Chainsaw sharpener

[farmguy]

I use a 12v Oregon sharpener it has round stones like a dremal works great around $40 I think

[John Mc]

JohnMc, thanks for the pics.  I like the idea of that Husky file guide.  I saw on Labonville's site they have models for the .325 pitch and the 3/8" pitch chains.  Do you know if these will work on the Stihl green and yellow saw chain in the right pitch?  I'm thinking of picking a couple of these up.

As far as I know, the first one I pictured will work on any chain that takes the size file that the holder is made for. I've used them on Stihl chains before, but can't tell you what kind of Stihl chains they were. Stihl also makes this style of file holder, and in my opinion, they are superior construction to the Oregon file holders. (Not that they sharpen any better, the just seem to hold up better. The Stihl ones have a bolt that holds the clamp in place, while the Oregon ones are just a spring clip.)

I can't tell you much about the roller file guides, since I've only used them a couple of times. THey work well, but I don't know which Stihl chains they will or won't work with.

[HolmenTree]

Some good advice no one touched on is filing with more top plate angle on one side then the other side, causing the chain to cut in a curve.

When filing chains by hand on short bar saws, it is easy to file with less top plate angle on the right hand cutters as the powerhead is in the way and cramps your filing stroke .
But filing the left hand cutters from the sprocket cover side you have lots of room and it's very easy to put in more angle .

In my opinion Stihl sells the best hand held filing guide on the market and this one is not expensive. 
Files the cutters and depth gauges at the same time. Very well built tool and does a great job

https://youtu.be/pjo4ypTbb84

[woodsdog2015]

Thanks Holmen Tree, you use and recommend this 2 in 1 guide then? 

[HolmenTree]

Thanks Holmen Tree, you use and recommend this 2 in 1 guide then?

I have tested it and I recommend it for anyone who doesn't have a lot of experience in hand filing.
Or if someone does have good experience but wants to simplify maintaining their chain then this is the best all in one tool.

Myself with my years of hand filing sawchain all I need is just a round file and a flat file....all done free hand. No guides or gauges needed ;)

[Straightgrain]

Tangent:

The files sold (in boxes) by chainsawr are very-very good in quality, availability, & price; one year later, and I'm still using the first file.  8)

I cut fir, maple, white oak, & filbert at least once a week, @ 9 months/year ; I sharpen the cutters between each tank of fuel on both saws (mostly on the MS362). I run the Alaskan mill with the 461 a couple times each year.

I belive one box may be a lifetime supply for a non-profit/pro like myself.

WEIW: I run the files in an Oregon file guide.

[John Mc]

The files sold (in boxes) by chainsawr are very-very good in quality, availability, & price; one year later, and I'm still using the first file.  8)

Which brand? I think he sells 3 or 4 different ones.

[Straightgrain]

The files sold (in boxes) by chainsawr are very-very good in quality, availability, & price; one year later, and I'm still using the first file.  8)

Which brand? I think he sells 3 or 4 different ones.

You got me  ;D

I'll go out and see if I can find the box.....they are Mad Dogs.

[ksks]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-uS4_eA9zwc

here's an option for an electric.

[farmguy]

Oregon has a similar 12v one for 40 bucks it doesn't have a jig though. It has a guide plate. I quite like it myself. I believe it is called the Oregon sure sharp or something

[Straightgrain]

Oregon has a similar 12v one for 40 bucks it doesn't have a jig though. It has a guide plate. I quite like it myself. I believe it is called the Oregon sure sharp or something

I have that model too; they work great!

I found some diamond bits that last much longer than the stone bits.

I use the 12v when I'm using my construction saw (mac 3214) to cut roots or doing demolition projects like old barns etc.

[woodsdog2015]

Thanks Holmen Tree, you use and recommend this 2 in 1 guide then?

I have tested it and I recommend it for anyone who doesn't have a lot of experience in hand filing.
Or if someone does have good experience but wants to simplify maintaining their chain then this is the best all in one tool.

Myself with my years of hand filing sawchain all I need is just a round file and a flat file....all done free hand. No guides or gauges needed ;)

Thanks, I hope to get to that stage some day.  I can keep the saw sharp but I do have issues with the saw cutting in a curve but not lately so maybe I'm getting the hang of it.  I currently have a granberg jig (hand) non electric and that seems to be working good but is a little more complicated than I would like.  I want some quick and straightforward in the woods and then when I need to really touch them up, I'll go to something a bit more sophisiticated. 

