TF addition

[nas]

Got started on the raising today.  We had a bit of snow overnight, but that didn't slow us down.  Start of the day


 
first bent going up


 
adding girts


 
Next bent going up


 
end of the day


 
More tomorrow.  Going to bed now

[Jay C. White Cloud]

 8) Looking Great!!! 8)

[samandothers]

Fantastic!    8)

Looking forward to the finished frame!

[frwinks]

looks awesome, guess you didn't need an extra hand having TWO cranes on site... ;D _grin

[nas]

Yup I had lots of help 8)

We got the third bent up this weekend.


 
Didn't have a photographer this time so I didn't get to many pictures.  Just have to tighten it up and drive the pegs and the frame is done.

Nick

[nas]

So the frame is up and now I am starting on the shell.  My plan is to put 5/8 thick strips on the outside of the timbers and frame against that.  Then I can slide the drywall behind the timbers.  The shell will be 2x4s horizontally spaced 24" with 2" rigid on the outside of that, then strapping and siding.  Any reason why I should do it any differently?  Your input would be appreciated.

Nick

[frwinks]

Sounds like a solid plan and glad to hear the frame is up.  Getting lucky with this non-winter weather we're having. 
Where are you getting your rigid board from?  If you want to get more R/inch, I'd suggest Polyiso.  Roofmart in Brampton has the best prices in town as they're a direct distributor of IKO products.  You can get it in either foil faced or fiber faced.  Really good stuff, cheaper than the DOW xps and more R/inch.  They can also supply you with the long structural screws you'll need to secure it all to the frame, just ask for Deckfast screws in whatever length you need.  Don't forget to get a skid of spray foam cans, that stuff goes fast ;D 

[Stephen1]

WOW, Nas looking great, I just found this post. What a great project for you and the kids to have.  I wish I had seen it sooner I would have loved to come to the raising.
Drop me a note anytime you need some help. I'm serious I am off weekdays all winter.
stephen

[Jay C. White Cloud]

Hi Nas,

For my "two cents," I would make the 5/8" strip thicker, (like as much as 2",) it can create a really nice "shadow line," and makes the frame jump out  from the wall.  I would go with at least an 1".  If you go with rigid foam, (I do a lot,) I try for "polyiso," when ever I can.  As for your "thermal/mechanical," envelope, have you ever considered a "wall truss" system?  (Sometime called a "Larson Truss.")  I use them almost exclusively now, and can't recommend them enough.  I don't mind "stress skins," on the roof, (or their equivalent,) but I will not put them on walls and make clients sign wavers if they do.  Just way too may challenges and potential problems.

I will try posting some photos of "wall trussing" when I get a chance.  You can go out and do a search to see some in use.  We have a really nice jig set up that is over 6 meters (20') long.  You take  50 mm x 125 mm (2"x5") stock, rip a 50 mm x 50 mm off of it, then feed them back into the jig together.  Then with a Makita Chain Mortiser, plunge through the center of the stock ever 500 mm (18").  You then can make the "wall trussing" as wide as you like.  Our minimum is 250 mm (10") but prefer 400 mm (16") or larger.  Does that make a thick wall? yes, but that is an asset most of the time, and wiring, plumbing; you name it, it all just go a lot easier, kind of like the "giant" chases you see in commercial work.  Wiring can just be laid on a "channel board," because there isn't any need to drill through anything, and in the future, if you want to add or change something, it's a snap.

Regards,

Jay

[Geeg]

So the frame is up and now I am starting on the shell.  My plan is to put 5/8 thick strips on the outside of the timbers and frame against that.  Then I can slide the drywall behind the timbers.  The shell will be 2x4s horizontally spaced 24" with 2" rigid on the outside of that, then strapping and siding.  Any reason why I should do it any differently?  Your input would be appreciated.

Nick

Hi Nas, Yes that is a good idea. I did this with mine and it worked like a charm. It also gives you room to run electrical wiring but looks like you could just run it in the walls. When the 1/2 inch drywall went up it gives you a little gap to be able to prime and paint by hand.

Here is a shot of what it might look like.


Good luck and more pics please!  Great looking addition BTW!!

[nas]

Thanks for the comments guys
Raff thanks for that IKO info.  I will probably use that product.
Steve, thanks for the offer.  I do have lots of help from friends and family, but that might wear out soon :D
Jay, I would be interested in seeing some pictures of your larson truss system.

Nick

[Jay C. White Cloud]

Hi Nas,

Here are a few photos, and if you go out on the "web," you will find a bunch of stuff on them.  Good luck, and keep us informed of your progress.  I have a few ideas for starting new posts, one is "wall truss systems," when I get the time I will.

Regards,

jay

Non-mortise and tenon type wall truss system.


View along wall.


"gusset type" wall truss system.

[samandothers]

Nas, Great progress!

Jay I would be interested in reading about the wall truss system for the advantage of other framing. 

[nas]

Moving along on the addition.  We have the walls framed and we are working on the roof. 


 
We are actually a lot farther along on the roof, but it was dark by the time we were done today, so I didn't get a picture.  I hope to have the roof on by the end of Saturday

Nick