Some sawmill questions...

4x4American · August 30, 2014, 08:52:13 PM

Howdy all,

So the other day a Timberking 2000 diesel followed me home. Now I've got some things to pick yawls brains.

The 4 log stops that come up on it have some play in them back and forth. Is that normal?
The way I see it, hows it supposed to saw perfectly square cants if there's play in the stops? Some have more play than others.

I put a square up to the cant on a few of them, and they've been just a hair off. On one log, it was a bit tapered, so I brought it up with the front roller toeboard (which is not even close to square, it's almost embarassing how off it is) and made a cut. I put down the toe board, flipped it over, made a cut. Then I put it against the log stops, and made a cut. I put a square on it, and it was off. I made sure everything was still level, and it was. I checked the two other sides, and they seemed to be pretty well parallel to each other. So obviously it wasn't square against the log stops. I diddled it with a cant hook until I got the two other sides square as I could to the band. I made a cut, it looked good enough for a practice log, and I kept going. I'm hoping it's operator error.

I have to say (being a welder/fabricator at my regular job) there are some ugly welds, and a few fabrication flaws that have left me less than impressed. I know I am picky, and that not everything has to be perfect. But the thing cost enough, I expect everything square and good welds.

End rant.

Any comments or suggestions would be much appreciated. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to post a picture on this forum, I might figure it out one day. It took me a long enough time on AS.

Tom the Sawyer · August 30, 2014, 09:40:48 PM

4x4American,

My mill has similar stops and there should be some play. The are supposed to be square under load - when the log is clamped against them. When adjusting you should pull them out to check for square. I've knocked mine out of square when handling huge logs, especially if I get one hung up on a single stop.

If you make any adjustments, make sure that the first one is about 1/8" higher than the others - there's a really good reason for that. Also make sure they are fully raised if you are towing your mill. Others will be along who have the same model you do but consider calling Jason, Mike or Jimmy at TK, they'll walk you through getting it right.

Larry · August 30, 2014, 09:47:51 PM

Yes, the log stops have play in them. Similar to back lash on a metal lathe or milling machine. Once a log or cant is pushing on the stops they should be in perfect alignment with the bed. My stops were well adjusted and held that for several years. The first time I adjusted they were just barely out and I had really treated them rough. If you adjust the manual is no help. Make sure you adjust by using the jack bolts than tighten the the rest of the bolts. Overall I'm happy with the log stops although I do have one maverick that likes to jump up right in front of the blade. Might be something to do with the operator also. :D

The mounting holes for the toeboards are the wrong size and allow them to wobble from side to side. The standard position is also too far apart for the eight and ten foot logs I saw, so I fabricated new mounts to get the right spacing and drilled the proper size holes. If you leave the toeboards in the factory position you can replace the bolts and drill some holes to take the slop out.

My mill was put together square. I to noticed the ugly welds. I think there good quality...just look amateur.

TK gives good instructions over the phone to help you work through the adjustments. I can take a picture if your really stumped and would be glad to do that.

POSTON WIDEHEAD · August 30, 2014, 09:53:53 PM

It is not unusual to OVER clamp using to much pressure. Stops will flex with to much pressure.
Practice not overly pressing the log/cant to hard.

Larry · August 30, 2014, 10:06:38 PM

That's a good point. I also clamp low. Usually run the clamp hard into the log or clamp than back it off just a smidge.

4x4American · August 30, 2014, 10:16:27 PM

Thanks for all the responses!

I will check them for square tomorrow.

Bill there at TKNE made sure that I knew not to clamp too hard. I just bring the clamp to it nice and gentle.

All in all, I really like the mill. I'm definitely going to be doing some mods to it.

First thing I did when I got back was take out that yellow European blade guard on the bottom. Also, I'm thinking I might cut out the bars in the cover where the sawdust exits on the drive wheel side. They just look like they'll catch stuff and clog up.

Yea I'm not sure what's up with the welds. I'm sure they'll hold, but the form is just awful. I admit I'm a stickler for good clean uniform welds. My boss is going to lose it when he sees the welds on this thing. I thought I was a stickler til I met this guy holy cow.

