Chainsaw chain grinder help

[doc henderson]

mine stays the same for all chain, but the grinding wheel thickness changes.  the above for most all other than ripping chain.  I hope this helps.  I once got aggressive on the rakers, and it cut fast, but a little too aggressive.  I bet the number listed will be somewhat of a sweet spot.  if you find something better far from there, you should get a job with a major manufacturer, as they have prob. tried it all.

[slice107]

mine stays the same for all chain, but the grinding wheel thickness changes.  the above for most all other than ripping chain.  I hope this helps.  I once got aggressive on the rakers, and it cut fast, but a little too aggressive.  I bet the number listed will be somewhat of a sweet spot.  if you find something better far from there, you should get a job with a major manufacturer, as they have prob. tried it all.

Yea I don't mess with raker height. I set it with my progressive gauge and roll with it. If I go lower it gets to chattery and more it doesn't cut. My rakers are at a sweet spot. But I don't know if that will change with the grinder since all teeth are set same it might get rid of some chatter. I find it interesting that you can leave your settings alone and still have good cutting chains from type to type. 

I was talking to my GF about this. She says I'm too picky. But my back gets to sore running dull saws lol. I understand everyone's wood is different. And there saws are different and everyone likes a different chain.

[doc henderson]

I hope you can see what I meant by the settings.  An old Amish guy named Mel that owned the Stihl dealership taught me this.  that is how they sharpened all chains professionally.  and to just bump the chain a few times with the grinder rather than grind it blue.  i rarely mess with rakers and in this one instance, a little did not seem like much.  It was uncomfortably aggressive.  they usually wear enough to keep them close to what you need.  the Stihl tooth has a mild slope as it wears back.

[khntr85]

mine stays the same for all chain, but the grinding wheel thickness changes.  the above for most all other than ripping chain.  I hope this helps.  I once got aggressive on the rakers, and it cut fast, but a little too aggressive.  I bet the number listed will be somewhat of a sweet spot.  if you find something better far from there, you should get a job with a major manufacturer, as they have prob. tried it all.

Have they tried them all, or do they just play it safe so the average joe can get a decent cutting chain???

  We have to remember most people don't put in near the effort or thought about chains as we do....i used to sharpen the "publics" chains, talk about unbelievable it's no wonder I used to get burnt up saws I rebuilt and sold lol....

  Yes the angles the give are ok, but multiple things come into play as you know...how the wheel is profiled, how shallow/deep you grind, etc...

 You will get good chains but it just takes some getting used to OP...

 Oh and I have a stihl usg and Oregon 520 side by side...if you only have one brand, don't even try to understand the others numbers the 2-grinders are set up ass bakerds lol..

[slice107]

thanks. the last chain i did i set head to 50 and its way to agressive. i also used an oregon brand wheel. its a tad bigger then the tecomec brand i was using before. still waiting on the cbn to show up.

all those chains that i thought would cut from a few posts back do cut but none of them cut great like i figured. once the cbn wheel comes ill do more playing around.

[Keepfixin]

So I've found that 25°- 50°- 0° is working pretty good at the moment with green frozen and hard dry wood here in Alaska. But I'm still experimenting with different combinations. Right now I have shaped an Oregon 1/4" raker wheel for my Tecomec and its the best wheel yet. I dress it every 4-5 chains instead of 1-2 times a chain because the oil on the chain clogs the wheel. My grinder is outside so a cold oil residue really doesn't agree with the wheel! I also bring the wheel radius to the tooth side profile shape for a chisel look.

[Keepfixin]

Hopefully a picture will come through.

[maple flats]

I'm not familiar with your grinder, I only have experience with a Maxx grinder. My only comment it that you are grinding far too much off. I set mine so it barely touches the tooth, and I make 1 medium speed stroke down and back up, then move on the the next tooth. Every tooth should be the same, don't adjust from tooth to tooth. If you follow that method, your second sharpening will be faster and every one after.
The first video you showed you were grinding way way too much, and taking too long to do it, that will ruin the temper of the tooth, it generates heat and heat ruins the chain. 
Have your settings, for angle, depth of cut, and length of the tooth set so your shortest tooth gets barely kissed with the wheel, then do every tooth with no changes. Never do like your first video, just one smooth stroke down and up, the speed of the wheel should barely slow down, never so you feel the need to let up on the grind to let the wheel get back up to speed. That practice is what heats the edge up .

[Ben Cut-wright]

My only comment it that you are grinding far too much off. I set mine so it barely touches the tooth, and I make 1 medium speed stroke down and back up, then move on the the next tooth. Every tooth should be the same, don't adjust from tooth to tooth. If you follow that method, your second sharpening will be faster and every one after.
The first video you showed you were grinding way way too much, and taking too long to do it, that will ruin the temper of the tooth, it generates heat and heat ruins the chain.
Have your settings, for angle, depth of cut, and length of the tooth set so your shortest tooth gets barely kissed with the wheel, then do every tooth with no changes. Never do like your first video, just one smooth stroke down and up, the speed of the wheel should barely slow down, never so you feel the need to let up on the grind to let the wheel get back up to speed. That practice is what heats the edge up .

Good explanation.  I'd like to make a couple points to explain how I use the grinder to sharpen.

The rate the grinder is moved into and out of the tooth is critical as well as the amount of grind.  Chainsaw grinders would be better thought of as powered whetstones. Don't hog the grind. Machine shop work has taught me that "spark-out" is the only way to ensure all cutters are sharpened equally and achieve better surface. 

Setting for the "Shortest tooth first" will demand partial grinding of the longer teeth if done at the first pass.  This can be done by repeated trips around the chain and multiple dips of the stone.  My preferred method is to mark the shortest tooth, begin grinding the longer cutters, sharpening is complete after the shortest tooth is sharpened.  In other words, grinding the entire profile on as many cutters as possible every pass.  Adjust only the cutter stop after each pass until the shortest tooth sparks-out and the chain is done.