Racks for storing wood? in my new building

[Brad_bb]

So just finishing the new storage building.  I will moving and losing my 3 sheds like this and going to this one only.  Hopefully the vast majority of the wood in my 3 buildings will be used in my house build.  In any case, unlike my 3 buildings, I need to take more advantage of vertical space in the new building so I can get more in there.  The height to the bottom chord of the roof truss is 17ft.  The temporary braces you see in my pic will be removed.



 

Against the wall shown between the two man doors, I'm thinking of a single cantilevered rack on the left like this with maybe 3 uprights.  You can get the arms 36", 48", 54".





I could modify my lumber pallets to fit the racking to put air dried lumber, not green or stickered lumber.  I have a lot of Barnwood too I've been using for trim.  Right now it's stored on the floor of my other good building on 4 wheel dollies so I can move it around.  



 
I could palletize this material and set it on the rack.  It's the variety of material that I have from Barn wood, to T&G, to air dried rough sawn boards and slabs that I need to be organized and be efficient with this building space.

To the right of the single cantilevered rack, I figured I'd put up pallet racking like at Home depot.  I could then store my extra skid steer bucket, misc beam cutoffs, etc.  My concern about the pallet racking is that each section is usually 8ft wide.  Rough sawn wood of mine is usually 8ft 2in to 9ft., which means I couldn't put any on the pallet racking.

Thanks again!

Maybe I should have 2 single cantilevered racks?

I'm open to any advice on organizing this.  I've got so much on the floors of my 3 buildings, I definitely need to store vertically from now on.  My mill will go on the other side of the building on a concrete pad 40' long and the other 40' has a 5' wide pad for stickered lumber stacks.  @YellowHammer

FYI, I DO NOT SELL WOOD.  I just generally do my own projects for myself.  In the future I might sell some curved brace stock etc, or I might not.  After I this year my milling will be cut way back as I will pretty much have what I need for my house build, and enough wood to keep my in projects and building tables for a number of years.  Initially, I'm going to have to store a couple hundred bales of 2'x3'x6' hay until our hay barn is finished.  Thanks again.  

[Tom the Sawyer]

Brad,

Most pallet racking is available in a variety of depths and heights (the uprights) and beam lengths.  I started with 9' beams for my 8' pallets and 13' beams for the 12' pallets.  After using them for some time, I will probably add 10' beams for most spacing, gives me a bit more room since most my lumber is a few inches over 8' and the 13' spacing is sufficient for my needs.  The place where I buy my used pallet rack has uprights from 72' to 288" high, mine are 42" deep x 120" tall.  I am sure you could find 16' tall uprights, need to consider how high your forklift can reach.  They also have cantilever racking, I've never had a need to look into that.

[farmfromkansas]

If you stack your lumber on pallets, you can stack one pallet on top of the last. My air drying starts with a pallet on the bottom, then another and another till it is about 10' tall, then I put the top on the stack.  My skidsteer will not lift a huge pallet of lumber, when it is green it is pretty heavy, but once it is dry handles it much better. So I just put as much on a pallet that the skidsteer can handle.  Very nice shed!

[EOTE]

Unless you have a preferred provider for the pallet racks, check Craigslist.  I know they are offering used racks in a variety of configurations in the DFW area.  They will probably have it in the Chicago area as well.

[Brad_bb]

.@farmfromkansas,  as I said, I am not stacking stickered Green wood on the pallet racks or the cantilever racks.  Those are stacked separately on the floor so that they stack weight on top of each other. The reason I'm looking at the cantilever rack is because I have wood material that is not uniform stacking and cannot be stacked on top of each other, Like the Barnwood and other odd size materials.

[YellowHammer]

That is a very nice building.  As you said, the pallet racking won't be wide enough, and even if you start doing 10, 12, or even 16 foot material, or whatever, you won't be able to place it on pallet racks unless they are wider.  Also, the wider a pallet rack gets, the lower it capacity.  

The cantilever racks, on the other hand are very strong, and can take any length material, whether on a pallet, skid, or not.  As long as every stack has at least three supports, it won't bow over time.  Only two supports under an 8 foot stack will bow and take a set, after several months, been there done that.  

[DDW_OR]

.....I need to take more advantage of vertical space in the new building so I can get more in there.  The height to the bottom chord of the roof truss is 17ft.  The temporary braces you see in my pic will be removed.....

is that a gravel floor?

[Brad_bb]

Thanks Robert.  I did the stem wall and other things to reduce mice getting in.

The floor is compacted gravel and ag lime, wetted down and compacted again.  One side of the buildings(the side not shown), has concrete pad for the mill and stickered stacks.  If I have to, I can add a pad on this side for racks- only if I have to.  It's pretty firm and level.

[EOTE]

Thanks Robert.  I did the stem wall and other things to reduce mice getting in.

The floor is compacted gravel and ag lime, wetted down and compacted again.  One side of the buildings(the side now shown, has concrete pad for the mill and stickered stacks.  If I have to, I can had a pad on this side for racks- only if I have to.  It's pretty firm and level.

The cantilever racks will require a solid concrete floor.  Probably will want to go with a 5000 psi mix and 16 to 18 inch footings under the load bearing area of the racks. They need to be anchored into something solid.

[Walnut Beast]

Nice building and plans for it 👍. What's the size and are you putting in a concrete floor

[Brad_bb]

80x55.  Only concrete pads along the west wall.  I don't want the expense on the east side but it may be necessary.

[Oliver05262]

Brad, when you said temporary braces, are you talking about the braces at about a 45 between the posts and the trusses at the side wall? I wouldn't rush to remove those. I would work around them if at all possible. Properly put in, they add a lot of stability to the sidewalls, a lot of stiffness to resist wind load.
  Just my experience: you know your own layout and needs.

[Brad_bb]

The building was engineered to not need them.  They were temporary for putting the frame up.  I told the I wanted braces ( after it was up). Engineer said they could be installed even though not needed, and indicated the attachment locations on the plans.  I'm going to have a lot of left over naturally curved hardwood braces after my house build, so I thought that would make it interesting.