Stihl 261 bar length

[bates]

Saw came with 18 inch bar.  Wondering how long a bar can this saw handle? Sales guy said 20 inches.  Maybe he is right?

[colincb183]

I think they're supposed to be able to handle up to 20". Mine has a 16" but I think it would run a 20" easy with a sharp chain, wouldn't go any longer though

[jdonovan]

Sthil says 16-20" is the range for this model.

Now if you were only running in soft woods, and were willing to accept reduced performance you might be able to run a longer bar. But I know how much a 461 can be lugged down if you push on a 24" fully into a oak, there is no way I'd be happy running a 24" on a saw with nearly 50% less power.

Or if you were using it just for smaller wood, but wanted to avoid leaning over as much when limbing it might work out ok.

[thecfarm]

Seem like an 18 inch bar is the norm. I have a 152 Efco with a 18 inch bar.  : If I use the whole 18 it does not like it,at all.
Longer bars cost more,as does the chain,takes longer to sharpen too.

[John Mc]

I've not used a 261. Can the oiler keep up with a bar longer than 20"?

Personally, if it's just for better reach, I prefer to just step closer or squat down a bit to get that reach, rather than use a long bar. Using a long bar for reach is generally a false economy. Yes, it means fewer steps and less bending, but that generally leads to poor body mechanics, which is less safe and wears you out more quickly: If you are cutting out in the end of a long bar, you are basically working at the wrong end of a long lever. (My wife is a Physical Therapist, and is always on me about that.) It's also more weight to carry around, and cumbersome in tight spaces. I'd rather use the shorter bar, and cut from two sides on the infrequent occasions that I need it.

On the other hand, if you are cutting big wood, sometimes a longer bar is the best alternative. However, if you are cutting a significant amount of larger wood, you should probably consider stepping up to a bigger saw (especially if cutting hardwoods). The balance is better, the oiler is designed to keep up, and it doesn't take as much patience. I imagine burying your 18" bar in Oak or Beech already takes some patience, even with a freshly sharpened chain.

[s grinder]

I have a 261 with a 16"bar and use it for firewood as my small saw.It has great balance and plenty of power but couldn't imagine sinking it into red or white oak with a 20" bar.

[rapovt]

I have a 260 and a 261 and a 361. Only use 16" bars....they spin the chain faster

[sawguy21]

20" is the longest bar available for the .325 chain on the 261 and is the realistic limit. I have seen a .325 tip on a 260 equipped with a 24" but the operator complained about it bogging in softwood.

[bates]

Thanks for the replies.  My big wood is white pine that gets cut as it dies off.  I don't think the money would be worth 2" in bar length?  Used to have an old Lombard with 24" bar, but no vibration isolators.  No wonder I have carpel tunnel issues....

[DelawhereJoe]

On my 026 I just run a 16" bar to limb oaks and maples or to fell small gum trees, if it's over 3/4 of the bar I use a bigger saw. Theres no replacement for displacement.

[gspren]

   The 16" on my 261 feels "right" although maybe an 18" would also. When I need a 20-24" I grab my 044 which feels best with the 20 but handles the 24 OK. Mostly all hardwoods.

[Greyhound]

If I were you, I'd stay with the 18" bar.  I have run a 20", 0.325 B&C and it will work, but it's definitely not the sweet spot (16" or 18").  I currently run mine with 16", 3/8th B&C.  It works very well, but then again I have an MS361 that wears wears a 20" and an MS461 that can wear a 20, 24 or 32" bar, and a little Jred CS2139T with a 12".

[WoodBurner19]

Sorry if I'm late on this but I run a MS 270 with an 18" bar that rips. It could handle a 20" but thats at max. I would go to a bigger saw for the 20".

[SawTroll]

I've not used a 261. Can the oiler keep up with a bar longer than 20"?

Personally, if it's just for better reach, I prefer to just step closer or squat down a bit to get that reach, rather than use a long bar. Using a long bar for reach is generally a false economy. Yes, it means fewer steps and less bending, but that generally leads to poor body mechanics, which is less safe and wears you out more quickly: If you are cutting out in the end of a long bar, you are basically working at the wrong end of a long lever. (My wife is a Physical Therapist, and is always on me about that.) It's also more weight to carry around, and cumbersome in tight spaces. I'd rather use the shorter bar, and cut from two sides on the infrequent occasions that I need it.

On the other hand, if you are cutting big wood, sometimes a longer bar is the best alternative. However, if you are cutting a significant amount of larger wood, you should probably consider stepping up to a bigger saw (especially if cutting hardwoods). The balance is better, the oiler is designed to keep up, and it doesn't take as much patience. I imagine burying your 18" bar in Oak or Beech already takes some patience, even with a freshly sharpened chain.

Where's the "like" button on this forum?