iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Pushing rivets out with a chain breaker

Started by JuJuOne, February 23, 2011, 10:08:16 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

JuJuOne

I am new to bulk chain and have been having trouble using a bench mounted chain breaker to push rivets out. With tremendous pressure, I can push the narrower end of the rivet out of its hole but the rivet head won't budge from its slot. As a result the tie strap comes open but I still can't break the chain.

I read somewhere on the forum that people file off the rivet head. Is this the standard practice?

As there are no detailed instructions about chain breaking, I could use some advice.

Also are rivets destroyed in the process of breaking the chain or can they be reused?

Be grateful for some help.

sawguy21

If you need tremendous pressure the punch is either A too big for the rivet or B (more likely) not centered. Are you bending the driver? Also make sure you are using the correct slot in the anvil and the driver does not slip into the groove. 
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

JuJuOne

I am quite sure I have the chain set in the anvil properly and that I have the driver properly centred, but as I say it seems the rivet head won't slide out of its slot even though I push the narrow end of the rivet out.

sharkey

Your making this too hard.  Buzz the head off the rivet with a die grinder or a dremel and a cut off wheel.  Then you can use just about anything to push the rivet out.  Use a new tie strap and pre set (rivet) to replace the one you removed.  Spin the rivet head and your done.

dovetails

Quote from: JuJuOne on February 23, 2011, 10:56:08 PM
I am quite sure I have the chain set in the anvil properly and that I have the driver properly centred, but as I say it seems the rivet head won't slide out of its slot even though I push the narrow end of the rivet out.

If I understand you right, your expecting to have 2 straps,and 2 rivets,when you break the chain?    When you push the rivets out of the top strap, the bottom strap stays on, so you only have 2 pieces, a strap with 2 rivets,and the top strap. The anvil lets the bottom strap drop down into the hollow slot. Once the top strap is off, the chain will fall apart.  You can resuse the link to put it back together,but a new one is easier..    Hope this helps ya.
1984 wm lt30,ford 3000 w/frt lift,several chain saws, 1953 model 30 Vermeer stump grinder,full wood working shop, log home in the woods what more ya need?

Al_Smith


lumberjack48

The slots on the anvil are marked, 3/8, .325, ect, lay your 3/8 chain in the 3/8 slot, straighten the chain out so its laying flat, center the breaker punch on rivet, with a nice steady pressure, you'll see the rivet start to push out, as soon as you see it start [stop] and go over to the other rivet, center it and with steady pressure on the handle push it out all the way, then go back and finish the first rivet.
I never had to grind the rivets, but if it makes it easier for you, then do it

If you push the first rivet out all the way, it bends the under strap every time, makes it unusable.

I always perfered using the used strap, put it together and give it a tap with a hammer, then finish riveting it.

The main thing is be careful not to get the strap to tight when putting the chain back together, it should move easy, takes a little practice 
Ounce you do this about a 100 times you'll see how easy it is, the main thing at first is to take your time and understand how it all works together.
I sold Carlton chain and Windsor-Sandvik bars and ect, for 6 yrs.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

HolmenTree

Another major thing about a bench mounted chain breaker is change the punch when the tip gets rounded off.
I have lots of spares. A sharp punch works wonders.

Willard.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Thank You Sponsors!