Threading wood to replace inserts

[21incher]

can you provide a link to the legs?

I went back to check and it says no longer available so it looks like I got the last ones on clearance. I was going to buy every set they had left  . Amazon has similar ones by different  vendors but they are in the 37 to 40 dollar range for a set if you search. Not fancy but good for utility stools and tables. I wanted Ritelegs but it's the end of the year budget that won.

[doc henderson]

I had too and did not find those.  however, my 9-piece set of taps came in today!  same infinity brand.

[peakbagger]

A lot of Amazon users do not know about Amazon Warehouse. I always go there to see if they have what I am looking for. Most of it is returned stuff. "Used like new" is usually an opened package. I have only had an issue once where someone had repackaged a used part as new. The same Amazon guarantee applies so if its in rough shape or not what I want, I just drop it off at the local UPS store and they refund me, no repacking required. It is usually 20 to 30% off. I usually skip the lower categories like "Used Acceptable" The thing to be aware of is that it is not just Amazon selling used, some manufacturers also list items and sometimes their prices are higher than new.  Most of my best deals are the small stuff, I needed a mechanical twist timer for  120 VAC, I got a GE version for half the price of new one.

[Old Greenhorn]

Well, I really prefer the Rite Legs and almost always use theirs, but I did have a client specifically request hairpin legs, so I found a company and they are not bad, they started making tube and flat steel legs last year, but I just checked and their prices are getting up there from when they started with these.
I'm not pushing somebody else over Rite legs, but the company is called hairpinlegs.com. Again there quality is 'ok' but not on a par with the Good guys. Also, there is a secret room at logrite nobody really knows about. When I order big legs I often drive over to pick them up, it saves on shipping and also wear and tear on expensive legs during shipment. When I am there I ask Shaina very nicely if I can peek in the room and have found some discontinued or scratched items they can make me a little deal on. But don't tell anybody about that please.

[Larry]

I couldn't even buy the paint for what ya paid for those legs.  I'll take a 1,000!  My only thought is if the holes are big enough to allow for a little seasonal wood movement.

That's a good looking stool and I like the finish, is it oil? 

[21incher]

I couldn't even buy the paint for what ya paid for those legs.  I'll take a 1,000!  My only thought is if the holes are big enough to allow for a little seasonal wood movement.

That's a good looking stool and I like the finish, is it oil? 

With free 3 day shipping from California.  Guess they may be trying to dump inventory of items there are only a couple left of before the end of the year. I am relying on the legs flexing for movement.  I only have 1/16 of clearance total in the holes but I think the Chinesium will flex because it's very thin wall tubing. If not, I can machine slots . I figured less then 1/8 movement in the 11 inch span. 
The first set of holes is 6 inches  apart so I used 6 x .0027= .0162 and I see about 9% to 12% in my wood content seasonal so I went with a 3% swing .0162 x 3= .0486 so that's what the first holes should shift under ideal conditions seasonally.  Time will tell but I think the flex will handle it. If not, I have some firewood and an education. 
I use Polycrylic on everything.  Here's a video about making it showing how I get a fast non glare finish with the gloss Polycrylic.  I don't like the tint of the satin one and my wife can'tstand outgassing of oil finishes..
Quick And Easy Live Edge Walnut Bench Build Using Commercial Legs - YouTube

[Crusarius]

I was surprised to see you using a foam brush with the polycrylic. Foam brushes will cause bubbles in the finish. Anytime I have tried to use foam I end up sanding it off and redoing it with bristle brush.

Overall that bench came out real nice. Got me thinking about the wood taps now.

Do you think you could skip the johnson paste wax step and still get the same results?

I think I should get some beeswax and start playing with that.

My go to finish lately has been danish oil but the smell is terrible. Part of the reason I love the danish oil is the way it brings the grain out. I have never been able to get the same results with just the polycrylic.

[Old Greenhorn]

Try using sanding sealer. It's not cheap, but it goes a long way. It makes all the fibers stand up to be sanded and also seals the wood, saving extra coats of finish. It dries fairly quick, put it on, et it dry, hand sand it with 220 paper (it goes quick), then apply your finish. I don't use it on everything, but when I do, I get nice results faster.

[21incher]

I was surprised to see you using a foam brush with the polycrylic. Foam brushes will cause bubbles in the finish. Anytime I have tried to use foam I end up sanding it off and redoing it with bristle brush.

Overall that bench came out real nice. Got me thinking about the wood taps now.

Do you think you could skip the johnson paste wax step and still get the same results?

I think I should get some beeswax and start playing with that.

My go to finish lately has been danish oil but the smell is terrible. Part of the reason I love the danish oil is the way it brings the grain out. I have never been able to get the same results with just the polycrylic.