I have to look closer at the roller toeboard, at first glance it seemed to me that the nut that was welded into the channel beam wasn't tacked properly before welding, and it pulled over to the side during welding. The TK dealer told me that all the toeboard were like that, I said well then how come yawl aint figured it out yet then! I'll fix it one day.

bigred1951 · August 30, 2014, 10:23:33 PM

them bars you talk about in the sawdust shoot if im not mistaken they are there incase a band was to break. They keep the band from coming through the sawdust shoot and possibly injuring someone so might want to leave them. But im not 100 percent sure on that. Other would know more

POSTON WIDEHEAD · August 30, 2014, 10:33:19 PM

Quote from: bigred1951 on August 30, 2014, 10:23:33 PM
them bars you talk about in the sawdust shoot if im not mistaken they are there incase a band was to break. They keep the band from coming through the sawdust shoot and possibly injuring someone so might want to leave them. But im not 100 percent sure on that. Other would know more

The bars are for protection.

They are a little aggravating especially when sawing Cedar but the bars are there for a reason. I would leave them alone.

Ga Mtn Man · August 30, 2014, 10:42:30 PM

Quote from: Larry on August 30, 2014, 09:47:51 PM
The standard position is also too far apart for the eight and ten foot logs I saw

The newer mills already have the toe boards located closer together.

The backstops are one of the real strengths of that mill. They are heavy built and very hard to knock out of position. I wish my current mill had them. The toe boards...well, they could use a re-design in my opinion.

4x4American · August 31, 2014, 08:29:29 AM

I agree with the design on the toe boards. I will keep the bars in for now, if they really start bothering me...well... :new_year:

goose63 · August 31, 2014, 08:59:37 AM

Quote from: 4x4American on August 31, 2014, 08:29:29 AM
I agree with the design on the toe boards. I will keep the bars in for now, if they really start bothering me...well... :new_year:

Leave them in or you might have a200 M P H knife with teeth flying out some one can get cut up in a bad way

4x4American · August 31, 2014, 09:19:53 AM

I was told by a sawyer who'd been sawing for going on 24 years to snip them things right out he said that in all his years he's never had a band come out far enough. But yea, I agree, in this day and age of liabilities and such, might be best to just leave em in.

Chuck White · August 31, 2014, 09:36:22 AM

The sawdust chute on my mill was modified before I got it and the blade catchers were gone.

One day, just as I engaged the blade to start into a log, the blade broke and completely exited through the sawdust chute!

I didn't see the blade go out, I knew it broke and shut down and removed the blade wheel covers and the blade was not there,

so I looked out past the sawdust chute and "there it was"!

The blade laid out straight, on the ground, with the near end approximately 8 feet from the mill.

Right after that, I drilled a hole up through the bottom of the sawdust chute and installed a bolt there to catch blades, and it works!

Above all else, don't allow people on the sawdust side of the mill!

Larry · August 31, 2014, 10:34:56 AM

Quote from: 4x4American on August 30, 2014, 10:16:27 PM
First thing I did when I got back was take out that yellow European blade guard on the bottom. Also, I'm thinking I might cut out the bars in the cover where the sawdust exits on the drive wheel side. They just look like they'll catch stuff and clog up.

Yea, I know most people remove the blade guard, but you can make a couple of modifications to make that guard a lot more user friendly.

With the cutout the band teeth won't catch making blade changes a lot easier. The mod doesn't effect operation at all.

The cut outs let the band self clean and prevent sawdust build up at the in feed guide. Since the band is clean when it hits the log it allows for faster feeds.

IMO the guard isn't quite big enough to allow 1-1/2'' bands and I haven't figured that one out yet.

I think the guard modifications allow for improved operation while still providing safety.

A couple of my fingers are bent in the chute from bands trying to escape so they did there job. I'll not remove them but a modification to prevent clogs would be nice.

Tom the Sawyer · August 31, 2014, 11:18:40 AM

The bolts in the discharge chute of my mill have been bent several times and one broke (and was replaced). They are there to catch broken blades and they have been hit quite a few times but I've never had a blade escape through the chute.

