Re: INSERT TOOTH SAWBLADES

UNCLEBUCK · February 24, 2003, 08:26:26 PM

unclebucks fahrquhar mill almost ready to roll,. I.H. forage chopper gearbox to reverse p.t.o. direction for blade ,bulletproof glass shield for sawyer,corley setworks and replaced most of the wood with heavy steel beams,4 inch grain auger for sawdust removal, disston blade hammered for 400 + rpm, just need to level up and block properly and remove the wheels,hydraulic carriage and 100 horse old farm tractor for power, hope my 1st picture compression turns out ok, not sure but practicing when I can, picture is out there somewhere

UNCLEBUCK · February 25, 2003, 06:42:25 PM

:P trying to get saw picture to here,always goes to front page photos area , i better read on and keep practicing compressing,

UNCLEBUCK · February 26, 2003, 04:10:31 PM

O.K. here is the old farquhar mill and disston blade ,waiting for spring now !

thanks mitch, hope i did this correct.

D._Frederick · February 27, 2003, 11:40:38 AM

Uncle Buck,
Your blade looks awful dark, I would say that you need to spend some time with some sandpaper, your blade will run cooler if it has no rust on it. A 52 tooth blade is a little strong for just 100hp., the old timers used to figure about 3hp/tooth. Are you going to use a belt to drive the mill at 400rpm? Make sure you don't have much slippage.
You did a nice looking job rebuilding your mill with steel, should saw real nice when you get it aligned.

mitch · February 27, 2003, 01:12:07 PM

UncleBuck:
I agree with D._Frederick.

QuoteYou did a nice looking job rebuilding your mill with steel, should saw real nice when you get it aligned.

It looks like it could saw circles around my old "drop dog" Vance mill.
Good luck and keep us posted.

UNCLEBUCK · February 28, 2003, 08:34:42 PM

hi everybody ! well I guess I better put all my books away and start stacking up the logs and get that first log buzzed up ! I am nervous about it but as with all things once I have done it awhile I will start to enjoy ! I have to save up for a new blade about 48 inch and 36 to 40 teeth and thick and strong! found this mill for 500 bucks ,2 blades included and then put about 3,500 bucks into it ! I suppose a new blade has to cost a couple thousand but will be money well spent once I get the hang of it ! thanks for the compliments,it makes me feel good to know the old farquhar is going come alive again ! quite a few times I was almost ready to forget it all ! the forum rocks !

UNCLEBUCK · February 28, 2003, 08:43:48 PM

forgot to answer question ! it has been converted to pto but can be run on belt if I choose to but tried that 20 years ago with a R john deere and then a 830 j.d. and it scared me to death and the board man so switched over to p.t.o. and then put a shear bolt in a machined collar between gearbox and arbor, I dont have a slip clutch on the p.t.o. but am hoping the shear bolt will shear if everything goes sour ! from my new reading on the forum seems like everyone suggests a p.t.o. shaft with a slip clutch,have not found anyone yet that just used a shear bolt ! take care ! :P

mitch · March 01, 2003, 05:35:08 AM

UncleBuck:
Some useful links:
New saws, resonable priced...I have two of their saws
   http://www.paynesaws.com/

Meadows Mills uses their saws
   http://www.meadowsmills.com/

Complete PTO drives with built in slip clutch
   http://www.surpluscenter.com

That is a fine looking mill....worth investing a few more dollars in.
Good luck.

D._Frederick · March 02, 2003, 03:50:00 PM

UncleBuck,
Have you checked how the saw is hanging since you had it hammered? You may have to shim it to get the dish in the blade correct. Mitch nodoubt can give you more info about this.

Fla._Deadheader · March 02, 2003, 05:09:09 PM

Hey, "D". Didja ever post any pics of your mill on the forum?? I would really like to see it. You have done several things different than the rest of us. There's all kinds of homemade stuff on here. How about adding yours??

