What size trailer for the tractor?

[livemusic]

The tractor I wrote about recently, a Mahindra 5010, a 49 hp, with FEL and Woods brand bushhog... the deal was getting squirrelly and I was actually within an inch of giving up... it came together and I now own it! After years of looking, lol. I used it today clipping a pasture, or should I say weed jungle. It is the thickest mess I have ever seen and I'm not exaggerating. Majority is tall, thick goldenrod but the lower land is the thickest tangle ever! You cannot walk through it and a buddy had a strong side-by-side UTV and could not penetrate it! Happy to report that this rig goes right through it. And quite a number of 1-3 inch saplings. I got done what had to be done this afternoon (the part that HAD to be clipped) but I might go ahead and try to get all of it, including the lowland because a big rain is coming Saturday and this time of year, once it starts, it may not end for weeks/months!

Yes, I had to stop every hour to hour and a half and blow out the goldenrod mess from the radiator. I guess it gets in there from underneath, it is not coming in from the front.

So, I have been wanting a larger utility trailer to haul firewood and now I need one for the tractor rig. I prefer to keep it 83 inches width or less. How long? Tandem axle, yes, what about brakes? I sure hope I can find one with the lights made into the rear frame. I do not like lights that hang off the sides. I am forever banging my shins. Or a tree/limb/root smashes it. Problem is, I have only found this feature on more expensive trailers. Which I might have to buy, ugh. I certainly won't buy anything low end but I tend to think that some of the high-end trailers cost too much, lol.

Long enough to move the whole rig together. (EDIT:  Meaning tractor + FEL + cutter.) I'm guessing I will need 18-20 ft but I forgot to measure the rig before dark.

BTW, I only have a 1/2 ton, Nissan Titan, v8. Want to buy a 3/4 ton but you know how that goes, might take awhile.

[Southside]

Congrats on getting the tractor and putting it to work - that must feel good.  So your tractor with the FEL and mower on the back probably weighs in the 6,000 - 7,000 lb range is my guess, so you will need a trailer that can legally transport that load.  Once you allow for the weight of the trailer itself I suspect you are in the 8,000 - 10,000 lb gross weight range of the loaded trailer.  Can your truck to that without having any issues?  Are there any registration issues when you get above XXX weight in Louisiana with a pickup? I ask because I have seen it where a huge SUV is legal with a trailer that size on a passenger care plate, but a pickup would need to have a commercial tag with the appropriate weight class paid for - makes absolutely zero sense, but made the state plenty of dollars.  

Absolutely need trailer brakes on all axles, and a break away break.  Remove the break away key from the housing on the trailer and put a bunch of dielectric grease on it before re-installing it.  Pull it in and out several times so the springs are well lubricated.  One day you will need to remove it for some reason and the last thing you need is for it to be stuck solid.  Also - don't loop it into the safety chain, hook it directly, with it's on latch, onto the "frame" of your truck, which also includes the receiver portion of the hitch, but not the stinger. Spring suspension will be cheaper than torsion axles most of the time and will do fine for what you are doing.  Pickup six, rated chains and binders.  DOT requires loads to be bound at each corner, and each implement, so four tires, the FEL and the mower are bound down.  You may not be DOT enforceable, but the last thing you want is for some aggressive DOT cop to pull you and write you for an unsecured load.  One thing to not skimp on is tires.  Personally, I run "G" rated - 14 ply trailer tires on all of my trailers.  Yup, they cost more, but I have never, never, had one fail, and I have had some last 100,000 miles on a gooseneck trailer, they are worth the money.  Run the max pressure on your trailer tires.  They get hot, and when down on air pressure get hotter, faster, then they blow out.  Been there, done that, in the pre G days - it's so much fun. Lights can always be moved if you find the right trailer at the right price.  

[rusticretreater]

The weight of the Mahindra tractor is 3836 to 4078 pounds(sans FEL) and your Nissan is rated at 9,000 pounds.  So tractor w/FEL plus trailer weight should be well under the max towing rating.  The Mahinda tractor is just over 11 feet long without the FEL, so 16-18 feet is about right.  Big Tex also has an 83 inch wide 16 foot long equipment hauler.

I have modified my Big Tex 17' Car Hauler(rated at 7,000 lbs) to also be a logging trailer.  I don't know how they think it would be safe to be max loaded on the tires that came with the trailer.  I ended up replacing the tires with Maxxis ST Radials - just under $100 each.  Maxxis are highly rated and have a much stiffer sidewall.

As SouthSide said, for the weight you are considering using brakes on both axles would be necessary.  This is usually an upgrade option.  You can also buy kits if the trailer you end up with has them only on one axle.  I use a Tekonsha P3 brake controller which is also well thought of.  

