Building my dream Shop

[Jay C. White Cloud]

Hey Geeg,

Out standing progress... 8) 

I would say it is a the "cut-in," work that jacked the price up.  Most painters are in the $3 to $5 for average paint job per square foot, but you can double that for lots of "cut-in," time.  Do you know how many ft² of paint surface you have?

Regards,

jay

[Geeg]

Thanks Guys,

Jay, the area measured is 5,600 sq/feet @ $2.50/ft for the higher price. Yes there is a lot of cutting since you can't just use masking tape, it will all have to be hand cut but wow, would have to take out a mortgage to pay for that. Good thing I still have a mighty steady hand, good eyes and I am not afraid of heights ;D

[Jay C. White Cloud]

Hi Geeg,

I figured about that, price is actually reasonable, for a skilled painter.  I'm sure you know this, but a cut in knife-guard will make the painting around beam much easier.

Good Luck,

jay 

[Geeg]

Hi Geeg,

I figured about that, price is actually reasonable, for a skilled painter.  I'm sure you know this, but a cut in knife-guard will make the painting around beam much easier.

Good Luck,

jay

Hi Jay,

You have a line on a cut in knife-guard? if so please share as you see, I have lots of work to do  :(, thought those things didn't work to well especially around beams?

Cheers
Geeg

[bigshow]

Wow!  that is really something else.

[Jay C. White Cloud]

Hi Geeg,

I wish I could show you, it's hard to explain, my mom made most of her's and had hundreds for each specific applicaitons.  I can cover the highlights and maybe you could find a good old local painter with "made skill," to really show you the details of the technique.  Once mastered, you can move really fast.  Its a mix of blocking with the guard and free hand cut in, both.

The guard protects the timber from getting paint on it, but have "wipe rages", detail sander/steel wool close at hand, as you move along.

When painting against a guard, a dryer brush is best, or you risk the chance of capillary effect sucking paint behind the guard.

Take your time to make good corner guards, or you will have to cut this area in by hand.

One person does the cut-in/edge work will somebody else does the field work.  The reason for this is simple, you do a better job if for the extent of the work your muscle memory is tuned to the "finer motor work," not large stroke field work.

Use "props," whenever you can, it saves you muscle strain, fatigue, and makes the work more enjoyable.

I would, for sake of speed, use the same oil wash, (Land Ark,) on the beams and a coat on the walls.  Yes it will darken you color scheme, but if you plan on applying a finish coat of oil on the beams, it is nearly impossible to keep it off the walls. It also give a very nice aged patina.

Small (expensive,) natural hair brushes (like sable,) will make the work easier.  Some folk like the sponge method as well.  Try both and do some practice work where it doesn't show much or on a "mock up."

One coat for cut in, two coats (three is better,) for the field work for good color depth.

Those are the highlights, let me know if I can help further.

Regards,

jay

[Geeg]

Thanks Jay,

I think I understand now, unfortunately the wife cannot paint so I will be doing the cut-in/edge work and the field work. Should have some pics in about a year or two or three ;D, don't get much time there, only about 1.5 months a year and this year will be working on the original shop project but should be able to get at it on those rainy days.

Cheers,
Geeg

[Jim_Rogers]

Back in 2003, I was hired to saw some beam for a new addition going onto a very old house in Marblehead, MA.
Here is a shot of the last beams we put up:



 

These antique beams were not going to be stained. We had to install them without an new cuts showing.

The house was already built.

We had to cut the to the right depth with the sawmill and trim them perfectly to fit together to make them look like they had always been there.

To do this we installed pieces of plywood to the top side of the beams. These pieces of plywood were then screw to the ceiling joists. The ceiling was already strapped for sheet-rock. The plywood was the same thickness as the strapping so the finished ceiling was all the same level.
To protect these beams from getting "mud" on them from the sheet rock guys the general contractor had his helper staple sheets of plastic up tight to the side of the beam. He stapled the plastic into the plywood, and wrapped the plastic around the beam and covered them up. The plastic was held in place with tape. This covered these beams completely so that the guys could come in and hang the sheet rock, mud them, and paint.
I was told that after the painting was done they would take a razor knife and trim the plastic back at the point where the sheet rock met the beam. And if done correctly the plastic wouldn't show.
I searched my pictures of this job and can't find one with the plastic around a beam, but I did see the helper installing them the last day I was there.
I never did see the finished addition.

