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The (Lucas Mill) Adventure Begins...

Started by JohnM, May 26, 2013, 10:15:44 PM

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thecfarm

John.been getting any sawdust on ya in this heat?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

JohnM

Quote from: thecfarm on June 01, 2013, 06:34:09 AM
John.been getting any sawdust on ya in this heat?
Ray, I got out there last night after work but the heat beat me tonight, didn't have it in me.  Have work tomorrow and may try to get out for a bit when I get home.  Have a lot of tinkering with my setup to do plus a full 'tune up', oil change, filters, etc. 

Sigidi, should you ever find yourself in the state of Maine, USA, I could use a pro's tutoring. ;) :) ;D  A lot to learn.

JM
Lucas 830 w/ slabber; Kubota L3710; Wallenstein logging winch; Split-fire splitter; Stihl 036; Jonsered 2150

sigidi

Quote from: JohnM on June 01, 2013, 10:11:34 PM
Quote from: thecfarm on June 01, 2013, 06:34:09 AM
John.been getting any sawdust on ya in this heat?
Ray, I got out there last night after work but the heat beat me tonight, didn't have it in me.  Have work tomorrow and may try to get out for a bit when I get home.  Have a lot of tinkering with my setup to do plus a full 'tune up', oil change, filters, etc. 

Sigidi, should you ever find yourself in the state of Maine, USA, I could use a pro's tutoring. ;) :) ;D  A lot to learn.

JM

Mate, funny you should say, I was half heartedly planning a trip to US of A to go to the shoot out, but then I got bitten with the kayak fishing bug and well...spare cash laying around goes into buyin more fishin gear now  :-X ( just got me kitted out with a pair of sounders on my kayak)
Always willing to help - Allan

Seaman

Just don't know what to think about a man who had rather spend time with fish he hasn't met, than a bunch of sawmillers he knows! :snowball:

Hope the fish are biting Buddy!
Frank
Lucas dedicated slabber
Woodmizer LT40HD
John Deere 5310 W/ FEL
Semper Fi

sigidi

Quote from: Seaman on June 02, 2013, 07:22:21 AM
Just don't know what to think about a man who had rather spend time with fish he hasn't met, than a bunch of sawmillers he knows! :snowball:

Hope the fish are biting Buddy!
Frank

hahaha Funny as Frank, I may have to venture out of sawmilling forum to show y'all some pictures - dunno tho, reckon that'd be scary
Always willing to help - Allan

JohnM

(I figure I'll just continue on with this thread/adventure.  Maybe it'll help someone, I know it does me! ;D)

Quote from: JohnM on June 01, 2013, 10:11:34 PM
Have a lot of tinkering with my setup to do plus a full 'tune up', oil change, filters, etc. 

Well, I got to (most of*) my tune up today.  (*didn't do the fuel filter and found a second spark plug that I didn't know was there. ::)  My mechanical 'abilities' basically amount to tearing things apart and trying to put them back where I found them. :))

The transmission oil has me a bit confused. ???  I filled until oil came out the "Oil Level" mark.

  But when I check the dipstick it only comes up to the '1' mark.  Is that right?

 


Another thing I noticed is the manual says to run the engine at 'full revs' while cutting.  There is a notch on the throttle (1) but I can push it past that to (2).  While cutting the horizontal I can keep it pushed up but pulling back on the vertical it normally returns to the notch.  Should I be pushing past the notch?  (Was going to just PM Sigidi with this question but again, maybe it will help someone else.)

 


I discovered the previous owner had been sharpening with the wrong wheel! :o  (Sig, I came inside and watched your sharpening vid to confirm my suspicions. :D)

  He had been using the red one on the left which goes with the chain sharpener.  (I think I was nearly as excited to see that in the box as I was with the mill. :D)  btw the jig is for doing chainsaw chains only not the slabber chains from what I gathered.

 


There is some 'play' in the grinder so that when it's down (which it is when you're ready to sharpen the blades) the on/off switch doesn't work.  The little sticker/tab had fallen off.

  The grinder worked but I had to disconnect it from the battery to shut it off.  I think I can just use it without the sticker laid in there but that 'play' can't be right. ???  (Not sure I'm explaining that well. ::))  Did manage to get the blade sharpened. ;D


I try to use my tractor in everything I do I around here. ::) ;) ;D :D

 


I did manage to kill the battery after I got everything back together.  Pro tip: reconnect the spark plug! smiley_dunce  I removed and swapped out the blade. (Thank you, Blue Creeper! ;D)  Partly just for the experience but also to drain the trans oil.  And I removed a nest of some sort (beginnings of a mouse nest I think but not a full blown one) that was behind the ignition switch and all up in that bundle of wires.  None of the wires appear damaged. :)

Back at the logs tomorrow. ;)

JM
Lucas 830 w/ slabber; Kubota L3710; Wallenstein logging winch; Split-fire splitter; Stihl 036; Jonsered 2150

dgdrls

JM,

"The transmission oil has me a bit confused. ???  I filled until oil came out the "Oil Level" mark."