Sawyerfortyish · March 02, 2003, 07:25:23 PM

Unclebuck I got what you been looking for a full box of brandee new style 33 disston saw bits. No I don,t want to sell them. I have a 58" disston I wanted to have cut down and fitted for new style teeth. It aint worth it. Buy a new blade. They gaurantee them to work right. If your just getting set to start sawing a new blade will eliminate some problems you might have right off.
Someone mentioned sanding a dirty blade. Don,t do it! Ask a saw DR. how to clean a blade he will tell you to use a wire brush. Not by hand but an angle grinder with one works good. Never use sand paper. I got my A$$ chewed out by a saw DR.for doing that.
22yrs ago I started sawing with a 44" blade and a 70 HP tractor. All big oak and I can tell you it aint enough power I did ok but it takes time to get the feel of the blade the power and the sound of the blade to know when to slow down or shut down and sharpen
You got a nice looking mill there to start and maybe you can help answer that old question about which mill is better A Frick or a Fraq :-/ :D I run an old Frick now. Started with an American mill just put in the Frick 3 yrs ago. Now I run a 671 Detroit 200+ HP no more power problems. I also run 56" blades I bought one every year for the last 3 years. So now I have enough that one can be worked on. One sawing lumber and one spare. I found that buying used is getting someone elses problem.
Nice to have you on the forum hope to hear how things are going.

UNCLEBUCK · March 02, 2003, 08:03:20 PM

I log on and check my question about insert teeth and it says I have vad 35 replies and so i click on page 2 and it only shows 25, I cant read what people are asking me ! or telling me ! so I log out and back on and same thing ! last night it says I have 2 new messages so i click on to check and it only shows 3 old messages allready read and responded to ! someday I will be able to answer all when I can see what your saying !

Sawyerfortyish · March 02, 2003, 08:18:25 PM

Unclebuck I never log off I always stay logged on. What I would like to know is why the clock at the left is from 5 to 15 min slow. sometimes it almost catches up.

UNCLEBUCK · March 02, 2003, 08:21:06 PM

ok I made it in and finally got to read responses ! yeah !!!! well the disston blade hanging on the mill has just come back from saw shop and it was wire brushed and does shine in most parts enough to clearly read the old disston name on it. the shanks are (C) and the teeth are 8 or HH8, I think I found enough after digging through a few pails . I have a 671 motor in the bottom of the truck crane and thought about making the switch but the arbor is not thick enough for that kind of power so I am totally happy with the old 100 horse farm tractor, but if the old disston conks out on me I have a 50 inch ATKINS with new shanks and bits and if that is too much blade then I think I will have to get a new blade and then my troubles are over, I cant say enough how much I appreciate everyone responding to my rooky questions but until I get a couple good days sawing with the new improvements made to this old beater I am full of questions but am happy to get answers from real experienced sawyers and dont know what I would do without you guys now ! I listen to everyone and appreciate it all, I dont think I have been a member for more than a few weeks and allready am starting to feel like a sawyer ! haha

UNCLEBUCK · March 02, 2003, 08:27:38 PM

SAWYER40, I will stay logged on all the time and then see how it goes,thanks for the tip ! I feel like mitch is my neighbor allready for helping me so much,now I am going to check out payne sawblades ! I also look at everyones profile to see what kind of mills they have or maybe see pictures,its fun to look at someone elses mill and get ideas ! thanks SAWYER40

UNCLEBUCK · March 02, 2003, 08:30:35 PM

Thanks Mitch for the new sites to check out and add to my favorites ! why in a few more weeks I might have something intelligent to add to the forum ! haha, maybe not !

UNCLEBUCK · March 02, 2003, 08:40:43 PM

D._Frederick ! hey there ! no I have not checked anything yet or leveled and aligned but I had the outside collar machined because it had no inside clearance but the inside collar looks like it is flat and smooth. With my book from Lunstrom in hand I will go through everything step by step and the old blades I had fixed up at the saw shop hopefully will do for just a little longer,these blades have not seen action for 20 years .I just cant wait to tell all my new forum buddies that I cut a log. probably is no big deal to most but I am just cranked up and spend the warm days dropping big frozen white oaks, maybe you can tell me more about your mill ok ! it all helps me ! thanks !

