Should we split in the woods?

[Al_Smith]

You probabley wouldn't want to cut it down and split it in somebodys residental yard .In the woods it wouldn't matter .

Just depends I suppose .Sometimes I snake them out to a clearing in the woods  then split them .Sometimes I cut them up and dump them in another area until I get a big pile then attack them .

A big tree it's a lot easier to haul the splitter to the wood than vica versa.

[Wallys World]

This has been a great response to my question. I have been cutting wood for over 40 years (oh my!) and have done it many ways. It is great to see other ideas on seeing if we can do it better. In fact tomorrow I'll be heading in our woods to tackle a large blow down Maple that has been down a couple of years (and up off the ground). I have a women in need of wood and we are out of seasoned wood right now. Hopefully I can get a couple of loads cut and split tomorrow. Today it is 67 degree and sunny, tomorrow around 55 and partly cloudy. A lot of snow went away today, we got 12 inches (rare for us).

[yellowrosefarm]

The first 2 years with the OWB, I either cut rounds in the woods and hauled them to a central pile to be split or took the tractor and 3 point splitter to the rounds, split them and hauled them to a central pile. This year, I hauled the whole logs from the woods to the central pile, put them one at a time on my loader forks, held the log over the pile and sawed off the rounds. Then instead of splitting the whole pile of rounds like I did before, I've only been splitting a couple of truck loads a week to refill my portable wood shed (silage wagon). That cut out 4 times handling the same piece of wood.

[scleigh]

Like everyone else, I was tired of handling wood so many time from the tree to the stove. A local textile mill that I deliver to, had a bunch of old textile buggies that they were going to scrap. They made me a killer deal on them, so now I spit my wood and load into these carts, let them dry till next season, then carry to the house with the tractor. Each holds 80 cubic feet of wood when full.



  

[John Mc]

Scleigh -  I've seen a guy do a similar thing by putting posts on the corners of a pallet, then wrapping it in that orange plastic snowfence material to create a box.  He's got plenty of them, so he just tosses the wood in, rather than stacking. It's a small enough pile that is dries fairly well tossed in that box and left out in the sun and wind.

[currantvt]

I am storing in bulk bags from Dinobags in PA , they seem to hold about a third of a cord if you fill them right up, 1500lbs or so looking at the wheels on my forklift tractor. I'm hoping that the wood will dry enough in them to avoid touching it until I wheel them into the basement using a pallet jack. The bag material is not UV proof so store out of direct sun - open sided shed would be ideal.First year trying them so will see how it goes, if it works I will be handling each log 2 fewer times - worth a shot for that.   

[John Mc]

I'll be interested to see how those Dino Bags work out for you. I wonder how well the "ventilated fabric" works for drying the wood.

How much did the bags cost you?

Unfortunately, the loader on my compact tractor won't lift one of their bags full of green hardwood...

[currantvt]

Apologies for hijacking this thread. They are about $13 inc shipping and they should last for 3 years even outside according to the manufacturer- not sure I would want to try that. I made a stand to hold the bag out of a scaffolding tower , that works ok and is light enough to move out of the way, the loops are held with luggage bunjies. Full they do seem wobbly on uneven ground- maybe if filling in the woods it might be safer to part fill them. I see that OESCO in Conway MA are selling them - $13.25.

[Philbert]

There are used 'SuperSacks'/bags available all over the Internet.  You might find a source close to you.

Also a bunch of net wrapping methods to palletize firewood on YouTube (not intending to promote any specific product):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gU06-hjizo0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hD30ZippyoU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2WzrsFKuGk

If you have the equipment to move and store pallets, you can save a lot of handling.

*If you don't, these might still give you some ideas!

Philbert

[Wallys World]

I tried this way this morning. I cut the wood to length and hauled it out with the gator to the driveway where I had the splitter and trailer set up. Seemed to work pretty good. Split the load as I brought it out. 

  

 

[Oliver1655]

I have a pile of logs ranging from 8' to 12' long by 7' high by 75 long to process.

