iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Beginner to start cutting firewood

Started by Jigzor, July 09, 2016, 08:43:04 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Jigzor

Hello all,

I am closing on a house that is somewhat rural that comes with an outdoor wood boiler and 2 acres. It may be the thing I am most excited about being a home owner. I am also what some of my coworkers who are farmers refer to as "city boy". I've operated equipment before but never a chainsaw. I've talked with coworkers about saws, what to get, etc but am still looking for more info. I'm a decent size guy 6'3" 260lbs so the weight I am not very concerned(which could be me being naive). I was first looking at Stihl MS391 but after research have concluded it to essentially be junk with plenty of problems. Suggestions have been Husqvarna 455/460 Rancher and 372XP. I do not know what size wood I will be cutting just that it will be for the wood boiler. I am the type of person that has a healthy respect for power but I also feel the 372XP is more saw than I can handle right now and more saw than I probably need. I am open to all brands as I don't have an "alliance". Thanks for your help!

farmguy

Hey welcome. I have a 460 rancher with a 24 inch bar. Its a good firewood saw but if your cutting hardwood i would go to a skip chain. In between the 460 and 372 are lots of good options like the 562xp's or the 555. Or even the 550xp

jdonovan

I have a 372, and I think it is a bit big for a new saw user, and it is bigger than I use for firewood cutting. My primary saw for smaller (<14") wood, is a Sthil 025, a MS250 would be the current version. The 372 cuts faster, but it gets heavy fast. If you find yourself in bigger wood often, then a bigger saw might be useful. But I would definitely start with a smaller saw and then decide if you want, or need an upgrade. I used the 025 for 10 years of firewood cutting, and it wasn't until I started doing clearing of a lot that I found a need for a bigger saw.

You definitely should invest in some safety gear if you don't already have. Chainsaw chaps. If the saw makes contact with the chaps it pulls fibers from the chaps that quickly stops the chain, and greatly reduces injury. When cutting down trees I really like to have a helmet on, as all sorts of stuff comes out of trees when you start cutting.


DelawhereJoe

From what others have posted the echo 590 timberwolf is the best bang for the buck, 60cc around $400. Don't forget about the 465 rancher too, you could always go red and try a jonsered 2166 or the husky 365, both 70cc saws.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

DelawhereJoe

Oh and its always a good thing to have 2 saws, in the event you get one bar pinched so badly you can't remove it you can use the other saw to free it, or at least 2 bars and chains. I had to go rescue a buddy of mine that had a mulberry tree pinch the bar of a rental saw.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

tranabo_bjoern

For firewood cutting here in Sweden I run a Husqvarna 460 Rancher II with 20 and 24 inch bar, chisel or semi chisel chains. Its good for the most. Over here we have lots of soft and medium hard wood, some oaks.

For smaller jobs I have a Jonsered 2238 with 16 Inch bar. My point is, never run one saw alone since one is easily stuck and you need to cut out the other. Second the weight. When you carry all day long a saw the weight is a factor.

Jut added a Husky 395 for heavy jobs with 20 inch bar.

What manufacturer you should select depends on the service you can get. We have a Husky service point one mile away. If yours is a Stihl, ok. Go for a Stihl. Husqvarna, Jonsered (which is Husqvarna), Echo, Dolmar are in the same league. You will not regret selecting your saw also by this selector.

When you runs the saw in cold conditions, consider a saw with heated handles. On Husqvarna saws the carburator is then heated as well. In cold environment it is good to have a mesh filter (http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaw-Parts/Chainsaw-Air-Filters/OEM-Heavy-Duty-Air-Filters-for-Husqvarna-Chainsaws/Husqvarna-537-44-44-03-OEM-Air-Filter-Heavy-Duty-44-Mesh-for-394-395-XP-Chainsaws-537444403.axd) should be on your equpment pack.

I am running my Husky 61 with this filter in the cold (below 32 F) and the saw runs fine. The standard filter may clogg and the saw dies.

Just some ideas to have fun with your saws.

Best wishes from Sweden (feels like the Yupper in MI)
Just do it!

Husky 395xp 20 inch bar
Husky 460xp x-torq Rancher 24 and 20 inch bar
Husky 61 18 inch bar
Jonsered 2234 14 inch bar
McCulloch cs 380 18 inch bar

ladylake

Quote from: DelawhereJoe on July 09, 2016, 11:02:52 PM
From what others have posted the echo 590 timberwolf is the best bang for the buck, 60cc around $400. Don't forget about the 465 rancher too, you could always go red and try a jonsered 2166 or the husky 365, both 70cc saws.

