Tractor deal / tire issues

[livemusic]

Very near ready to close a deal on a tractor, a 2017 Mahindra 5010 tractor with FEL, 6ft Woods brand bushhog for $20k, delivered. Has 430 hours, in good shape. Seem like a good deal? Based on prices in this area, it does to me.

EDIT:  49hp, 4wd, no wheel weights, not loaded

I am concerned with the tires on it. I thought they were R1 ag tires but they are R4. I fear this being a problem using it in the woods. Firewood duty, getting logs or big rounds out. I mostly would use this in my woodlot or possibly in other people's woodlots where I 'harvest' firewood trees. But I also have to clip my 7 acre pasture to keep it decent. I also had envisioned using this occasionally on my lawn where I split wood but I am thinking I might should just forget that as it will tear up my lawn. If I want to move firewood with the FEL, no matter if it is R1 or R4, it might tear it up too bad such that I just need to forget that part? I suppose I could also relocate the splitter to my pasture.

I made a thread here a year ago about tires and the consensus seemed to be favoring ag tires. One poster said 8-ply. I don't know what ply rating tractor tires come with, meaning I don't know what these are. One fellow reported that he uses his tractor like I plan to and his R4 tires do ok. But a couple of other people said forget R4s, they are a joke in any mud or for woodlot use.

I have envisioned getting a forestry winch or some type of skidding gizmo to get logs out on an ongoing basis. Maybe occasional 'dirt work' here and there (my place, gf's place, brother's place) with the FEL or a box blade.

Do you have a favorite type and brand of tires, such as Firestone or Michelin? Can you trade in tires like R4s on this tractor to get R1 tires? How much do you think this will cost approximately? Heck, at my age, I wouldn't think I would ever wear out a set of tires, lol.

TIA for feedback on this, it's bugging me.

[47sawdust]

I would run with the R4 tires and see how they work in your application.
They are easier on the lawn than R1 tires.

[thecfarm]

Is it 4 WD?

[Dom]

Ag tires are better in dirt, mud etc, but that doesn't mean R4 are horrible. We have R4 on our 60 HP Kubota, and us it for plowing at times in not ideal condition (3x16" furrow plow). We use it with a brush mower for 20 acres, snow blowing and other tasks.  We have Ag tires on a 2wd 50hp, and they do have more bit for sure, but the R4 do work ok on the 4wd. 

I would also use it as is, and you can change later if you really feel the need.

Are the rear tires loaded or rear wheel weights? 

[stavebuyer]

If I was ordering a new machine; I would spec R1. For general loader work, hard surface, or turf the R-4s are better and will outlast the R1s. Wet clay they suck. Since I no longer "have" to be in woods when its messy, R4s actually suit me just fine. I have a pair of compact 4x4 tractors one came wearing R1 and the other with R4s. 

If you need to play in the mud and snow ice chains on the R4s will do more than r1s without so buy the tractor and get chains if you have to. I haven't found my R4 tractor to be as much of a handicap as I thought it would be but as I said I can pick my days to work. When its sloppy I am feeding the woodstove and not having to play in the mud and snow.



 


 

[Gary_C]

R1's are better for traction (deeper and narrow lugs) and have more flexible side walls. They are not well suited for woods work as the rubber is softer and will cut easier.

R4's are for construction and are tougher and will give you longer life in rough and dirty terrain. The lower and wider lugs are not as good for traction but will not cut lawns as easy as R1's. The rutting of soft turf is more a function of weight and width (ground pressure) than of lug style. 

[PoginyHill]

I have R4 on my 70hp 4WD. Can ride on lawn without tearing it up. Mostly on decent terrain in summer, so traction has not been an issue. Use chains in the winter, so type of tire is somewhat negligible there.

[livemusic]

Is it 4 WD?

Yes it is.

[livemusic]

Ag tires are better in dirt, mud etc, but that doesn't mean R4 are horrible. We have R4 on our 60 HP Kubota, and us it for plowing at times in not ideal condition (3x16" furrow plow). We use it with a brush mower for 20 acres, snow blowing and other tasks.  We have Ag tires on a 2wd 50hp, and they do have more bit for sure, but the R4 do work ok on the 4wd.

I would also use it as is, and you can change later if you really feel the need.

Are the rear tires loaded or rear wheel weights?

No, they are not.

[mike_belben]

Youll be fine

[Dom]

Mike said it best.  ;)

[Southside]

I have R4's on my Lull and use it on hard surfaces and getting hay onto pastures which over the past few days went from hot, dry, and dusty, to frozen and 4" of snow, to now soft and greasy. Never have an issue with traction. 

Loaded tires and good and bad. You really don't want to be in the woods with a tractor if you need chains because of mud. They will just tear stuff up more. 

[livemusic]

What about leaving the bushhog on the back for counterweight when using the FEL to pick up large rounds to put in a utility trailer? On freshly logged ground (trees were actually pushed over by an excavator and I bucked the root balls and am bucking into rounds), lots of bumps and slash lying around. Would this be 'hard' on the bushhog and 3-pt, the jostling from rough ground?

