Chainsaw or Bandsaw milling

[BarnSmokeStudio]

Looking for some advice on outsourcing the milling of several Eastern Black Walnut logs I picked up over the weekend.

These are the nicest ones I have had so far and would be a bit over whelming to chainsaw mill them all 10 of them.  I'm in Baltimore County, Maryland and I am thinking of either having a sawyer come on site or take them to a mill for processing.  

My concern is that these are pretty large logs and I don't have any equipment at home to move these around efficiently.  For those of you that do onsite milling, how do you get the logs into position when the client does not have heavy equipment?  

If I were to take them to a mill for processing any recommendations for log haulers?  I have a 6x12 trailer that I used to get the logs home, but not a way to load them at home.



 

 

 

 



 

 
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[blackhawk]

I have a Lucas mill and no heavy equipment.  I move logs with my Logrite mega cant hook or use my 12,000 lb winch on my truck.  On huge logs, I can just setup the Lucas around the log and don't even have to move the log.  Moving those logs in your picture around shouldn't be a problem for someone with a good cant hook and winch.  Your grass may take a little beating though.

[beenthere]

Good potential in those walnut pieces.

Too bad that you dumped them off your trailer before finding a mill to cut them up.

Rigging up a winch in your dump trailer should work to load a few at a time when you find a mill.

[BarnSmokeStudio]

Building a log arch for the trailer is up next on my project list.  I had to make two trips to get the logs so I needed to dump them in the yard.  

[doc henderson]

Looks like you have some skills and nice tools, based on the dovetail on the dunnage and the T square.  I would true up the ends, and coat with at least pain, and even better some wax emulsion like anchorseal.  that will buy you some time.  looks like some split on the end of one, and some are not yet logs, by @YellowHammer definition.  (have to be able to roll).  Chainsaw mill would create some waste and be tough if you are over 22 years old.

[doc henderson]

your handle (maybe) implies you may make rustic crafts or furniture items.  how old are you, and what are your plans for the wood.  

[charles mann]

If you find a sawyer, just put a winch on the front of the dump and winch them into the bed and move them like that

[WV Sawmiller]

For those of you that do onsite milling, how do you get the logs into position when the client does not have heavy equipment?  

   I am probably more tolerant about such than many millers who require the logs to be perfectly aligned and ready to saw before they get there. Since you dropped them from your dump trailer I assume the ground is hard enough and dry enough I could drive or back my trailer mounted mill in close to them. The stack with 5 logs I assume I would be able to back up beside them and roll them on to my mill with a cant hook or use my Magic Hook and the hydraulics on my mill. 

   In some cases I have had to move the mill a couple of times to get to different stacks of logs when it was easier to move the mill than a big or bunch of logs. We have used the customers lawn mower, tractor, ATV/UTV or truck to move them. In some cases we had to roll them up on a pivot log and spin them toward the mill then roll them with a cant hook or Magic Hook if the distance was not excessive. 

   Some in the pictures would need further bucking to fit my mill and as Yellowhammer says "If it won't roll, its not a log - its still a tree. Mills saw logs not trees". You might need to be sure to get someone with a wide mill or a slabber mill to saw the really big ones and if you canted to save that crotch wood on that big one.

   Good luck and keep us posted on what you do with them.

[BarnSmokeStudio]

your handle (maybe) implies you may make rustic crafts or furniture items.  how old are you, and what are your plans for the wood.  

I'm north of 50 so I prefer to use machines and not my back so much anymore.  I used my chainsaw mill to slab the last walnut tree so I have about 10 good slabs from that.   Most of the logs (trees ) are 12 feet in length, and 2 or 3 have about 22 inches of heartwood.  
I just build tables and such for family and friends as a break from writing software all day on my computer .   Would the larger logs be better for boards instead of slabs, open to options on what makes a log better for slabs vs. boards.  Just looking at building up my stock for other types of projects.
 
I could drag the logs around the yard with my truck to staging them for a sawyer but would need to work out a plan so I only move them once.

[doc henderson]

sounds good.  band mill would be less kerf waste.  i think the branchy parts of the "log will make the best slabs, as they will distort, twist, crack where the knots and the most character is.  you can leave extra thickness for machining after dry.  the straight grained stuff, (min. branches) will make the best boards, 4/4 or 5/4.  they look solid but for the split.  You should end seal and then you will have time to decide the most likely need you will have.  quarter sawn does not add to the look but might be more stable.  again, it matters what the use will be.  the crappiest chunks of tree trunks (logs) I have ever mill dried crazy but had the greatest character.  great for rustic or charcuterie boards ect.  small gifts and such things.

 

above is walnut plaque.  below is cottonwood with little character for a topographical map.



 



above is a maple pic of a bridge we built in Colorado.  below is a laser engraved pic of the USS O'Brian DD725 for a benefit auction.  the character of the wood adds to the art in my opinion, looks like waves.

 

 

 

the above was little chunks of walnut.  was not burned in the stove only because it was on the bottom of a stack of walnut slabs.  It was a little log that was log splitter size.  we got 8 bucks a board foot by a guy that was looking for just that.  the desk was made for his grandson who welded up the base.  took two cases (480 bucks) of wine on trade.  below is red elm.



 

 

above is soft maple.  below is K-State pussy cat on Ash.  Yes I went to KU.





lots of character.  would not have given two cents for the logs on first inspection.

[BarnSmokeStudio]

Sealed them with Anchorseal over the weekend and working on debarking them now.



 

[doc henderson]

debarking will get rid of a bug sanctuary, but also let them dry and poss. check.  what do the rest of you think?  bark will fall off easily later.  logs cut in summer; bark will not stay on.  it will help keep them clean for milling.  end seal looks good.  for a ragged end, i trim them up so the cut boards do not stab folks.      

[YellowHammer]

I certainly would not debark unless there is a pressing reason.  The bark serves as a moisture block and slows the cracking of the sapwood while in log or slab.  

Since crotches and forks aren't logs, they are best cut for slabs and novelty pieces, however straight clear logs are best for lumber.  

Some of those logs are nice, bit a few are showing significant stress so wouldn't make good flat lumber unless the stress can be removed while sawing or drying.

[burdman_22]

If you'd like you can hit me up via text. I've got some ideas and am sort of local to you (I live on ft meade). Send me a dm and I'll give you my phone number.