By far the best bang for the buck for a saw the runs real good.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

CTYank

For general felling/bucking/limbing, IMO once you're talking 60 cc and up as heavy artillery, you're talking 40 cc or thereabouts for your second saw. In most circumstances I've encountered, the smaller one will get the majority of the runtime, cutting up tops & limbs.
One prime candidate: Dolmar CS-421. Check the price- forget 250/251 with that kind of value.
Besides protective equipment, get some locals to boost your learning-curve and always keep wedges handy. Can't have too many wedges. For one thing, great insurance against getting saw stuck.
You'll have lots to learn, for a long time. Good idea not to over-reach.
Cable winches are good for avoiding incidents, as are polesaws. It's all about walking out after. Good luck!
'72 blue Homelite 150
Echo 315, SRM-200DA
Poulan 2400, PP5020, PP4218
RedMax GZ4000, "Mac" 35 cc, Dolmar PS-6100
Husqy 576XP-AT
Tanaka 260 PF Polesaw, TBC-270PFD, ECS-3351B
Mix of mauls
Morso 7110

Jigzor

Quote from: jdonovan on July 09, 2016, 10:36:13 PM
I have a 372, and I think it is a bit big for a new saw user, and it is bigger than I use for firewood cutting. My primary saw for smaller (<14") wood, is a Sthil 025, a MS250 would be the current version. The 372 cuts faster, but it gets heavy fast. If you find yourself in bigger wood often, then a bigger saw might be useful. But I would definitely start with a smaller saw and then decide if you want, or need an upgrade. I used the 025 for 10 years of firewood cutting, and it wasn't until I started doing clearing of a lot that I found a need for a bigger saw.

You definitely should invest in some safety gear if you don't already have. Chainsaw chaps. If the saw makes contact with the chaps it pulls fibers from the chaps that quickly stops the chain, and greatly reduces injury. When cutting down trees I really like to have a helmet on, as all sorts of stuff comes out of trees when you start cutting.
Yes, I definitely plan on buying a set of chaps. I see Husqvarna has some for various prices. Is one set necessarily better than another?

thecfarm

Jigzor,welcome to the forum.
Not up on the new saws. But go to a dealer and talk to them. See if you like them. You will need a place to buy chains from and when you have problems or questions with the saw,they should be there to help you. Safety gear is real important. Dealer support is real important too.
What kind of OWB,outdoor wood boiler comes with the house you are buying? And congrats on the new house.
Lots to cutting down trees. Not just getting them on the ground,but choosing which ones to cut and which ones to leave. How will you get the wood out of the woods?
That 372 is on the big side. I have one,but I use to use all day long too. I have a 52cc saw,but that is kinda small,but I use it more than my 372 now. It's much lighter and easier on my body.It's a great limbing saw and cutting the small stuff. Like about a foot through.How big across are your trees?
Good luck to all that is ahead of you.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Jigzor

Quote from: thecfarm on July 10, 2016, 06:58:32 AM
Jigzor,welcome to the forum.
Not up on the new saws. But go to a dealer and talk to them. See if you like them. You will need a place to buy chains from and when you have problems or questions with the saw,they should be there to help you. Safety gear is real important.
What kind of OWB,outdoor wood boiler comes with the house you are buying? And congrats on the new house.
Lots to cutting down trees. Not just getting them on the ground,but choosing which ones to cut and which ones to leave. How will you get the wood out of the woods?
That 372 is on the big side. I have one,but I use to use all day long too. I have a 52cc saw,but that is kinda small,but I use it more than my 372 now. It's much lighter and easier on my body.It's a great limbing saw and cutting the small stuff. Like about a foot through.How big across are your trees?
Good luck to all that is ahead of you.

Thank you! It's a Central Boiler. Fortunately, we have a friend that has free wood down and just needs to be cut up. I don't know what kind or size of it. It's better than having to pay for a truck to deliver it. I'd like to plant a few more trees to decrease visibility from the other property near by.

jdonovan

I don't see much of a difference in performance between chap brands. Get a pair that fits you well.

When you are in the store checking out saws, find one you think you like, and if the store is quiet enough see if they will let you hold on to it for 10min. Most saws feel fine when you pick them up, but for some reason get a lot heavier after a few minutes. Pretend to cut some wood laying on the ground. Can you do it from standing, or are you bent way over?

A few people have mentioned local dealer support. Its just a matter of time before a saw needs some shop time. Things wear out, murphy happens etc... Some of the lower end homeowner are very expensive to repair because they were not designed for lots of use,
and because of their design can't have some small part replaced, you have to replace large assemblies.

Let us know where you are located. We have FF members all over the place, and I'm sure someone would trade some free labor to let you learn to run a saw.  :D



opticsguy

OUCH!!!  I just bought a Stihl MS391, why is it junk?  Very pleased with mine but too heavy for a firewood saw, at least for me, a 90 pounds smaller than you. I use it for cut down big trees and with a rip chain for ripping. I use a lighter saw for most of me cutting. Two chainsaws is highly recommended!!
TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

kenskip1

I'm new, what part of the Arctic Circle are you living in?What type of free wood do you have?Central Boiler was very popular when I lived in Upstate NY.Your location is  not listed.I wood not take Stihl out of the picture. The 441 wood suit you very well, Ken
Stihl The One
Stihl Going Strong
Stihl Looking For The Fountain of Middle Age

celliott

An MS391 is not junk, it's simply a different class of saw. Yes, it's cheaper made, that's why it costs less than an MS362, or why a husky 455 costs less than a 562xp. Different design, materials, etc.
The homeowner\rancher type saws certainly will cut alot of wood, nothing wrong with them.
For more money, you get a more rugged construction, better power and less weight.