The kicker was after we had it all done, with no fresh cuts showing, to preserve the original color of the beams, the home owner decided these "brown" beams didn't match the color of the "black" beams in the other side of this house. And that they would be staining the new beams to match.
But then the plastic could be used to protect the sheet rock from the beam stain.

I'm telling this story so that in the future if someone is going to do something similar they could wrap the timbers with plastic and it could/may make things easier.

Jim Rogers

[Jay C. White Cloud]

Hey Jim,

That was beautiful work.  Your idea is perfect.  In Asia, often, after a frame is cut, the timbers are wrapped in paper.  The frame is put together only exposing the joints to be fitted.  Then after all the finish work is done, the last step is removing all the paper.  The would looks so fresh and clean!

Regards,

jay

[Geeg]

Thanks Jim and Jay, I really wish I had of thought of that out properly before the walls went up but that's hindsight for ya. Nice work there Jim.

Cheers
Geeg

[frwinks]

good to see you back at it ;)  Is that a soapstone stove?  We love our Hearthstone, wouldn't buy anything else. Very cool design and I bet that chimney drafts like a champ :D

Stay warm ;D

[Satamax]

good to see you back at it ;)  Is that a soapstone stove?  We love our Hearthstone, wouldn't buy anything else. Very cool design and I bet that chimney drafts like a champ :D

Stay warm ;D

Hi Frwinks.

Do you know about rocket stoves? Or rocket mass heaters?  ;D

[frwinks]

yup sure do. That's why I said buy not build :D  If I were to build a heater, yes the rocket heater concept is fantastic.  I'm a one man show so I have to choose my battles wisely :D  I have a lot of thermal mass in the house already, the soapstone is a great heat sink 8)

[Geeg]

good to see you back at it ;)  Is that a soapstone stove?  We love our Hearthstone, wouldn't buy anything else. Very cool design and I bet that chimney drafts like a champ :D

Stay warm ;D

Hi Frwinks, Ya still at it but going a little to slow for my liking. Our stove is a Bari Hearthstone soapstone, heats up to 1,400 sq. ft. puts out 35,000 BTUs and efficiency of 80% and the cool thing is it swivels 180 degrees. We ended up having to install the optional vent that goes through the basement and vents outside as the house is to air tight, it drafts quite nicely ;)

Heard you guys are having quite a cold winter and a little more snow than last year. Hows your place going?, am sure your keeping nice and warm.

Cheers,
Geeg

[Geeg]

So I am still at it, trying to finalize the shop drawings and finally got them back from the engineer and my contractor noticed 2x6 splines between all the SIP panels  :'( which would in effect cause thermal bridging which would defeat the whole purpose of using SIP's. It is a sad day when a SIP (Structural Insulated Panel) cannot hold up a building without being braced by 2x6's. I went back to my designer and told her that we needed to revamp the design using 2x6 stud walls with 2' SilveRboard Rigid Foam Insulation on the exterior. Just waiting for the new drawings that will then go back to the engineer to be stamped. Hey its only money? but the thing that bugs me is that the engineer doe not give a #$@! about anything other than if it will fall down and kill someone and he will be held liable, what about what it is that you are trying to accomplish with the building itself like energy efficiency?

Anyway here are the now old expensive drawings

[Jay C. White Cloud]

Sorry about that Geeg, I feel your plight.  They pass it off as being insignificant, which in the scoop of the walls R value compared to fenestration, I suppose it is.  However, if I am going to pay the price that the panel company wants, I don't want "any" thermal bridging, that's why we stopped using "stress skins" except maybe on the roof.  There are manufactures that don't have that spline like "Foard" but very expensive.  I have come not to care for the systems in general.  They maybe good in one aspect, fast for contractor construction, but don't make much since in the overall concept of "architectural disentanglement,"  they actually make other jobs way harder, (i.e. wiring, plumbing, modification/alteration, etc.) 

bugs me is that the engineer doe not give a #$@!

