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advice on frame plan

Started by Dana Stanley, August 28, 2018, 10:15:36 PM

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Dana Stanley

Hi I am new to the forum, and am planning a shed for my saw mill. It's a small hobby mill, and I want to make the frame post and beam. I have framed and built houses start to finish with conventional framing, but want to try my hand on a small timber frame.
My plan is to use oak for posts and beams and pine on the rest of it. My one concern is the center tie, not sure how I should do that. I have two rafter ties on the center rafter. they would jst get toenailed in as would the rafters. I sent out for a book recommended by the Timber Framing Guild, ( I believe that's what it's called) to get better ideas. 
Any suggestions are welcome.

 

 
Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

Ljohnsaw

When you get your book, you will see specifically how you need to change your tenons, peg placement and peg size.  The tenons are way too short - the pegs will break out the ends - not enough relish.  I'd do 5" on both the tie beam ends and the post tops.  You might move the tie beam down a little.  Make sure your brace tenons are long enough as well.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

sterling08

Hi Dana,

   You are on the right track, and I am sure that you will have it all figured out very soon. I agree with everything that John said. The joinery will become much more clear after you drop the tie beams down to where they only join to the posts. Using a top plate like you have drawn up is good, and you simply add the rafters in at the correct spacing for the snow load.

   One other thing on your drawing: It looks like the posts extend down below grade in the drawing. Just make sure that you use a metal fastener to connect to your poured footing and don't put the post below grade. If possible, it is good to have a bit of an air-gap between the bottom of the post and the next surface, so water doesn't wick up into the end-grain of the post. (There are many different metal fasteners available for the post-to-concrete fastening purpose).

   Enjoy your build! Sterling.

Dana Stanley

Thank you both for the advice. I did revize the details this morning for the joinery. But if i only need 5"s i may revise agai.

Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

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