I would suggest a Husqvarna 555 or Jonsered 2258 personally.
Definitely get some good safety gear, steel toe boots, chaps, helmet at the minimum. And WEAR them!
Invest in a good filing system (there are many choices) and learn to use it well. I like the Husqvarna roller guide with combo depth gauge. A sharp chain trumps power, pro saw, skip chain, ported saw, whatever. A dull chain is hard on you, the saw, and just plain sucks.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

DelawhereJoe

Everything is going to come down to dealer support for whatever brand you choose.  I'd also say get the best saw you can afford and take into account a few chains, safety gear, sharpening tools, log handling hooks to move logs so you can cut them and not but your bar into the ground. You can easily dump way more money into everything then you wanted or had originally planned on.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

Jigzor

Quote from: opticsguy on July 10, 2016, 09:19:40 AM
OUCH!!!  I just bought a Stihl MS391, why is it junk?  Very pleased with mine but too heavy for a firewood saw, at least for me, a 90 pounds smaller than you. I use it for cut down big trees and with a rip chain for ripping. I use a lighter saw for most of me cutting. Two chainsaws is highly recommended!!

Didn't mean to dismiss the saw or cause rift. I've seen some good reviews on the saw but I see more reviews with negative feedback, including on Stihl's site.

As for dealer, I am fortunate. I have several Stihl dealers local along with Husqvarna local and more near my work.

I'm located in north eastern Pennsylvania.

Czech_Made

Welcome, Jigzor.

I have close to 4 acres, but only firewood I cut is for outdoors, no place to burn wood indoors.

I got Husqvarna Rancher few years ago and I am quite happy with it.

Edit:  But I improved it somewhat, changed the drive to sprocket rim system, I like it better than the original Rancher solution.

gspren

   Welcome to a great forum, I also found it researching chainsaws although I've been cutting firewood for near 50 years (that don't seem possible for a young guy like me). If possible try to actually run some of each brand you're considering, my current favorite all around saw is a Stihl 261 but I have an old Stihl 044 for the big stuff. You may find that a Stihl feels better in your hands than a Husky or the other way around, substitute the Dolmar and Echo names in there in any order, if it don't feel "right" don't let a good deal sway you. JMHO, good luck and be safe.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, Kubota 400 RTV, Kubota BX 2670, Ferris Zero turn

jdonovan

the 261 is a GREAT saw. If the budget is there, its hard to beat.  4hp 11lbs. If that saw won't do it, then you really need to step up 2 saws to the 461, which is 6hp, and 14.6lbs, add a chain and bar, and that's a 16+lb pounder, and a HEAVY saw at the end of the day, and I don't know too many who would consider that a 'firewood' saw.

Fokke

Don't get too hung up on reviews. You can't believe everything you read on the Internet.

What I suggest you do is become friend with a professional logger and get him to show you the trade and try his saws. Then you see what to do. And learn hand sharpening.

John Mc

Quote from: Czech_Made on July 11, 2016, 10:31:54 AM
I got Husqvarna Rancher few years ago and I am quite happy with it.

Edit:  But I improved it somewhat, changed the drive to sprocket rim system, I like it better than the original Rancher solution.

I did the same thing to my cousin's 460. He tends to beat the heck out of it and run it well past the point where the chain is dull. So every time I visit I do some basic maintenance - usually deburr & square up the bar, sharpen chains, check the mixture, etc. This last time I removed his old clutch drum with the worn out spur sprocket and replaced it with the rim sprocket.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

DelawhereJoe

A good friend of mine has a 455 rancher and loves it, but he only cuts 1/2 - 1 cord per year. It cuts well with a sharp chain, he never took the time to learn to sharpen a chain and I don't think he wants to learn, so when it starts pulling dust he buys a new chain and tosses the old one.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

John Mc

Quote from: DelawhereJoe on July 12, 2016, 09:03:49 AM
A good friend of mine has a 455 rancher and loves it, but he only cuts 1/2 - 1 cord per year. It cuts well with a sharp chain, he never took the time to learn to sharpen a chain and I don't think he wants to learn, so when it starts pulling dust he buys a new chain and tosses the old one.

I don't suppose you have a saw that takes the same size chain he uses?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

khntr85

Well first off you will be cutting quite a bit of wood, so a crash course in safety as these guys have said is very true... I have a OWB and love it, but I like cutting wood too lol.... As far as saws go MANY would fit the bill.... If you just want to get a saw with a 18-20" bar get a ms250 or ms290 or any other brand equivalent.... Yes a lot of people here will say it's not a pro saw its junk....well not true, they have kept people warm for years.... The ms250 with a 18" bar was my only saw for a few years some time ago, I can't tell you how many times I had that 18" bar buried in some of Indianas hardest woods... Yes I have a ms362 and ms461 now but these "clamshell" saws will work for you for now....

   Also who knows what the future holds you may get sick of cutting wood and loading your OWB when it is minus 10* and blowing hard outside!!!

Thank You Sponsors!