Looks like your right on with the gear oil, I noticed the same thing when I serviced my gearbox.
run the saw a bit and them recheck when its hot.  My manual explains exactly what you performed for service.

I'm not certain on the throttle, I have the screw type, check the linkage at the motor and see where
full throttle is and back your way through the cable and links to the handle and see if its out of adjustment.

Best
DGD

Magicman

Sounds like you are making good progress and are learning it from the ground up which is good.  You do not forget that kind of "training".    ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

JohnM

Ok, I'll check that out DGD.  Thanks!  MM, I am wholeheartedly a learn by doing type. :)

JM
Lucas 830 w/ slabber; Kubota L3710; Wallenstein logging winch; Split-fire splitter; Stihl 036; Jonsered 2150

Nomad

     John, several things.  I don't think you're off base with the oil level in the gearbox.  Your throttle set up is different from mine; mine is just a push-pull cable.  Can't help you with that.  But I'd expect the second notch is what is considered "full throttle."
     As to the sharpening stone.  I doubt that pink stone did much for the carbide bits on your blades.  The factory diamond stone is the way to go.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

sigidi

John with your gearbox, that scribed line on the dipstick is 'full' and you have to make sure the mill is 'level' when checking/changing your gearbox oil - but it looks like you did that with the bucket on your tractor, for future reference (and others) make sure the carriage rails are level (left to right) when checking oil levels.

I also have the other type of throttle, but my 6-18 had this kind of throttle, having said that it didn't have 'two notches'. Best thing I can suggest is is see what revs you run at for each notch - the mill should run at 3600 rpm. If the lower of the two notches is 3600, then no problem.If the higher one (that keeps jumping out) is the 3600 position then see what you can do to 'hold it' in place while cutting.

You sorted out the grinder ok, that pink wheel is for chains - good spotting. although having said this the grinder apparently won't be able to slide back to 10 deg to sharpen slabber chains. not sure how correct this is, was told that on my first mill and never tried it personally. With respect to the play in the sharpener, try and identify where it is coming from. My first experience with the grinders, I put a large body washer behind the wingnut used to tension it to the frame, this helped stabilise it on the bracket a whole heap. But you might find there is some play in the housing the grinder pivots off - maybe the last fella wasn't very gentle with it? With the switch, you may be able to free it up with a short spray of wd-40, where the sticker should be.

So John, after you 'found' that second spark plug, you just didn't wanna put it back??? ;) is that how you flattened your battery? another thing to remember - the water bottle has a little nipple moulded into the bottom of it, if the bottle/blade guard isn't seated properly it won't deactivate the kill switch under the bottle and the motor won't fire - she'll turn over but not fire up.

Good work mate 8) well done on your first service  ;)
Always willing to help - Allan

JohnM

Quote from: sigidi on June 11, 2013, 04:12:03 AM
John with your gearbox, that scribed line on the dipstick is 'full' and you have to make sure the mill is 'level' when checking/changing your gearbox oil - but it looks like you did that with the bucket on your tractor, for future reference (and others) make sure the carriage rails are level (left to right) when checking oil levels.
If that's the case, Sig, I don't understand the point of the 'oil level' nut. ???

 


Quote from: sigidi on June 11, 2013, 04:12:03 AM
I also have the other type of throttle, but my 6-18 had this kind of throttle, having said that it didn't have 'two notches'. Best thing I can suggest is is see what revs you run at for each notch - the mill should run at 3600 rpm. If the lower of the two notches is 3600, then no problem.If the higher one (that keeps jumping out) is the 3600 position then see what you can do to 'hold it' in place while cutting.
I shouldn't have numbered them and pic isn't great.  There is only one notch for that little point on the throttle arm to sit in.  (Am I making this worse? ??? :D)  I ran it yesterday (before nearly blowing up my engine  ::) :( https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,67162.0.html) without 'gunning' it (ie leaving it in the notch) and it sounded like the engine would rev up on it's own when it would hit a knot or bog down.  I believe that's the proper way, I was just going on what the guy that sold it showed me.