Paul_H · March 02, 2003, 09:07:11 PM

This has been an interesting thread for me because I've only been around a couple circle mills,and it was just to drop of some logs.I never had a chance to see how they work.

I went back to a older thread that I really liked, that has video clips of sawmills in action

Sawmills in action

Ron Wenrich · March 03, 2003, 02:54:46 AM

Collars need to have a little bevel on them. A couple thousands or you'll have problems.

UNCLEBUCK · March 04, 2003, 08:50:44 PM

Paul_H thanks for the thread of sawmills in action ,that is great to watch ! Jeffs mill is awesome and Corley5 is fantastic,I will be cutting just like Corley5 does it ! And to Ron W I could only have the fast collar machined and the man at rice sawshop here in minnesota said I would have to bring the arbor in and they would sweat the inside collar off and told me as long as it looks good on a straight edge to the eyeball I could bet by with it, I will know as soon as spring arrives here. thanks again everyone ! I made track cleaners in front of each carriage wheel out of box pipe that slides inside another boxpipe and kind of floats along with the carriage ,I tested it on a dry run when I was testing the hydraulic carriage out and seemed to look good but sure makes alot of screaching sounds , any feedback on this would help too ! ok ! I am going to watch sawing movies again,

mitch · March 05, 2003, 03:57:17 AM

UncleBuck:
Sounds like you are really putting the mill into top notch condition. Some additional comments about saw collars:
The "tight" collar should undergo final machining on the arbor shaft. It takes a long bed lathe and just a few thousandths of an inch cut to true it with a slight bevel as Ron suggested. If it is machined off the arbor and then heat shrunk back on some minor distortion can occur.
Good luck.

Jeff · March 05, 2003, 05:44:37 AM

We have a collar grinding machine at work. It uses big tapered grinding stones versus a cutter. We are talkign about a process that does nto take long because the material being removed is minut. It takes a while to set it up though.

I'll try to get a picture of it when I finally get back to work.

D._Frederick · March 05, 2003, 03:45:14 PM

Jeff.
Since the saw has a sharp edge against it from the collar being ground with a bevel. does the saw wear a groove at the contact point? Reading over some sawmill books from the thirties, they did not have a bevel ground on the collars. They cut paper rings (washers) so that the collars did not change the way the blade hung from loose to tight arbor nut. This was the way our No. 2 American had the blade set up.

Ron Wenrich · March 05, 2003, 04:00:32 PM

Saw doctors really frown on paper shims. An old miller showed me how to use them and they work pretty well, but I wouldn't do it on higher RPM mills.

The collars are beveled so that when you tighten the nut, it pulls the collars flat. Otherwise, the collars will bevel out, and may not meet at the same point. If your collars are off just a little bit, you will have some problems.

We had our collars turned on the mill. We found someone to come out to the mill to do the work.

As for track cleaners, I saw one guy who screwed paint brushes onto his carriage. It looked strange, but it worked..

What I have done is take a piece of 4x4 piece of steel, and tack it to the carriage. Inside I put pieces of wood, so that there was wood on top and the sides of the track. Works great and no noise.

Jackson mills used to have a piece of pipe - about 3" welded to the carriage. Inside, you would put a piece of round stock. Then they had a spring on top and put on a cap. Mine worked better

UNCLEBUCK · March 06, 2003, 07:24:18 PM

hey everyone, my dad just recovered from major cancer surgery and he is the one that was the brains behind rebuilding the old Farquhar mill but to give him inspiration tonight I sat him down and we watched Corley5"s sawmill movie and Jeffs huge lightning bolt movie sawing logs and he is smiling from ear to ear and thought it was way cool, thanks ForestryForum ! made his night for sure !