Stick Welder

[Norm]

I would like to get some recommendations for a stick welder for use on the farm here. Something in the middle of range cost and ability wise.

[Larry]

I bought a Lincoln AC-225-S sometime in the late 80's and have used...and abused it a lot.  The fan makes a little noise now but other than that it runs like a new one.

I've made two log splitters, one log processor, forks for the FEL, trailers, and who knows what else.  Can't say one bad word about it. 

[isawlogs]

 Norm I dont think you can go wrong with any of the hobarts , millers or linconls(sp) as for the model numbers , I have been out of the welding trade now for too long to be of any help .
When I was doing the high steel , Millers where quite popular with the rental crowed . We had ( compagnie ) Lincons and hobarts , all where good and trustfull machines .

  Only thing I would recomend to you would be to get an A/C  D/C welder . They weld better and have a better selection of welding electrode for them .

 

[Radar67]

I recently bought a Lincoln AC-225 as well. My FIL has used one for the last 25 years that I know of, and from the looks of it, he had it long before I met him.  

[timberfaller610]

It's a personal preferance thing. I prefer the millers the seem to be smoother and possible more "Idiot Proof" than the lincolns.

[tcsmpsi]

Well, Norm, I have the old Lincoln 225 (AC), too.  First thing I made with it,  was a cart to wheel the heavy bugger around. :D

I've had it about 25 yrs, I suppose.  It has held up under me, but I've no idea how good it is, as those are the only units I hve used.  It has welded and cut every thing I asked of it. 

[mike_van]

I gotta vote Lincoln 225 too, I bought mine in '77 at Central Tractor, 99.00 - Still working fine, I don't know how many lbs. of rod been through it, it's in the hundreds though. Only thing I've done is replace the little factory cables with 40 ft. of 1/0   8)

[ksu_chainsaw]

I like the Miller Bobcat that my brother has on the back of his work truck.  Probably more than you want to spend though- it also has a 15k generator built in it and runs 110 at an idle on that diesel engine.  That fuel tank will run 2-3 days of welding and generating though.

I would just watch out for the cheaper welders out there and make sure that you have at least a 90% duty cycle, 100% preferred, because if you get a lower rated duty cycle, they always seem to shut down when you need them the most- like when you only have 1/2" of weld left to lay down, or when you are working under the vehicle and are trying to brace the part in while welding it.  >:(

just my 2 cents

Charles

[Dave Shepard]

I would recommend a Lincoln, miller, or any of the older machines. The heavier it is, the better. I like Lincoln, but the others are great too. Fully variable amperage, not just in 10 amp increments is desirable. AC/DC is highly preferred, you will want DC for most welding applications. If you can find one, a Lincoln "Tombstone" will not let you down. I got mine for $25 at an auction, but with the price of copper, those days are gone. If you are only puttering around with it, the little leads you will get with a smaller new unit will be OK, but if you are going to make up leads, go a little longer, and a little heavier. Mine are 50'. I know where to borrow another few hundred feet, if needed. :D


Dave

[Dodgy Loner]

Only thing I would recomend to you would be to get an A/C  D/C welder . They weld better and have a better selection of welding electrode for them.

Yeah, but their music hurts my ears :

[sgtmaconga]

Lincon here

[easymoney]

make sure that whatever you buy has copper windings. sometimes you can find bargains at auction sales. a few years ago i bought a truck load of ac-dc welders for $15.00 each at a school auction. i had sold enough of them to make my money back before i got home. i am still using one of them. i turned down one for $5.00 not thinking that it might have $50.00 worth of copper in it.

[Don P]

Yeah, but their music hurts my ears

that's just that fan noise Larry was talkin about. Mine makes the same racket. Some times if you kick the side of the box right it improves.

[Warren]

Daughter's boyfriend is a pipeline welder by trade.  Swears by the older Lincolns with the continental engines. I ain't never been able to tear apart anything he has put together with his.  Guess I ain't trying hard enuff....

[WH_Conley]

Kick it again Warren, with the good foot.  :D

[Dave Shepard]

At $3.85/pound, there is more than $50 worth of copper in one of those old welders. ;)


Dave

[WH_Conley]

SSHH! Don't tell everybody. :D

[arojay]

I bought a Miller Blue Star 185 a couple of years ago and it is one of the nicest gas powered welding machines I have ever used.  Mine is Honda powered which is OK, but they make a more costly model with Kohler power and auto throttle.  I would go for that if I did it again.  The Honda powered one is manual throttle.  It was cheaper and they had one on the floor so I took it.