[HolmenTree]

It's very important to be able to sharpen or touch up your sawchain on site  in the woods. Nothing works better for the novice then a stump vise and a file guide like the Stihl 2 in 1 that I showed earlier.
Best way to use the stump vise is hammer it on to the top of a stump about 3 feet high. Makes filing a lot easier
.

[Brad_bb]

Grandberg electric file n joint.  It really provides consistency in doing both sides the same.  I used to have an issue with the chain cutting in a curve, but once I really understood the correct way to use the Grandberg, it's not an issue anymore.  Wranglerstar did a two part video on properly sharpening with the grandberg.  The video could probably be improved a little bit, but it's pretty good.  Maybe I'll make a video...
https://youtu.be/Gzy6qYT5eg8
https://youtu.be/vbaNgDaLyEQ

[HolmenTree]

Granberg has been making everything that was shown in that video for well over 40 years now. Excellent top quality tools to use with their chainsaw mills.
Sharpening Sawchain on a Grandberg chainsaw mill is what the Grind- N-Joint was designed for. Sharpening for chainsaw milling is basically "touching up" the cutter's cutting edges from light dulling from dirt or grit in the bark of the log that's being milled.

But in the real world of the woodcutter cutting his winter supply of firewood stones and heavy ground dirt comes into the picture. Now we're looking at going to all the trouble of setting up that grinder on our b/c and hoping we're close enough to the truck to plug it in, and hopefully have a bench vise mounted  on the tailgate.
Then you will come to realize a good sharp round file will remove the rock damaged steel on the cutters alot better and faster then the little grinder stone could, without doing further damage to the temper of the cutter's steel.

The fellow in the video like myself have used Granberg's Alaskan chainsaw mills for years. And you learn to appreciate the quality of work they do. But the one thing I always kept up was my filing technique and always use a round file. Recently I'm now milling with a square filed chisel bit chain for better results in milling capabilities. 

I can see the fellow in the video is a poor hand filer from how he used that flat file on the depth gauges in the second video.  Destroying the file by pushing and pulling it back and forth like sandpaper. That just goes to show he never had the patience or the will to hand file.

He said the Grind-N-Joint is always consistent. It's not, everytime you remove it and put it back on the bar the manual resetting the tool and trying to  reposition the grinder the exact same height as the last time is  always open to human error.

A hand held filing guide that is already factory preset with nothing to mount or reset,  that will file both the cutter and depth gauge at the same time and can be carried in your pocket  can't get any more simple.
Just be patient,  practice your stroke and watch the angle of the guide and in no time you'll be a competent hand filer.

Oh, don't forget the stump vise..........

[Andyshine77]

The stone is also changing shape as it wears. Proper hook and depth gauge height is important than the top plate being a off a few degrees.   

[HolmenTree]

I'm also thinking with the knowledge of a muffler spark arrestor screen on a chainsaw preventing forest fires.......that throwing sparks from a Grind-N-Joint while sharpening in the field is not a good idea.
Especially with a chainsaw that has gasoline in it and possibly could have a leaky tank vent or fuel cap. Or just fueled up and  spillage is still on the saw.

Years ago on one summer day a fellow logger was felling trees with a saw with no spark arrestor.  He then moved to a new block that day, 4 days later a fire started on his old block and burned half of his log  pile.
Our safety committee figured out it took those 4 days for that spark to grow into that fire.

[farmguy]

You really don't get any spark I found. Only if you push too hard then it burns the temper off your chain. I don't worry about it too much because I always have it on the tailgate and the truck is always on the road. That 2 in one from still looks quite handy I might get one myself. On some chains particularly the on husqvarna's own chain they have really wide rakers and and a raker file wont touch it

[HolmenTree]

The Stihl 2 in 1 built in raker flat file is massive in thickness. Very well built product that won't flex and easy to use 2 handed . Stump or bench vise is a must though.

[UniversalFogger]

Another vote for the Stihl 2 in 1 file.  Great ergonomics, easy to use, and sharpens great.  It gives you great feedback, and is pretty inexpensive. 

Best of all, files take so little metal off the chains compared to electric grinders, and it's easier to make consistent from tooth to tooth. 

Everyone I've turned on to these really likes them.

[woodsdog2015]

Great Info. Holman Tree... thanks!