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Stihl 026 Won't Run on its Side

Started by tractorman44, September 11, 2014, 07:57:32 AM

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tractorman44




One of my little limbing saws, Stihl 026 maybe 10 years old just began dying when tossed to its side.  Upright it will scream like a banshee but falter then die within seconds when its laid over.  Filter and tube in the tank check ok and there's no evidence of the switch connection grounding in that position.  Hmmmm....suggestions ??







sawguy21

You have an air leak. The fuel or impulse line is likely cracked. It may also be a bad crank seal. Which side is up when this starts to happen?
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Caloren

This happened to my 028, it was due to a cracked fuel line.
Stihl MS 170, Stihl MS 310, Stihl 028 AV Super, and half a dozen other no-accounts! Cat D4 D.

deerslayer

If it was my saw, I would replace the fuel line and pay attention when installing it that the preformed line allows the filter to go to the bottom of the tank in all positions.

Crank seals (as mentioned) are also a possibility if the saw runs erratically when changing positions but typically this will affect it more at idle, not cutting rpms.

When the saw quits, does it start back up right away or does it take a few pulls like it was out of gas?

Another thing that would lead to a cracked fuel line would be if the saw operates normally when the tank is completely full and gives grief when partially full.
Too many chainsaws, not enough wood.
Stihl, Husky, Craftsman, Mac, Homelite, Poulan. Some live here, some just passing through.

tractorman44

Sawguy, it is when it is laid over to the right side (bar down). 

Deersslayer, it does take quite a few pulls to fire back up.  Doesn't seem to matter either whether the tank if full or partially full either.

I'm hoping its not a crankshaft seal.....  It does idle quite well.


Al_Smith

If it's a seal it really isn't a big deal .It would most likely on  be the power or clutch side .Once you strip  all the clutch and associated guarding away,oil pump etc  just pop a little hole in the metal portion of the seal with a sharp punch and pull it out with a drywall screw .

Use a deep well socket that is just slightly smaller than the od of the seal and tap the new one in place .Use a little oil on it .It's so easy even I can do it .The seal is Stihl oem and probabley  around 20 bucks more or less from a dealer .

tractorman44

Quote from: Al_Smith on September 11, 2014, 07:38:02 PM
If it's a seal it really isn't a big deal .It would most likely on  be the power or clutch side .Once you strip  all the clutch and associated guarding away,oil pump etc  just pop a little hole in the metal portion of the seal with a sharp punch and pull it out with a drywall screw .

Use a deep well socket that is just slightly smaller than the od of the seal and tap the new one in place .Use a little oil on it .It's so easy even I can do it .The seal is Stihl oem and probabley  around 20 bucks more or less from a dealer .

Yep, I'm thinking the first order of business will the the impulse and fuel line and if the problem persists, on to the crank seal. 

joe_indi

Quote from: tractorman44 on September 11, 2014, 07:57:32 AM
One of my little limbing saws, Stihl 026 maybe 10 years old just began dying when tossed to its side.  Upright it will scream like a banshee but falter then die within seconds when its laid over.  Filter and tube in the tank check ok and there's no evidence of the switch connection grounding in that position.  Hmmmm....suggestions ??
This usually happens when the jet valve/check valve no longer closes fully. This causes pressurized air to enter the metering chamber, which prevents fuel from flowing in. This causes a leaning out of the fuel, that has symptoms similar to the saw running out of fuel.
Additionally, if it is 10 year old saw, the carb could definitely do with a replacement of diaphragms, which stiffen with age and become pretty inaccurate in function.

7sleeper

Personaly if you want another ten years out of your saw I would do a full overhaul! Replace all the "rubber" (seals, carb, fuel lines, etc.) parts! It will be like new again and you can tackle another ten years without much thought.

Good luck!

7

PineNut

I had a similar problem with my Husky. The fuel filter on this saw is on the end of the fuel line inside the tank. The fuel filter came off the fuel line and when the saw was turned on its side, the fuel line was above the surface of the fuel. Replacing the filter on the line cured the problem.   

tractorman44

All good suggestions and I agree the whole thing needs a bit of freshening up.  Hopefully a little shop time is in the near future so until then it'll have to rest near the workbench.  Thanks for the suggestions. 

I'm thinking of ordering replacement fuel lines and fuel filter and also replacement carb internals then do the lines first, see if that fixes it then move on to the carb, then if necessary the crank seals.


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