Not all PE are that way, that is why I recommend only PE that have done timber framing, and/or truly embrace and love the craft.  They are much more on top of things like this and would have never let this "bridging issue" take place, most likely they would have caught it in the design phase and asked you about it.  I am curious why didn't the person designing the system also didn't bring this up to you, that's there job?  Are they really going to charge you for the re-due the drawings, for things they should have asked about before going to final draft?  Look forward to the new drawings, and hope things go the way you need them to.

Regards,

jay

[beenthere]

that the engineer doe not give a #$@! about anything other than if it will fall down and kill someone and he will be held liable,

And an engineer that doesn't want to get sued, better be cognizant of that. Whether you lose more heat with the splines is not measurable so no liability.
Good luck getting over the hump. ;)

[witterbound]

Are the splines part of the sip design, or something extra required by your engineer?   The sips we used might have had 2x6s built into them at the sides...don't recall but seems like they did.

[Geeg]

Hi Jay, Here is a pic of the spline setup, it is missing the 1" sq void running down the center of the two panels that gets filled with foam after the panels have been put together but this is what was done on the house but I guess that since the timber frame is the main structure, it does not need structural splines.



When the designer came up with the drawings, she asked the town if they need an engineers stamp and they told her that yes they do. She forwarded the plans to an engineer that she uses who altered the drawings quite substantially, for instance, he added 2 rooms for extra building support, and these 4 stabilizer wall supports that stick out from the wall 2' and go from floor to ceiling (seriously?). Unfortunately I will have to pay for the change in drawings as well as another engineers stamp.

Hi beenthere, You are absolutely correct but it is very disheartening that something was not said before he went ahead and made all these changes without mentioning the consequences. You can always get over that hump with a little extra time and moe money.

Hi witterbound, The splines in the drawing above is the standard way of attaching the panels together, the engineer added 2x6 splines for structural strength and yes, at the corners of the building there is normally 2x6 attached to the ends like the pic below.



Regards,
Geeg

[Geeg]

Have had some time now for a little update with my shop project. I managed to get 3 weeks back in June to clear an area for the shop and dig the foundation, lay the footings and help with the foundation block wall construction. Lost about 10lbs during this time but loved every min of it. Managed to get some pics of the build and some videos uploaded to my youtube channel, this can be found here, http://www.youtube.com/user/TheLumberjackShack


Shot from the house looking up to the clearing


The Kubota doing its thing.


Got a fire permit and started burning, even had the fire supervisor come out for a visit after I called the town to let them know if they get a call about a rather large fire in my area not to bother coming out, guess this intrigued them enough to check it out.


Good thing, the area was quite wet.


More clearing, took 4 days to clear the entire area.


Digging the foundation.


Working on getting the footings setup.


Block walls finished and the 2" amvic foam was attached.


The inspection was done and passed, now time to back fill.


Slinging the sand.


Stone was slung as well and then 2" Amvic foam insulation was laid and sealed and wire mesh installed.


A shot of the house in relation to the shop.


Have to clear the rest of the area back to the white pine in the background and backfill and lay pitrun, probably next year.


In-floor pex tubing was laid to heat the floor in the winter.


Tubing was connected and pressurized to make sure there was no leaks before the pour.


Finished product, turned out quite good, nice and smooth.


A Canadian toony for good luck, worth about $1.94 USD  ;D

Will post more pics as they come in as I am unfortunately not there to supervise or help out  :( The frame was started a couple days ago.

[Morewood]

What model is the Kubota that you are using ?

[Dave Shepard]

Looks like a KX 080.

[Geeg]

Yes, its a KX 080-3

[irishcountry]

  What a awesome thread !! Great build !

[Geeg]

  What a awesome thread !! Great build !

Thanks irishcountry.

I have been getting some images from my contractor over the last week with an update of the shop, sure wish I was there to help out but unfortunately have to work to pay for this little project :(


2 walls went up in the first day, good progress. This is one of the GC's helper standing in the man door.


Installing the end truss


The GC's guard dog




3 walls up and ready for truss installation.


Dan showing where the wall will be for the office.


A couple of shots from my surveillance cameras, tight fit




Crane truck arrives on site and yes that is a woman.


The first of 24 truss's, took 7 hours to complete.


Adding some bracing.


Not bad for a days work, good going guys!