i need to run another zone , looking for someone to walk me through the process

adamant · December 01, 2015, 09:05:56 AM

I have a Central Boiler 60 48. I need to add another zone. I am looking for someone who can walk me through the process this is knowledgeable.
Here's a picture of the side panel

beenthere · December 01, 2015, 11:29:33 AM

adamant
That pic isn't the one from your gallery that shows up very large. Maybe switch it out for one of the others. Just modify your post to do that.

LittleJohn · December 01, 2015, 11:57:43 AM

**I assume that you mean LOOP, not zone to CB6048!!!
Since you do not have shut off valves on the other bungs of the boiler, you will have to shut down your boiler, drain the water and add additional loop.

To avoid this on my old mans eClassic 3200, I had him put street elbows and valves on the 1.25" set of bungs on his boiler. He used stove to heat detached pole barn for a year before he had house build. When we went to activate the house, all we had to do was hook up the pipe and flip the switched.

IF YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT ADDING A ZONE, I would just cut in a couple of tees and put in a Zone valve and maybe a pump. ...but this all depends on what you got going on already for a radiant system

thecfarm · December 01, 2015, 11:59:17 AM

Here's the back of my Heatmor. Must be just about the same.

I have a spare something as you can see. I was planing for a working garage,but don't look like it now.
I had my done by someone that knew what they was doing. So not much help,but I have a picture.

adamant · December 01, 2015, 02:27:28 PM

Quote from: LittleJohn on December 01, 2015, 11:57:43 AM
**I assume that you mean LOOP, not zone to CB6048!!!
Since you do not have shut off valves on the other bungs of the boiler, you will have to shut down your boiler, drain the water and add additional loop.

To avoid this on my old mans eClassic 3200, I had him put street elbows and valves on the 1.25" set of bungs on his boiler. He used stove to heat detached pole barn for a year before he had house build. When we went to activate the house, all we had to do was hook up the pipe and flip the switched.

IF YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT ADDING A ZONE, I would just cut in a couple of tees and put in a Zone valve and maybe a pump. ...but this all depends on what you got going on already for a radiant system

Yes. Another loop. I want to heat my pole barn.what's t h e easiest way to drain some water out of my unit? And I guess I want to drain down to that pipe fitting this under that black cap that you can see in the picture? Also should I reuse that water again since its been treated?

r.man · December 01, 2015, 09:52:57 PM

Adamant, you don't need to drain your boiler but you should let it cool down some. Get the new fittings and valves ready and thread gooped, shut down the boiler electrics and pumps and close off the old valves. Check to see if the water level is below the bottom of the vent pipe and if it isn't drain off enough water so it is. Now adapt a shop vacuum hose to snugly fit the vent pipe. While the vacuum is on no amount of water should come out of the opened bung. I am not sure that no water will come out so you probably want gloves on and you should exercise reasonable caution. This is an old trick for replacing oil fuel tank valves without draining the tanks. I doubt the size of the hole will cause much water to leak, I have pulled hot water heater elements out of full tanks that are all valved off with very little leakage and the element hole is larger than 1 1/4 inches. The vacuum should take care of the majority of the potential leaking. Without a shop vacuum if the vent was taped shut the water should just glug out. Let us know what you end up doing.

LittleJohn · December 02, 2015, 12:01:13 PM

Quote from: r.man on December 01, 2015, 09:52:57 PM...you don't need to drain your boiler but you should let it cool down some...

In theory it should work, but I would try it with the upper bung first (less water to spill :D)

...but in the end you will still have to do a little work to your water, as you will be adding at least some fresh water to the mix and need to get all the chemicals and what not back in line.

r.man · December 02, 2015, 10:33:41 PM

I think that I could swap each bung for a valve and elbow and only spill a gallon a piece, maybe less, with just the sealed vent. With the vacuum you might not spill any. I am tempted to try mine to see and if I can spare the time in the next few days I will. I have a large tall Empyre pro that has an extra set of bungs. I am in a good position to experiment since mine has no chemicals in it and the days are fairly warm right now.

LittleJohn · December 03, 2015, 08:11:51 AM

Also for what its worth, I like to put my pump in the structure (I know just another arguement point)

Adamant, make sure you get the correct bypass valve from Central for you install and GOOD LUCK!!!