to the line.  I use sticky back sandpaper stuck on a thin flexible piece of wood to sand to the line.  Mdf is easy to sand.




Next cut a hole in your maple for the sink.  Get within a 1/8" of your line.  Use a 1/2" top bearing pattern router bit to follow the template.  If your router bit is too short to cut through the maple use a bottom bearing bit and cut from the bottom as a second step.   You can either stick the template to the maple with two sided tape or clamp it.  Make sure the clamp allows enough room for the router to get by.

Not sure how your sink mounts but if you use glue, West Systems "G" Flex epoxy is what I've been using for years with good results.  The "G" Flex allows minor wood movement and won't crack.

Hope I made myself clear.  Good luck with your project, sounds like fun.  More questions my email is xxxxxxxxx or give me a call.  

I had a few additional questions and Larry provided more detail:

Finding a pattern bit with a full 2" cutting length is difficult.  This is a good one that will work.
Amana Tool 45364 Carbide Tipped Down Shear Face Plunge Template 3/4 D x 2 Inch CH x 1/2 SHK w/ Upper Ball Bearing Router Bit  MLCS has the same thing but less than half the price...would work fine for a one shot job.

With a pattern bit that only has a 1-1/2" cutting length you will cut the sink cutout leaving a 1/2" uncut.  Than you would turn the maple upside down and use a different pattern bit with the bearing on the bottom and your maple that you just cut serves as a template.

As it turned out, I did find a 1/2" pattern bit with. 2.5" depth of cut.  It was a brute, but I could make the cutout with one cut from the top.  

21, I also have reservations about an undermount on a wood countertop.  I told my daughter, "We will see how it turns out."

Doc, the finish is 100% tung oil mixed 50:50 with odorless mineral spirits.  The maple was not stained.  It was some that had aged for a summer in log form in the Georgia heat and humidity giving it lots of blue and gray colors.  The tung oil darkened the wood considerably.  She liked the look and color of water based poly best, but the tung oil should be easier to maintain over the decades I hope and is food safe. The pic shows the top after the 2nd tung oil application.  I have applied 3 saturated coats with the 3rd application rubbed out with 0000 steel wool.  The finish has a light shine and is glass smooth.  The tung oil will take about 30 days to fully cure and become waterproof.  

[Andries]

@WDH and @Larry :  thank you for the sharing of trade secrets, it's much appreciated.

[tule peak timber]

WDH,
The method that we use for mid and under mounts is penetrating epoxy with a solvent. You have to wait a week for it to out gas then we go to penetrating over the whole thing, then sanding back down to wood, then finish. Not sure what to say if you are already soaked with tung oil. It will eventually set whether or not you used an accelerant. Typically tung oil is finished with a varnish or spar varnish and today there are a number of choices, depending on where you live. Finishes for epoxy are typically 2K polys, like Epiphanes or Awl Grip, which I use. Most of my finishes I pull from the marine or aero space folks. Again, great looking top!
  Just occurred to me that Waterlox, original formula in many thin coats would be a good option for you. Sadly, I cannot get it here any more.

[firefighter ontheside]

That sink cut out and top are fabulous Danny!

I actually did woodworking today, barely.  I cut out some plywood parts to build a bookcase in my bedroom.  Cindy wants it blue.  I do not want to paint, so I'm going to mix up some blue tinted polyurethane and spray it.  I want the woodgrain to show thru, so I may do one coat of tinted poly and then following coats clear.  I bought one sheet of 3/4 ply and one sheet of 1/4 and it cost me $120... sheesh.  I will be using some other trim and such that I have to try and save a little money.

[doc henderson]

If you want purple, talk to @Old Greenhorn