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Homemade OWB

Started by bandmiller2, December 27, 2011, 07:41:36 AM

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bandmiller2

Been on the forestry forum a long time but not this section,just really discovered it.I built my OWB basically the HASA design, masonry with copper water tubes bedded in dry sand.Sorry I'am not up to speed on the picture thing.I have a cement firebox with a 1/4" reinforced steel plate over it, 180' of 3/4 copper over the plate reflective aluminum flashing over the copper tube and 12" of fiberglass insulation over that.Baseboard radiation in the house with some radiant floor heat. Has worked well for 10 years,also heats my water in the winter.My water temp seldom goes above 140 degrees but circulaters run constant,and home is comfy.My question is the return water to the boiler is almost the same temp. as the hot coming from the boiler does that meen I need more radiation in the house.?? Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

doctorb

Radiant heat acts like that with OWB's, as, once the flooring is up to temp, it stays that way.  So the drop in temp after the radiant system is up to speed is pretty slight.  During the time of start up, your return temps will be significantly lower.  Do you have the standard recirculating system for your radiant heat which lowers the temp fo the water to around 125-135 degrees, or do you set the temp on your OWB at 140 becaasue that's what you are targeting as the circulating temps in the floor?  Is the OWB directly plumbed into the flooring radiant heat or is the heat exchanged to a separate indoor heating system?
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Holmes

Hi Frank. At 140 degrees your baseboard radiation delivers about half of the btu's that 180 degrees gives you but. It sounds like you have a very well balanced system . You are delivering just the right amount of heat to overcome the heat loss to the outside. That is one of the best ways to heat your house for comfort.  If you want the circulators to shut off you will need to get the boiler hotter. That will put out more btu's and make the pumps go on and off.  The feed and return temps being so close together means you are keeping up with your heat loss in your situation.  You do not need more radiation inthe house.  If you want to chat on the phone with me , PM me.    Holmes
Think like a farmer.

bandmiller2

Thanks for the quick replys guys.My system is simple no thermostats and is self regulating when its cold, better draft, and it burns hotter when it warms up fire slows down.I have two zones and each has its own circulator.The radiant floor is heated with return water from the baseboard units and I can bypass regulate if it gets too hot.I have a spare circulator circuit if the power goes out at night or if I'am not home.I installed a holding relay,if the power goes off it switches on an inverter that runs the spare circuit and keeps the boiler from overheating.For the first eight or so years the copper lines above the firebox plate were covered with sand,the steel plate would overheat and it burned through last winter.Replaced the 1/4" plate this summer and didn't put the sand back just put reflective aluminum and insulation over them.Big improvement heats faster and uses much less wood.All in all I'am very happy with the system glad the oil guy is not a buddy, haven't seen him in years Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

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