[scsmith42]

Norm, lot's of good advice so far.

Personally, no matter what you get I'd make sure that you could weld both AC and DC with it.   DC welding allows you to change the polarity (by swapping the leads), and there are times that this could be beneficial.  I do most of my mild steel welding with DC reverse polarity.

If you can swing it, an engine driven welder will allow you a lot of flexibility, and it also provides a standby generator.  I have a Miller Trailblazer Pro with a diesel engine; the generator puts out 12KW and the welder is a dream.  Other manufacturers have equipment that is similar in price and quality.

I find that I use my old "crackerbox" stick welder in the shop almost as often as the big diesel one though.  It's not as nice to weld with, but it sure is convenient.  It's a 25 year old Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC welder.

Another option is to pick up a TIG welder, and use it as a power source for both AC/DC and TIG.  If you are good at welding with Oxy-acytelene, then you already have a lot of the TIG technique down pat.

Get plenty of lead with your welder.  I have 100' leads on my engine driven one and have use all of it on occasion.  The crackerbox has 30' leads, which occasionally is not enough.

If you shop online, IOC (e-bay vendor) has some great deals.  I priced out a package with them, and took it to my local welding shop.  Fortunately the local shop was able to match the overall bid, so I could keep the $ in my community.

Quinton (QWEAVER) is a former welding teacher; he's THE MAN when it comes to sound welding advice.  If he has an advice that's different than mine, FOLLOW HIS!

Scott

[Dave Shepard]

If you want a "Does it all" welder-generator, you want this! Lincoln Air Vantage  This thing can power our LT40E15 sawmill! And it's got a Cummins!


Dave

[Corley5]

Lincoln AC 225 Buzz Box.  Ours has been around here for as long as I can remember and is still going strong.  I just welded up some spots on the Mule with it yesterday.  If I were buying a new one it'd be an AC/DC model

[Dodgy Loner]

Yeah, but their music hurts my ears

that's just that fan noise Larry was talkin about. Mine makes the same racket. Some times if you kick the side of the box right it improves.

I dunno.  The curly-headed one looks like he would get pretty mad if I kicked him ;D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bomv-6CJSfM

[Norm]

Thanks for all the great advice folks. I've found the Lincoln AC/DC 225 at HD for a pretty good price. I'd love to have one with a generator but I just don't do enough welding to justify the cost. Of course it's been since industrial arts class in high school since I've done any welding so I may just a bit rusty. :D

Any advice on some accessories to get besides a auto darkening helmet?

[isawlogs]

You bought the same welder I have at dads , great little machine , 25 years and going strong .
Get a lot of lead , then get more  ;) :D 
I would sugest getting some 7014 rod , 6011 and 7018 .
The 14 is a very easy welding rod , has lots of elastisity and almost stick free . I use it when putting things together as it is very forgiving when squaring up , then I weld it with the 18
I usualy have a box of 1/8 and a box of 3/32 of each on hand . I like usiung the 3/32 to tack things together prior to welding up .
  I good cheaping hammer and wire brush is a must , a grinder and a good face shield .
  You should have a second helmet around , who ever is around and lends the third hand would be a happier camper with a shield  ;)

[olyman]

You bought the same welder I have at dads , great little machine , 25 years and going strong .
Get a lot of lead , then get more  ;) :D 
I would sugest getting some 7014 rod , 6011 and 7018 .
The 14 is a very easy welding rod , has lots of elastisity and almost stick free . I use it when putting things together as it is very forgiving when squaring up , then I weld it with the 18
I usualy have a box of 1/8 and a box of 3/32 of each on hand . I like usiung the 3/32 to tack things together prior to welding up .
  I good cheaping hammer and wire brush is a must , a grinder and a good face shield .
  You should have a second helmet around , who ever is around and lends the third hand would be a happier camper with a shield  ;)

Just a note. 7018 is a rod commonly used for high strength welding. As such, that rod has to be kept-----DRY--as in, if it gets any moisture to speak of,you can lose up to 50% of the weld strength!!! Learned this only after i had taken some night classes at Hawkeye tech in waterloo,ia. Didnt know it before!!!!!! And dc reverse should also be used for 7018---just what i learned in class----