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JB Weld

Started by lxskllr, April 20, 2019, 04:13:21 PM

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lxskllr

What's your experience with this stuff? I have a thread going in chainsaws regarding clearing saws, and I mentioned how the handlebars have gotten a little sloppy due to some broken cast metal bits. I'm not really comfortable making a warranty claim cause I've been using it hard. I don't see any manufacturing flaws. It /could/ be a flawed design, but I'm not gonna make a claim every 7 hours of use. Aside from being lame, it'll make it more likely they reject me if I get a real problem. So... I'm thinking of JB Welding the block together. If I have to take it apart, I can chisel it open in the future. How well does this stuff hold up to shearing forces? The block has a threaded bolt that holds it closed top to bottom, and keyed teeth, some of which have broken  keeping it from moving side to side. Would JB Weld work to keep it from moving side to side with significant force applied?

Magicman

I am a big fan of JB Weld.  The 24 hour version seems to be harder than quick set version, but I use both for different applications.  Heat it with a torch to soften and remove it.
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caveman

JB Weld is decent for some applications but if the original metal parts failed in seven hours of use, it may disappoint you.  I used it to fix the handle bar mount on my Husqvarna 359, twice.  It did okay for a while and then I decided to buy a case half from Chainsawer (former FF sponsor) and it has proven much more reliable.



 

 
Caveman

Tom King

If the blocks are still good to be bolted together, and the problem is only the teeth.  Shindaiwa uses a little separate piece that serves the same purpose that can be squeezed in there by taking the blocks apart, putting the curved piece on the shaft, and then bolting the blocks back together.  

My Stihl FS450K has been using one for years with no slippage.  Just find a Shindaiwa dealer, and they should know what I'm talking about.  Mine was suggested by a dealer that sold both Stihl, and Shindaiwa.

millwright

Several years ago I bought an allis tractor that had a broken rod go through the block. All the pieces were still there, so I cleaned everything up real good and after replacing the rod and piston I put the block pieces back together with JB weld , it is still good after 20 years.

btulloh

We're gonna need a little more detail on that. . . 
HM126

petefrom bearswamp

I nicked a hole in the fuel tank on my Echo cs600p 6 years ago.
Patched it with JB quickweld and it lasted a year.
roughed the spot up did it again and it is still holding.
I assume the jb weld is much better.
Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

barbender

I had a front driveshaft on my Dodge 3500 4x4 let go, it vibrated like crazy before I could get stopped. It ended up causing a hairline crack in my transfer case that started to weep fluid. Not wanting to tear down my t-case and put a new front case on it, I drained it, heated the cracked area enough to drive any residual oil out, shined it up real good with a wire wheel, and JB'd it. It's been good for over half a year, it still seeps just a bit up high where I couldn't get any JB on it. Works for me😁
Too many irons in the fire

lxskllr

I had some old JB Weld I bought for some purpose I can no longer remember. The caps were seized on, so I cut notches off the bottoms for a single use application, and did my handlebars. Hopefully it'll work, but I have my doubts. If that doesn't work, I'll either look for the piece Tom King mentioned, or drill a hole sideways through the block, and use a bolt/washers to clamp it in place.

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