Initially I had planned to build a log processor & even have most of the parts on hand for it. However considering the shorter lengths & bends in the logs I decided on building a "LOG BUCKING TRAILER" instead. I figure there to be thousands of potential rounds in the pile which keeps growing & there is no way I am bending over to cut most of the logs & then pick them back up off the ground.  It just ain't happening!

If it works like I hope, it would also be handy at some of the charity cuts we do where there will be piles of logs.

Goals:
- To be able to load several logs at a time.
- Have logs being bucked at a comfortable height for cutting.
- Once the log went on the stand the wood would NOT hit the ground again which would mean cleaner wood & easier on the back.
- Better flow of processing.
- Be able to keep 5-6 people productively processing. 8-9 people of 2 splitters are in use. If it works like I hope, it would also be handy at some of the charity cuts we do.

(Remember it is a work in progress.)

Let the Photos Begin!​

(The 2x4s on the yellow arms are to simulate a log.) I will be adding 2 more log supports between the 2 in place & will tie them to each other for strength & stability. They are on 20" centers to keep them over the trailer's frame.



 
Log Bucking Trailer 14 ft long

The trailer is 14'5" long using 3" channel iron on 20" centers resting on 8"x4" I-beams with a 7,000# mobile home braking axle & 14 ply tires. On the other side as you look through the expanded metal is the walk way the saw operators will be standing on. The near side will have an "L" shaped fold down side which will make it a 30" deep landing area with a 5-1/2" high lip where the cut rounds will hopefully end up. This will help to keep the rounds clean & off the ground. (Much easier on the back & faster, to not have to lift the rounds off the ground!)

The center section between the deck boards, the "bucking stand", is removable & could be used on a longer trailer if needed. I also have a 24' long aluminum walk board I could clamp to the walk way if I run into longer logs or find I need a higher walk-way.

For now I will be using drop down legs in the corner stake pockets to stabilize the trailer & help the axle to support the extra weight of the logs. I will lower the tongue, set the back pair of legs, next raise the tongue & set the front pair, and finally remove the tongue to get it out of the way.



 

The wiring on the tongue will have plugs on both ends to simplify removal. The hole in the channel iron is for a 7blade trailer receptacle. I haven't made the receiver for the trailer yet.



 

Again pretending the 2x4's are a log, this shows the 17" gap between log being cut & the catch ramp. This should allow for a log up to 32" to be cut easily. I have the 2x6 on the walkway side for 3 reasons: 1 - It will hopefully keep the round from hitting toes. 2 - Makes a measuring guide for cutting. The green line is 15" centers & the red lines is 20" centers. 3 - It just might save a chain or leg having the wood there as a safety catch. I am using heavy gauge expanded metal for the ramp. Hopefully it will allow the saw chips/dust to fall through to the ground. I was also concerned if it is windy & I used deck boards, the wind would use the ramp to throw the saw chips/dust into the saw operator's face.



 

The "Walk Way": I will be sliding the bucking stand to the left a couple of inches to make a gap between it & the decking for rain & wood chips to fall through. The railing will be around 42" high & will have a couple of boxes on the outside to set chain saws, hook-a-roon, log-cant in. It will be hinged at the bottom so I can lean it towards the log buck during transport. I will bolt supports to the frame between the stake pockets so when the railing is folded into position, it will be sturdy.

You can't see it but there is a receiver hitch welded under the frame on the back. This is why the reflective tape has burn spots in it. :(

Total weight of trailer & bucking stand will be approximately 2,400lbs. I plan to hook it behind my splitter for transport then behind it a single axle 12' mower trailer which can carry an ATV & be used on site for moving wood. The 12' trailer is made from 3" channel iron & has a 7,000lb mobile home axle with brakes. I can haul a cord of wood easily.

Update:  Other than the railing & fold out catch tray, it is done. I will try to take & upload new photos later this weekend.

Maybe this idea will work for someone else.

[Philbert]

I tried this way this morning.

Looks like a pretty efficient set up.

I decided on building a "LOG BUCKING TRAILER"

Looks interesting.  Not exactly clear how wood will flow, but hope to see it in action.

Philbert

[Oliver1655]

Log Buck Trailer

Logs are set on top. As the rounds are cut they land on the inclined expanded metal which directs the wood to the side away from the saw operator(s) but the rounds will stay on the trailer. 