Quote from: sigidi on June 11, 2013, 04:12:03 AM
So John, after you 'found' that second spark plug, you just didn't wanna put it back??? ;) is that how you flattened your battery?
Just never plugged the first one back in. ::) smiley_dizzy

Made myself some stepped 'bearers' (as they are called in the manual :)), waaaay easier than trying to wrestle the log up an incline.  Sig, going use your trick and replace the bottom 'step' with a wider one for bracing a pole for log positioning/turning.

 

This log was still a bit of a struggle because of the crotch.

 

I'll keep y'all posted. ;) ;D

JM
Lucas 830 w/ slabber; Kubota L3710; Wallenstein logging winch; Split-fire splitter; Stihl 036; Jonsered 2150

sigidi

John, I'm not sure why with your gearbox the oil at the level of that bolt isn't 'full' - it has been with all 3 of mine. Where the carriage rails level left to right? and was the gearbox 'locked' into horizontal position for the blade (not sitting on the outside of the nut/bolt where the swing over handle sits under?)

Even with one plug lead on the engine I'd think it should fire up, but run rough as guts though...

Having those stepped bearers would make it a bit easier to 'rest' in spots when rolling logs in, but how heavy is each one? Wait what am I saying we pick up heavy stuff all day  ;D

Good onya mate ;)

Always willing to help - Allan

dgdrls

OK John, sanity check.  I rechecked my gearbox oil and tried to recall what I did and if I really was a little down on the stick as I indicated earlier.
I recall it seemed low but thought did I screw in the dip stick when I checked it?

I rechecked it tonight,  pulled the stick, wiped it down, screwed it back in pulled out, right at the line.
Also when I filled the gearbox with the full level plug out, I filled it until the oil was running out about the middle of the hole not just lapping on the edge.

Sorry if I caused confusion, I'm on the same learning curve ::)

Best
DGD


Klicker

2006 LT 40 HD

sigidi

Quote from: dgdrls on June 11, 2013, 09:24:10 PM
OK John, sanity check.  I rechecked my gearbox oil and tried to recall what I did and if I really was a little down on the stick as I indicated earlier.
I recall it seemed low but thought did I screw in the dip stick when I checked it?

I rechecked it tonight,  pulled the stick, wiped it down, screwed it back in pulled out, right at the line.


Best
DGD



YES, the dipstick needs to be screwed in to check the level - sorry I never even considered it was being dipped rather than 'screwed in', My bad fella's

Hope all is good for ya John
Always willing to help - Allan

KnotBB

If you didn't see it in the manual you need to put a little anti-seize grease on the bolts that hold the saw blade/slabber drive sprocket on the motor drive end.  Makes taking it off a lot easier.   Just a little dab will do you.
To forget one's purpose is the commonest form of stupidity.

JohnM

Bit of an update.  Lots of  ;D and a little  >:(.  And not nearly as much time on the mill as I'd like. :(

The  >:( first.  Found my first metal.  A drywall screw (possibly stainless) that had no business being in these trees I'm cutting up, no idea where it came from.  Can't explain the sound but it wasn't the 'zing' you band guys talk about. :)

  I didn't move it for the pic, it was sitting right there on the log. ::)

I need to find a saw doc ASAP. Stupid little screw took out 3 of 5 teeth. (more  >:()

 

Now the  ;D (with a bit of  ::)). ;)

My shop is full of lumber and half finished projects.  (Will post finished projects soon......I hope. ::))

  

  

   I have got to either clean up my shop or stop taking pictures of it. :-[

Hoping to get back to milling soon but need to finish these projects and several others first.  And while it seems half the country is drowning we are in a heatwave at our place.  Hit 98° here yesterday!! :o  4 days in a row above 90, unheard of around here.  Don't like it one bit.

Quote from: KnotBB on June 17, 2013, 02:14:29 AM
If you didn't see it in the manual you need to put a little anti-seize grease on the bolts that hold the saw blade/slabber drive sprocket on the motor drive end.  Makes taking it off a lot easier.   Just a little dab will do you.
Will do Knot, thanks!  (I assume that means Loctite or similar product, correct?)