[livemusic]

The weight of the Mahindra tractor is 3836 to 4078 pounds(sans FEL) and your Nissan is rated at 9,000 pounds.  So tractor w/FEL plus trailer weight should be well under the max towing rating.  The Mahinda tractor is just over 11 feet long without the FEL, so 16-18 feet is about right.  Big Tex also has an 83 inch wide 16 foot long equipment hauler.

I have modified my Big Tex 17' Car Hauler(rated at 7,000 lbs) to also be a logging trailer.  I don't know how they think it would be safe to be max loaded on the tires that came with the trailer.  I ended up replacing the tires with Maxxis ST Radials - just under $100 each.  Maxxis are highly rated and have a much stiffer sidewall.

As SouthSide said, for the weight you are considering using brakes on both axles would be necessary.  This is usually an upgrade option.  You can also buy kits if the trailer you end up with has them only on one axle.  I use a Tekonsha P3 brake controller which is also well thought of.  

Thanks for your info, good stuff. But by "whole rig," I meant tractor, FEL, and the cutter.

[DMcCoy]

I would oversize the trailer in case you might purchase and haul heavier attachments down the line.
I have a P3 trailer brake controller and really like it because it's easy to adjust which you will do every time between empty and loaded.  Oregon now requires a trailer sway bar, not sure about your state.
Like everyone else - buy good tires.
Above 10,000 lbs combined is DOT if commercial.  DOT numbers are free but I have to pass an annual physical.  Interstate hauling also has a fee I think it was $76 a year for 2022 for us, but it varies.   We are on the small side of the trucking industry.

[EricR]

You should consider what the tractor could weigh as in if you load the tires.  There are charts online that will tell you how much they could weigh.  Also, when trailering with the mower the tractor may end up closer to the front of the trailer then ideal.  ( if you worried about it I think rear overhang is 4').  This could possibly make a 1/2 ton squat pretty good

[TroyC]

My TYM is about your size. I sold a 394 to my buddy. He bought a 16' trailer to haul the 394. TO SMALL!! It barely fit with no attachments. Tires were maxed at full pressure and squashed.

My T474 is about your size and weight. I use a 24' implement trailer, 14K axles, brakes on 4 wheels. Brakes are required and necessary! Works perfect. Will fit on trailer with loader and bushog, has enough room to move for good balance and tongue weight. I pull with a GMC 1500 and weight is at the top end for towing. I put range E/F tires on it, have bubbled several of the D range 16" tires. I back the tractor on and adjust tongue weight by positioning tractor forward or back while watching tongue load. My trailer has axles sort of to the rear. Trailers with axles more centered are more likely to fishtail. That will really get your attention!

I was gonna fill my tires, got all excited and all when I got the rig. Glad I didn't fill them, don't need it for what I do. That's a lot of extra weight to trailer and I tow about 1500 miles/yr.

I'd not go less than 20' on the trailer. Sooner or later you are gonna want to throw something else on with the tractor and hog, too short on trailer and you are gonna make 2 trips.

You remember the old saying, ' better to have it and not need it.....'  ;D

[Dom]

Happy to hear that the tractor is a doing what you wanted! 

I opt to rent my equipment trailer as I don't move my tractor too often. Trailer costs less than $200 (CAD) a day. I don't have to worry about maintenance, or licensing the trailer. 

I do have a dump trailer that I use for split firewood and hauling small gear around. My dump trailer has folding sides and is really a AG trailer that has been adapted for the road. Made by Normand and Pronovost. The trailer spends more time behind the tractor then on the road.

Just thought I would mention that you may want to rent for a bit to see what you really need. Always seems that a different size trailer is needed depending on the load and truck.

[mike_belben]

Look for a 10k equipment trailer with 8 lug axles and 17.5" rims.  With foldup dropleg leg ramps than cant be stolen.  Single jack is fine but it needs to be a big square tube with a big square footplate and a telescopic pin extension leg so you only crank a few inches. 

i would prefer a pintle deckover with beavertail personally but that might be too heavy or tall for your truck.  Its great not to have fenders or have to carry your ramps.  You can parbuckle logs on from the side that are too heavy to pick. And roll them off the side just as easy.  I need beefy stake pockets and rub rail down the whole side.  3" C channel with a chunk of rebar welded for stopper makes drop in log bunks.  I cut old school pallet rack channels in half for this.  


Deckover lights are always pierced flush in the rear channel.  Use generic rubber grommets, lights and plugs from the truckstop.  Cheap, plentiful near any interstate and tool free swap.

[btulloh]

Renting a couple would go a long way to answering the questions. Good suggestion. 

You need at least a 20 ft flatbed. 10k lbs. that would dictate brakes on both axles. 