The splitter is stationed beside the this side of the trailer so you have minimal steps from bucking trailer to splitter & will not have to pick the cut rounds up off the ground while loading the splitter.  I have a long bed to my log splitter which will make it easy to keep the splitter operator supplied.  I will also be able to rest the end of the log lift on the edge of the trailer to I can just roll heavy rounds from trailer to splitter with out lifting by hand which will cut down on noodling.

Since the trailer is 14' long, there could be a splitter at each end thus several people can be helping at the same time.

I have to swap a transmission & rebuild the left front wheel assembly on another vehicle this weekend so I won't be able to put it into use.  Hopefully next week end I will have things in place & photos to better illustrate it's use.

[Philbert]

Thanks for the additional info. Couple of constructive comments?

I hope that the expanded metal will hold up to the dropping logs - I wonder if you would benefit from having some type of 'bang plate' (or even heavy rubber) at the points of contact to distribute the impact?

If the logs on the top level are in contact with each other, I am thinking about potential kickback issues when you cut through.  You will have to cut with the guide bar held somewhat vertically to keep the nose/tip clear of the next log.

Philbert

[Oliver1655]

The 2x6 will help with the dropped rounds but the expanded metal is a heavy gauge so I am not too concerned. The gaps between the 3" channel iron supporting the expanded metal is around 17".  If the logs are larger than 24" diameter, they will most likely be set to the side to go to the saw mill.

I will have saws with 25", 17" & 14" bars on hand to help limit the risk of kick back. There is normally gaps between logs as most of the trunks are not real straight.  I don't figure the risk for kick back will be any different than if I was cutting in a pile on the ground.  I am very conscious of where the tip is & normally cut close to the tip to help keep the tip from hitting objects other than the log I am currently cutting.

I am chomping at the bit to put it into operation, but again this is vehicle repair weekend.

[Oliver1655]

Not to steal this thread, but as the log bucking trailer will be used at several charity cuts, here is an update.
******************************************************************
Well finally had a chance to give the log bucking trailer a shake down run.


 

I started with a pile of logs on the stand about like this. Then when cut it gave me a pile of round like shown below. If you notice, there is a gap on the stop board of the round catcher fold down shelf, to roll large round directly onto the log lift. This is just a temporary stop. The permanent stop will be from metal. These boards are to help me decide a height. Don't want it any higher than it haves to be to make it easier to grab the rounds. There are enough rounds on each side of the log lift to fill it a couple of times from both sides.



 

Load the log lift, start splitter then stand on the other side of the splitter & go to town.




 

This is what a pile of log on the bucking stand looks like split. I separated the cherry & the hedge from the rest which is mostly oak with some locust & elm.

Used the Jonsered CS-2139T - 12" bar & Husqvarna 338XPT - 14" bar. I could have used the Stihl 08-s with a 17" bar on a few of the logs but was too lazy to go get it. I wanted to stick to the shorter bars for maneuverability & decrease the risk of kick back.



 

Loaded from this side. Had a board across the side to keep from stepping off. I wanted to see if the walkway needed to be higher before building the railing. Under the trailer on the right side you can barely see the removable tongue laying out of the way.

************************************************************************************************************
Things I haven't had time to finish:
- The fences for both ends to keep the rounds on the trailer. It will need to be around 24" high to keep the rounds from bouncing over it.
- The metal stop which will go where the single height boards are on both sides of the log lift.
- The round catcher has the outer 3 boards hinged so it can be folded up for transport. When I bolt the metal stop on, it will have legs to give the shelf support.
- Bolt down points between the trailer frame & the bucking stand. Right now it is just sitting on there. I had strapped it in place & took it down the highway to check how it handles & was pleased. No sway at 65 mph.

Thing to add/change:
- I thought the walkway was too low but I wanted to try it at bed height first. Yep, I will be building a couple of storage boxed to go on the walkway around 12 - 14" high to stand on. They will be handy for storing firewood tool on the road.
- I load from the walkway side so I will be adding uprights on the backside of the bucking stand so I will not have to worry about logs falling off.
- Will be cutting off the middle 2 supports of the bucking stand and will add a bridge 4-6" below the angle iron to support them so it will be easier to retrieve the cut rounds.