[Southside]

Guess it depends on how rough the ground is. Dangling 600 lbs 20" in the air off the back of a pivot will definitely stress components if things get to bouncing around a lot.

I have broken enough stuff that I suspect I am no longer a fan of pushing equipment to it's absolute capacity. 

[Lostinmn]

We have the R4s on our LS as they are a good all-around compromise.  I've had no trouble skidding out logs or pushing some massive piles into the swamp (we have plenty of swamp here in northern MN, our high and low ground is only a few feet different :D).  With the 4 wheel drive I have only once or twice used the rear diff lock when I was digging out a large tree root at the edge of a meadow and was down deep in the ruts, and I still had the FEL as a back up.  



 

I'm with the rest of the guys, try'em as you already have them.  I found when I'm skidding logs in winter, the extra weight gives me plenty of traction in the snow for pulling. We don't have clay so I can't speak to that, but general woods/swamp hasn't been an issue for us. I suspect you will be fine.

PS I would defiantly get the tires loaded ASAP. Nice to have the extra wieght all the time vs having to put on a counter weight, and I like the extra weight for lifting logs with the grapple while the Farmi on the back which doesn't have the much weight itself.  

[stavebuyer]

Don't "over-think" it. A counter-weight will take weight off your front end. Bush hogs have been bouncing around hanging off 3pts hitches for decades. Drive it like you would like to keep it around for a couple years and you will be fine. Factory spec'ed loaders are engineered with relief valve and loader capacity designed not to overload the machine. 

[leeroyjd]

I believe R4s have a stronger sidewall with front end loader in mind.
Also-someone correct me if I'm wrong- you can not swap to regular ag tires in the future, rims are wider for R4.

[chevytaHOE5674]

Yeah swapping from R4s to R1s usually isn't easy. Finding R1s that will fit on your current rims and keep the proper front to rear ratio is often next to impossible. In my experience 99% of the time it requires different wheels making it very cost prohibitive.

The way some of you guys talk you would think your tractors are made of popsicle sticks and bubble gum. Hang a brush hog or whatever off the back for weight and go. Just remember its not Nascar and just because your tractor will drive 15mph doesn't mean you have to.

[btulloh]

Congrats on the tractor. I'm sure it will be a good tool and make things easier for you.  I'm concur with the R4's are fine crowd.

Just get started with what you have and see how it goes. The bushog is a decent counterweight but it adds a lot of length to your rig, so maneuvering in tight spaces could be more difficult. Don't know what the area looks like, so just watch for things when you're backing and turning. Heavy slash can be pretty hard on a tractor. Lots of things to snag hoses and filters or poke holes in things that don't need holes. Just get in there and pay attention to what's under you, behind you, and in front of you. 

Several people mentioned forks for the back. Really good thing to have and a better place to carry a real heavy log.  Make yourself a weight box on skids and carry it with the rear forks. Doesn't have to be fancy. I made a wood frame that holds 20 solid cinder blocks- 1000 lbs. works great. I just sit down and pull away when I want to use the rear forks for a log, then easily pick the box up when I need the counterweight. 

Enjoy your new tractor. Sounds like a good score. 

[TroyC]

I have R4s on my 48 hp TYM. They do fine in the woods but do load up with mud easily. I think they are heavier duty than ag tires which might make them a better choice for loader work. They do not tear the grass nearly as bad as the Ford with ag tires.

4wd likes matched tires, be careful on swapping sizes. 

[btulloh]

And by the way- get those tires filled. 

[livemusic]

And by the way- get those tires filled.

I just spoke with the seller about this. I mentioned filling with windshield washer fluid, I have heard of people using this. Do you think that is ok to use?
Supposed to deliver it in the morning.

[btulloh]

Get it filled with stuff that's made to fill tires. That's what they'll have at the tire place or wherever you have it done. There are a couple different things used these days. Calcium chloride is not being used any longer. And that's a good thing.

Edit:  I think i paid $50 a tire, or maybe $50 for two tires the last time I bought tractor tires. You couldn't buy enough washer fluid for anything close to that price. 

[PoginyHill]

And by the way- get those tires filled.

I just spoke with the seller about this. I mentioned filling with windshield washer fluid, I have heard of people using this. Do you think that is ok to use?
Supposed to deliver it in the morning.

In your neck of the woods, you'd be OK with pure water. Bug juice or "Rim Guard" (same thing) is a bit higher density than water, so you'd get more weight. But costs more. In the north Rim Guard is a must to prevent freezing.

[mike_belben]

i use washer fluid on garden tractors and its fine.

if the R4s spin theyll just spin.  when R1s spin you end up having a shorter step to get off the machine and go find another machine to get the first one out.  and a shovel to dig exit ramps out of the 4 holes you just dug down into.