That's all I use for the Polycrylic. Dip the brush  on the opposite side of the can that you wipe it on. I cannot get the same results without  a solvent paste wax first (trying to find a substitute though because of the temporary solvent smell).  Don't know what it is but the wax makes the Polycrylic degloss best without tinting and in about 30 days it hardens into a very durable finish. The secret seems to be sanding off the first 2 coats good and a thin final coat so it doesn't look like a plastic layer. I found Danish oil doesn't have the durability of Polycrylic after its cured.

Try using sanding sealer. It's not cheap, but it goes a long way. It makes all the fibers stand up to be sanded and also seals the wood, saving extra coats of finish. It dries fairly quick, put it on, et it dry, hand sand it with 220 paper (it goes quick), then apply your finish. I don't use it on everything, but when I do, I get nice results faster.

I tried that and find that I have better results with just using the polycrylic to raise grain and not affect  the clarity on walnut.  With polycrylic it takes about 6 hours start to finish including drying time and one can of finish so I stick with that. oaks are a different story  with big pores.

[Crusarius]

I agree with the durability thing. If I am worried about it I will use satin polycrylic over the danish oil after it stops off gassing.

[SwampDonkey]

Threaded wooden bolts in a table swift. The one on the left clamps the swift to a table. The one on the right supports the open umbrella. Made it 13 years ago. Still use it once in a while if I get skeinned yarns, they need to be wound onto spools or pirns for shuttles on the loom.

[21incher]

Got the 3 metric taps and finally got them organized.  Designed and 3d printed a holder for them to fit into one of the compact organizers then started  playing with the Kaizen foam in the bottom half of the organizer. That stuff is a real pain to work with.  Can score with my laser but makes a mess if I try to burn through. Bought a bunch of sheets of it and now think I am going to have to make a hot wire cutter for all the packout drawer inserts.


 

 

[doc henderson]

I got the 9-piece set with 6 sae and 3 metric. taps.  may have to contract with you to make me one. 

[21incher]

One thing to remember Doc is the drill size on the label is for softwood.  Supposed to go approximately 1/32 oversized  for hardwood.  I made some labels to remind me because the first try with sharpie rubbed off the container


 

 
I stuck another set underneath because I know labels get damaged.  Wish they sold a matching set of bits for them.
Round 2 will have storage for the bits under the taps.

[doc henderson]

I go to a "big tool store" in derby.  I bought a nice set of quality bit.  they also sell the same brand to replace any that break or are lost.  you could try a shop like that.  Let me know if you want to export one of those. 

I see countersinks.  what are the other items in your kit?

[Larry]

I always make a test thread in a piece of scrap from my project.  Use the same grain orientation.  I've found bit size can vary between species of hardwood.  Especially important with small threads.  I'll use number size drills to get the perfect hole.  I'm using standard metal taps and they are probably not as good as 21's taps.

[21incher]

I picked up this low end Fisch set that are pretty  good. I wanted  the higher end set but didn't want to spend the $300.00.  So far the hole sizes they call for have worked good. Doc those  other blocks with the holes are the big gator drill guides.  I always use them for perpendicular holes when drilling by hand. I also have their tap guides for metalworking.


 

[doc henderson]

nice set in a brad point.  what are the round collar things, depth stops?

[21incher]

Yes they are just cheap clamp on drill stops.  I didn't want to use the old set screw stops on these bits. I used to use painters tape but somehow it could slip and allow  break through turning  a project  into firewood.  The bits aren't  the best and leave some fuzz going in but leave a nice  clean hole. Their good set has much longer burrs for a cleaner start.

[SwampDonkey]

Dewalt has some nice brad point, pricey. Also Lee Valley has even better. Again pricey. I also have a set from Festool (Lee Valley purchase) with hex shanks that are good to. Drilled a lot of holes this winter 1/4" into maple, no tear out. Only set on top of cardboard. Can't say that a couple lag bolts didn't tear a little though. ;D I never even put nuts on the bolts, that's how stable it is. But I only built a prototype of what I am using for now. It's a 'draw bridge' on the loom. Weaving lingo, it's a lot like science fiction: warp, shuttle, bridge that sort of thing. Warp six yards, make it sew number one. I'm giving it all she's got, but it just won't sew, Captain. I can only get it to weave. :D :D

[21incher]

The Lee Valley bits are some of the best. They buy high carbon USA steel bits and regrind them to their specs. The Fisch bits are supposed to be made in Austria but there is no country of origin anywhere  on the packaging and they look like and cut like higher end Chinese bits to me.

[Larry]

Got a link to this video in my email this morning. Guy runs strength tests on wood inserts versus direct wood threads.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4SnrbGwGpI
It was interesting. The comments were just as interesting as the video with lots of pro's and cons.