Overall I am happy with the design. This afternoon working on my own, loaded, cut, split, & stacked on pallets 3 piles of log which gave me close to 2 cords of wood. I could have done more but I spent too much time splitting the cherry down to 1.5 - 2" diameter pieces to be used in smokers. :whistle:

It was so much easier on my back not having to pick all those round off the ground.

[Oliver1655]

Update:  On Mar 15th at a Charity Cut near Carthage, MO in 7 hours, a group of 5 adults & a handful of young'ns using the log bucking trailer, 2 dedicated horizontal splitters, & a skid loader, turned a pile of logs into 14 cords of firewood.

Some of the comments:
-  "Yeah this setup worked out well most of the time one saw operator could supply up to 3 splitters and no tripping over or bending to lift. It was a smooth transition from drop to load most of the time. We had a long pickaroon to reach and pull as it was piling up. It takes quite a few bodies to get rolling but it goes pretty dang fast."
-  "The trailer worked great !"
-  "That trailer is the bomb, Love that thing!"
-  "here is the fruit of our labor using that bad boy with the double splitter stations."
-  "Very slick..."

***********************************************************************
Some Photos:

- Transport mode:


 


 

Lower the "catch tray"


 

You can place a splitter at both ends of the catch tray & one in the middle.


 

If you have the log lift next to the gap in the fence, you can slid/roll rounds on to it instead of having to lift them.  This enabled the young'ns to load some really big rounds.

Now the setup:


 


 

There are 2 splitters next to the log bucking trailer:  The blue one in the middle & the orange one on the side.

Some loaded logs:


 


 


 

*********************************************************************
If you have a pile of logs to process, this is a great option!

It will next be used at a Charity Cut near Mansfield approximately 60 miles East of Springfield, MO on April 4th & 5th.  Volunteers are welcome.

[Philbert]

Nice.

Philbert

[yellowrosefarm]

14 cords in a day, that's gettin'er done! Great setup you have there.

[Oliver1655]

Thanks!  I really feel for the type of crooked logs we normally see, this is a better option than an actual log processor.

It will be getting a lot of use at charity cuts in addition to at home.

[Al_Smith]

First of all let me commend you all for your kind work  ,it's great .

In reality let me just say with enough help and several splitters 14 cords in a long day while a great effort is not out of the ordinary .As a matter of fact several years ago myself and one helper with just one splitter did 6 cords in about 7 hours which was already staged and bucked before hand .That was in 90 degree heat in July also and me 64 years old at the time .

The fall before with 5 guys and two splitters we did 6 cords in about 4 hours .

So what I'm saying is you will make better time if you keep the movement of handling the wood to a bare minimum .The more you handle heavy logs transporting or transporting processed wood the more time it will take .

[Al_Smith]

So in my opinion if you can process them where they fall or drag them to a central staging area,landing ,if that is possible you'll do better .A little tractor,4WD ,maybe ATV will drag a fair sized log .Save your energy for the bucking , processing etc .

[Oliver1655]

Al, your talking about bucked & staged wood being split.  I'm talking about logs being bucked & split.  The main goal is to be productive with a minimal amount of stress on the back.  With incorporating use of the log bucking trailer, there is no bending over to cut, no having to pick up rounds of the ground to move them to the splitters.  This also allow those with a little less muscle mass to be very productive.  At the end of the day, I am tired but my back is not screaming bloody murder.

Those of us who have used the trailer are glad to have it.  In our thinking it is working smarter, not harder.  If you have a method which suits you great. 

[Al_Smith]

Well I'm talking about larger stuff also like 2 and 3 feet diameter pieces .You can't lift those .Fact you have to roll them short of using a skid loader .Fact as I took out my window I'm looking into about 6-8 cords of oak mostly that large .

I recognise the fact it's probably compairing apples to oranges .

[Oliver1655]

I agree, I don't plan on using the log bucking trailer for logs larger than 24-26".  It would be too hard on the expanded metal.

We use a tractor/skid loader to load the bucking stand.  We can put several logs on at the same time so the saw operator can stay busy.