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Yellowhammer recommended Blade Guide Alignment Tool

Started by Hemlock121, July 08, 2024, 07:27:38 PM

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Hemlock121

Hi.

I was taking y'all s advise and was watching Yellowhammer's videos about the best methods to mill hardwoods.  In one of his alignment videos, he was recommending using two "Blade Guide Alignment Tools" perhaps from Woodmizer to ensure your blade is parallel and not pitched up or down like an airplane wing to ensure the best setup for flat wood. 

Honestly, I had never heard of a Blade Guide Alignment tool.  Do most of you use one and if so, how often are they used?  Is the WoodMizer the preferred guide?  Looks easy to clip onto the blade to ensure its flat and parallel to both roller guides.   Do some of you make your own guides?  If so, would you mind posting your versions?

Learn something new every day...

Thanks!

doc henderson

If the mill is level, you can use little magnetic levels as well.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

YellowHammer

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

KenMac

Cook's and perhaps other manufacturers provide similar tools.
Cook's AC3667t, Cat Claw sharpener, Dual tooth setter, and Band Roller, Kubota B26 TLB, Takeuchi TB260C

uler3161

If I get bad cuts and it's not obvious why (dull blade, hit something with blade, ran guide wheel into log), this is the tool I go to. Even if the mill cuts good, it's still a good idea to check once in awhile with this tool.
1989 LT40HD, WoodMaster 718

Dan

jpassardi

I have the woodmizer one, works well, nothing special about it. You could easily make one or two. However you connect it to the blade, you want the weight to be mostly symmetrical (not heavier on one end causing it to twist the blade). If made light enough it will be a non-issue.
If you have only one, just be sure to use it to set each side separately so each guide is parallel.
LT15 W/Trailer, Log Turner, Power Feed & up/down
CAT 416 Backhoe W/ Self Built Hydraulic Thumb and Forks
Husky 372XP, 550XPG, 60, 50,   WM CBN Sharpener & Setter
40K # Excavator, Bobcat 763, Kubota RTV 900
Orlan Wood Gasification Boiler -Slab Disposer

YellowHammer

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

barbender

The BGAT! Before I remembered to add one to an order, so I wouldn't pay $20 on shipping for the $10 tool (or whatever it was at the time) I had a couple of pieces of 1/8x1" aluminum flat stock I used with a clamp. It worked fine, the BGAT is much easier.
Too many irons in the fire

Peter Drouin

My 40 supper must be different, If I did it that way it would be a mess.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Magicman

I use the BGAT and check/align my blade guides as per the operator's manual.  

Either remove the power feed V belt or disconnect one wire from the power feed motor and the head rolls easily.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

YellowHammer

Remember, these are "heartbeat and blood pressure checks" and if a sawmill does not have these items correct, which can be checked in seconds if not minutes, then it will not cut straight.  Of course the LT40's and LT70 mills have different configurations, but the concepts are the same, especially the part about the idle side blade guide arm not being gorilla tight and the band having a twist in it or not being level to the bed using two BGAT's.   

The motivation for this video was from a lot of people who ask me why their mill doesn't cut straight.  Many have tried using the manuals but get lost in the details, some don't even have the manuals.  Even people on the Forum just this week have mentioned that this video has helped them through or indicated their alignment problems.  This is called the First Five for a reason, it is not all inclusive, but for the sawmills I have personally inspected or had people come into the shop or call asking for help, which is actually quite a few thanks to YouTube, (two this week) most of the time, these basic checks they can do easily themselves, will quickly indicate the problem.  I tell people I am not "Woodmizer North Alabama and they don't pay me" to troubleshoot their mills,  however, I DO want to help these folks, and these are quick checks they can do quickly and easily, pretty much on any mill, because the fundamentals are the same.  They can then go to the manual to fix them.   

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

GAB

Quote from: YellowHammer on July 09, 2024, 08:40:36 AMEven people on the Forum just this week have mentioned that this video has helped them through or indicated their alignment problems.  

Okay Mr. Milton:
I plead Guilty.
What are you going to sentence me to.
GAB
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

Dave Shepard

You can attach a piece of aluminum stock to the band with a heavy rubber band. I would go slightly wider than 1/8", if I was going to make my own for stability. 
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

YellowHammer

Quote from: GAB on July 09, 2024, 10:26:54 AM
Quote from: YellowHammer on July 09, 2024, 08:40:36 AMEven people on the Forum just this week have mentioned that this video has helped them through or indicated their alignment problems. 

Okay Mr. Milton:
I plead Guilty.
What are you going to sentence me to.
GAB
A "like" and a "I am glad I could help!" especially for experienced sawyers and Forum members like yourself.  That means a lot to me.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Andries

LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

DanielW

All this assumes you can actually adjust your blade pitch. A lot of the less-expensive mills don't have this option. Make sure you actually have the ability to adjust pitch/incline before you buy one.

As JPassardi notes: When you use one, make uber-sure it's centered on the blade and not biased to one side, or the weight of it will be enough to impart some twist in the blade and give you an incorrect measure.

booman

Yellowhammer,  I like the idea of two alignment tools to check for level.  Did you mention that they also need to be parallel to the bed?
2019 LT15G25WIDE, 2013 LT35HDG25, Stihl MS880 with 59" bar with Alaskan sawmill attachment.  John Deere 5045 tractor with forks, bucket and grapple.  Many chainsaws.

doc henderson

also make sure to avoid a set tooth that would push the tool upward and skew the accuracy.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

GAB

When using the BGAT(s) make sure your blade is tensioned to your operating tightness, otherwise you are most likely wasting your time.
At the logging show in Essex Jct. in May I noticed that the recommended band tightening pressure sticker for the new LT40's is now higher than what the sticker on my mill says.  Mine is a 2005 model.
GAB
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

Old Greenhorn

Just about all the WM techs are saying 3500#, We've been running it that way for several years now. Works well. Banjo "G" string tight. (the high G, not the low G.) ffcheesy
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

doc henderson

my TK has a small hydraulic cylinder in the screw tensioner.  to a gage.  It recommends 1300 to 1500 #s.  prob. the difference in design.  Middle C!
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Larry

Those gauge numbers don't mean a whole lot and some are pretty inaccurate. It takes 24,000 +- psi stress to properly tension most bands. The only accurate way to measure that is with a stress gauge. WM, Lennox and a few others sell them. Just remember its going to taking a lot more pressure to tension a .055 1-1/2" 4 degree than a .045 1-1/4 turbo.

YellowHammer did a excellent job making the video. It's great to have a good reference to refer to when needed.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Magicman

Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

YellowHammer

Larry, thank you.

Quote from: booman on July 09, 2024, 04:15:33 PMYellowhammer,  I like the idea of two alignment tools to check for level.  Did you mention that they also need to be parallel to the bed?


Yes, certainly, I mention that in the video.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

RAYAR

Quote from: Hemlock121 on July 08, 2024, 07:27:38 PMHonestly, I had never heard of a Blade Guide Alignment tool ..... Do some of you make your own guides?  If so, would you mind posting your versions?

Learn something new every day...

Thanks!
I made my own when I first bought my mill. Mine is made of stainless steel since I had access to it at the time, now retired. It looks the same as the Cooks version: https://cookssaw.com/blade-alignment-tool/
mobile manual mill (custom build) (mods & additions on-going)
Custom built auto band sharpener (currently under mods)
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans (432,500 Km)

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