JM
Lucas 830 w/ slabber; Kubota L3710; Wallenstein logging winch; Split-fire splitter; Stihl 036; Jonsered 2150

dgdrls

Quote from: JohnM on July 06, 2013, 09:46:43 PM
Bit of an update.  Lots of  ;D and a little  >:(.  And not nearly as much time on the mill as I'd like. :(

The  >:( first.  Found my first metal.  A drywall screw (possibly stainless) that had no business being in these trees I'm cutting up, no idea where it came from.  Can't explain the sound but it wasn't the 'zing' you band guys talk about. :)

  I didn't move it for the pic, it was sitting right there on the log. ::)

I need to find a saw doc ASAP. Stupid little screw took out 3 of 5 teeth. (more  >:()

 

Now the  ;D (with a bit of  ::)). ;)

My shop is full of lumber and half finished projects.  (Will post finished projects soon......I hope. ::))

  

  

   I have got to either clean up my shop or stop taking pictures of it. :-[

Hoping to get back to milling soon but need to finish these projects and several others first.  And while it seems half the country is drowning we are in a heatwave at our place.  Hit 98° here yesterday!! :o  4 days in a row above 90, unheard of around here.  Don't like it one bit.

Quote from: KnotBB on June 17, 2013, 02:14:29 AM
If you didn't see it in the manual you need to put a little anti-seize grease on the bolts that hold the saw blade/slabber drive sprocket on the motor drive end.  Makes taking it off a lot easier.   Just a little dab will do you.
Will do Knot, thanks!  (I assume that means Loctite or similar product, correct?)

JM

No, not loctite in the sense of thread locker, anti-seize resists moisture and thread galling.  Usually silver colored and labeled as such.
It is produced under the loctite, permatex and other brand labels.

DGD



thecfarm

Stupid drywall screw.  :(  That is too bad. It's an adventure and than some. ;D
Good luck with the search for the Saw Doctor.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

GDinMaine

Drywall screws are great when you want to hold things together and they are very tough.  Unfortunately that toughness is what you don't want when hitting it with a saw.  I had the "luck" to hit one of those before, it was not fun at all.  I'm learning that some nails are much softer and even a bandsaw can keep going after the encounter.
It's the going that counts not the distance!

WM LT-40HD-D42

Seaman

John, we have a good on here who is familuar with lucas blades. SPD Lee also used him for a large circle blade.
If you cannot find anyone in your area I can put you in touch. He charged $52 to replace all the teeth and hammer for tension, and it cuts great. He actually put on teeth which are a little narrower, and I now get no bounce when vertical cutting 8 in. in hardwood.
I wrap mine in cardboard for shipping UPS.
Frank 
Lucas dedicated slabber
Woodmizer LT40HD
John Deere 5310 W/ FEL
Semper Fi

JohnM

Quote from: dgdrls on July 06, 2013, 10:52:11 PM
No, not loctite in the sense of thread locker, anti-seize resists moisture and thread galling.  Usually silver colored and labeled as such.
It is produced under the loctite, permatex and other brand labels.

DGD

Yeah that's what I was thinking, DGD, I'm familiar with the anti-seize stuff but have never used it.  Loctite makes so many products now saying 'Loctite' doesn't mean what it used to mean. :)
Quote from: Seaman on July 07, 2013, 07:34:13 AM
John, we have a good on here who is familuar with lucas blades. SPD Lee also used him for a large circle blade.
If you cannot find anyone in your area I can put you in touch. He charged $52 to replace all the teeth and hammer for tension, and it cuts great. He actually put on teeth which are a little narrower, and I now get no bounce when vertical cutting 8 in. in hardwood.
I wrap mine in cardboard for shipping UPS.
Frank 
I'll look local first but thank you for the heads up Frank.  Hoping I won't have to send it off to NC! :o :D
Lucas 830 w/ slabber; Kubota L3710; Wallenstein logging winch; Split-fire splitter; Stihl 036; Jonsered 2150

terrifictimbersllc

Sharp Tool Co in Hudson, Ma does a good job with my Peterson 6 tooth blades, about $55 I think for complete re-tip /flatness check-adjustment.  But you got UPS on top of that.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

JohnM

Well this is getting annoying...

 
Blade number two down.  BTW I did find a local place to retip my blades, Quality Saw and Supply, West Enfield, ME.  I'm waiting to get the first one back before I send this one.  I'm really hoping they know what they're doing, mostly because it would make life easier but also they said it would only be $40.  And all I have to do is drop off/pick up at Peavey Mfg 7 miles down the road not the hour drive to Enfield. 8)

The ants can finish their work with the log.  Just rolled into the woods, I'm done with it! >:(   

  Researching metal detectors now. :(

Did manage to finish one project at least.  My wife has been wanting a garden sink for quite awhile.  The sink can be pulled out and drop the top on for surface area if need be.  I'll hook a real faucet to it some day. ::)

  

 

Here's to a good saw doc and no more *&%^%#@ screws! smiley_beertoast  I hope...

JM
Lucas 830 w/ slabber; Kubota L3710; Wallenstein logging winch; Split-fire splitter; Stihl 036; Jonsered 2150

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