All blades will eventually break unless you cull them earlier. There is a tremendous amount of force released when a blade breaks, my blade wheel covers have been bent by the force, especially on the idle side. That yellow blade guard not only is there to prevent contact with the moving teeth but it also there to help contain a broken blade.

xlogger · August 31, 2014, 11:30:49 AM

I know all this things are on there for safety but I removed the bars, I saw mostly cedar and it clod up my machine just too much. Also the band guard had to come off. Made it a pain in the you know if you broke a blade. I saw by myself 99% of the time and if anyone around when I saw which is rare I keep them away from the saw head. Crank up the mill and you will see people leave :D. You will like the 2000, I'm happy with mine, this is my second mill. Give Larry, GaMtman or myself a shout if you have any questions. Ricky

redbeard · August 31, 2014, 12:09:59 PM

I keep the log stops good n square. But I always check with torpedo level on first and second cuts right inline with clamp area. Been working good.

Dave Shepard · August 31, 2014, 12:29:06 PM

Bars or no bars, it's a good idea to make sure nobody is ever near the sawdust chute when the blade is turning. Ever. My bars were introduced to the cutting torch years ago, and nobody is allowed near the mill when I am cutting. Congrats on the new mill!

4x4American · August 31, 2014, 12:30:23 PM

So I went and checked, the first two log stops are far off from square, and the next two are good. This is under load. The next thing I did was measure everything I sawed. After some math I calculated that I sawed 259 bd. ft. There were some pieces that were 1/16" - 1/8" off. I sawed all but one log using the stick. When I sawed with the stick, I did look at the computer in position mode to see where it said I was. A few times I noticed it was off a hair. I would like to pull the mill into my garage to work on it (raining out here) but the carriage won't fit through the door...I'm thinking, what if I just pull the carriage ahead, and then back in the part where I have to work...think that's what I'm going to go do.

Is there a thread that shows adjusting the log stops on here already?

4x4American · August 31, 2014, 12:34:48 PM

Quote from: Dave Shepard on August 31, 2014, 12:29:06 PM
Bars or no bars, it's a good idea to make sure nobody is ever near the sawdust chute when the blade is turning. Ever. My bars were introduced to the cutting torch years ago, and nobody is allowed near the mill when I am cutting. Congrats on the new mill!

Thanks! So is it okay for an offbearer to be on the log loader side whilst milling? I've been putting the slabs on the sawdust side and the good stuff been offbearing to the loader side. But when I get the slabs I have the carriage parked at the end of the log so I don't walk near it.

Another question, is it better to leave the band going when turning logs or to stop it to rotate logs/cants/diddlewithotherstuff? Also should I bring engine to idle to engage band or is it okay to just let her eat whenever?

Dave Shepard · August 31, 2014, 12:44:40 PM

I like TK keep my off bearer to my side or behind me. If you think of the sawdust chute as g the barrel of a small cannon, you should be ok. :D

I don't know about engaging the blade on a TK, but I personally shut mine of when turning the log or handling lumber.

You must not be too far away if you are in the SE Adirondacks. I'm on the MA/NY border.

4x4American · August 31, 2014, 12:46:25 PM

Another thing I don't like about the mill is that I can't leave the loader arms up to hold slabs for edging....I've hit the loader arms alot with the carriage. I am torching the horns off as soon as I decide that I'm going to keep this mill.

4x4American · August 31, 2014, 12:48:09 PM

Quote from: Dave Shepard on August 31, 2014, 12:44:40 PM
I like TK keep my off bearer to my side or behind me. If you think of the sawdust chute as g the barrel of a small cannon, you should be ok. :D

I don't know about engaging the blade on a TK, but I personally shut mine of when turning the log or handling lumber.

You must not be too far away if you are in the SE Adirondacks. I'm on the MA/NY border.

Looks like I'm about 1.45 hr drive from Alford, MA. I have a friend over there in Belchertown, been out that way a few times. One time over there in B-Town, we were driving along, and a black bear ran acrost the street right in front of us. Was real cool!

Chuck White · August 31, 2014, 01:02:19 PM

I don't know what the TK book says, but I have a Wood-Mizer and the book says disengage the blade when you exit the far end of the log/cant!

I disengage my blade every time, and disengaging the blade also drops the engine rpm to low idle speed.

I know there are lots of people out there that don't disengage, but it's only a matter of time and a good percentage of them will bump something, (piece of bark, small limb, etc.) and they will knock the blade off the wheels!

4x4American · August 31, 2014, 01:15:00 PM

Thanks Chuck,

Does WM use metal wheels or does it have belts or something different? I keep thinking that when I engage the blade with engine rpms up, it must wear them belts out some for sure. Another thing to think of is band life, each time the band make a revolution, it wears the band out more.