A load leveling hitch will be a huge benefit when using that combo with a 1/2 ton pickup. They make a huge difference in handling. 

[chevytaHOE5674]

How far and how often are you moving the tractor? My farms are within 15 miles of one another and rarely use a trailer for moving a tractor. By the time you load up, chain down, drive, unchain, unload, etc you can just drive the tractor and be on your way.

[kantuckid]

As I read on-road use for a tractor rig, means only an equipment trailer. Thats not a utility trailer for starters but certainly will haul firewood I suppose. Aside from your nice tractor, exactly what for, where and how will you need a trailer? How often is the larger question and gross weight and overall length of the "rig"?

My utility trailer for firewood is a 5x10 Gatormade tilt bed trailer, that's also roadworthy, but smallish for anything besides my scoot or MC, firewood or a machine tool, lumber or mower.
I use it hard and often at times, then it sits. Bigger equipment or vehicle style trailers I'll rent cheaply (access to rentals matters if often hauled) when needed as much more logical vs. too much money sitting around deteriorating and needs a tag while my utility needs none nor a title either. It also matters if you'll haul for maintenance that mine never travels for-if your does so. Many new, especially first-time tractor people haul them for oil changes and much more-if thats you buy a trailer. Thats why they offer pkg deals a lot nowadays.  
A hay wagon gear can be a great trailer for certain uses. I bought an oldie but a good basic one and rehabbed the running gear wheel bearings and painted it- but not added wood top as yet. They most all have variable frame lengths built into them. It will become my materials hauler behind my tractor for the 1/2 mile trudge up to a build site. Lumber and wall logs don't traverse woods roads well sideways on my FEL forks. Can also  sub for other uses and very easy to resell later at a profit.  
FB Marketplace for used trailers. CL for less items, but still some.

[TroyC]

 


This is the T394 on a 16' trailer. No room to move for balancing or carry other stuff. Tires at max capacity. Could not back it on as it would overload tongue weight. The guy pulling it said he had white knuckles.




This is the 24' 14K trailer with tractor and a load of cedar logs on the front. No bushog this trip but the three cedars were 9' long. Don't cheat yourself on the trailer!

I agree, a deck over would be nice. Taller, but nice. More expensive, but nice.

[livemusic]

How far and how often are you moving the tractor? My farms are within 15 miles of one another and rarely use a trailer for moving a tractor. By the time you load up, chain down, drive, unchain, unload, etc you can just drive the tractor and be on your way.

Yes, this is an option I have def considered because the move to my woodlot and pasture is only six miles but it is a state highway, there are no backroads I could take. But I could get on shoulder with traffic coming. Speaking of that, my tractor does not have a mirror, lol. I guess we never had a mirror when I was working on the farm either. But, sure would be handy when traveling on road. And also, I can't turn around like I did as a youngster.

A reason for getting a big trailer is that I need a bigger trailer for firewood anyway. I have three trailers but they are all small single axle. And if I had a big trailer, I could haul my tractor to places and more distant places that I would not otherwise go. Plus, be legal to deliver firewood in the city.

Def need a 3/4 ton 4wd or a 1-ton

[thecfarm]

I use to haul my 40hp tractor with a ¾ ton truck. Never once felt like it was unsafe. But I only hauled it about 10 miles. Never 50 mph, more like 45.

[kantuckid]

My newish tractor is a 2021 Branson 4820R with FEL and ballast in tires, close to 6,000#'s overall.  I hauled it easily from MO home to KY on a heavy all steel equipment trailer using my F-150 Screw truck. That trailer from Sunbelt Rentals had a neat hydraulic tilt system not so common as ramps in pockets or tilt ramps and others styles. It separated toward the front at a floor split and handy dandy trailer for a pull behind.
 It's all about your needs and how deep the pockets might be. I doubt the larger truck is as important as which trailer for that size tractor? 

[chevytaHOE5674]

I live on and drive farm equipment on the state highway almost daily. Drive down the lane and let traffic yield to you. More accidents happen when equipment is on the shoulder as vehicles think they can fit and pass when oncoming traffic is present when they shouldn't or won't fit.

If a 3/4 ton truck is in your future I would get a deck over trailer either with a dovetail or a hydraulic tilt deck. Having a flat deck with no fenders to work around is super nice. Loading things with the tractor there's no tires or fenders to smash into. Pallets and logs are easy to load with forks, etc.

[scsmith42]

Lots of good advice from others in this thread. What I would add is that you should seriously consider a gooseneck trailer.

Towing a gooseneck trailer with a 1/2 ton truck is almost the same a pulling a bumper pull with a 3/4 ton. Placing the tongue load directly over the rear axle significantly improves tow vehicle handling and brake performance.