Running hyd motor in fwd and rev.

[mike_belben]

Thanks for the great info. Just bought a JD LT155 for $195. Engine shot. Hope it works out.
Sight unseen. Gotta go pick it up east of here.

Jim i am sorry but the LT series is much newer than the ones i am speaking about and probably isnt built anything like the ones i mentioned.  I know its numerically in that sequence but thats like 30yrs newer.  The 140H3 is about a 1970 machine and it subsequently went up to the 300 and 400 series probably into the 90s or so.  I am really sorry i didnt think ti mention that and i hope you can make use of what you bought.  Im feelin pretty guilty here. 

[Jim1934]

No need to feel guilty. I have asked to cancel the order.
I should of asked you before buying.
I am now confused about which ones to buy. Not your fault.
Don't know how to tell the correct one by looking at it.
Thanks for the alert.
Nothings easy

[mike_belben]

TractorData.com John Deere 140 tractor information

[mike_belben]

[mike_belben]

Theres the 140H1 and 140H3.  Then the 300.  Then i think its 314/316/318.  Ive not had or worked on any of them so do some research.  I know theyre bulletproof.  My buddies brothers 300. 





The h1 or h3 is just how many spools on the hydraulic valve.  Same pump and rear. Mine is an H6 now.  ;D

[Jim1934]

Thanks for the great info. Just bought a JD LT155 for $195. Engine shot. Hope it works out.
Sight unseen. Gotta go pick it up east of here.

Jim i am sorry but the LT series is much newer than the ones i am speaking about and probably isnt built anything like the ones i mentioned.  I know its numerically in that sequence but thats like 30yrs newer.  The 140H3 is about a 1970 machine and it subsequently went up to the 300 and 400 series probably into the 90s or so.  I am really sorry i didnt think ti mention that and i hope you can make use of what you bought.  Im feelin pretty guilty here.

Perhaps this representative of whatI bought https://www.ebay.com/itm/John-Deere-LT166-LT155-Lawn-Mower-Tractor-TuffTorq-K51B-Hydro-Drive-Transaxle-/124638895717?hash=item1d050e9e65

[mike_belben]

You might be able to make it work.  No similarity to the one ive shown.  


Btw dont take it personal if your ebay link gets removed.. Just a forum rule. 

[Jim1934]

Mike- looking at a Cub 1650 tranny axle unit. Suspect rugged enough for my application. $100. 1980 vintage.
Do you have any info on overall speed reduction from input of tranny to axles at full speed?
Prepared for replacing bearings, seals, etc. Broken gears and severe corrosion not so much. Lots of 1650's available.
Not sure if that is good or bad.
Any other comments?
If I ever figure out how to post pix I can make more sense.
Thanks, Jim.

[mike_belben]

1650 was a good machine, think i have one sitting in mass that someone gave me needing motor put back together. 

Its the same pump afaik but different housing.  Im not sure about the gear ratio.  3600 rpm input speed.

[mike_belben]

You got me curious enough to go count splines.  

The pump comes out with 12t into a 72t bull gear that slides on a 12t pinion into a 60t ring gear.  So 6:1 times 5:1 = 30:1 fixed overall gear reduction between the hydrostat and the axle shaft on a deere 140.

[Jim1934]

Thanks. I assumed top speed would be about 5 mph. and using tire radius figured wheels going 110 rpm or so.Great.
Been busy disassembling 1650. Wondering if aux.hyd ports, now powering lift cyl, are controlled in any way by
the  drive controls. The drive shaft to engine has a flex coupling made of fabric discs about 4 " in dia. Not sure that is stock.
Have a 17 hp Kohler engine I can use, but it weighs 100lb. Would like to use 10 hp lightweight. It will only run a few times a year for a couple of hours. If I guess it will take 1000 lb. of force to push log at 1 ft/sec that is about 2 HP. Assume 25%
efficiency and 10 HP should do it. As you can see I am full of questions. Regards, Jim.

[mike_belben]

The ragjoint is probably oem.. They are on deeres. 

The rockshaft sticks out the passenger side of the pump and it tilts the swash plate to control fwd/rev.  I think youll want to retain whatever auto spring centering cub uses, im not familiar with it.  Also youll want very smooth tight linkages or the handle directly on the rockshaft.  Very very little slop required to make it very hard to control.  Maybe not in a sawmill but bigtime on a tractor. 

The aux ports can be looped if you dont need them.  The charge pump inside pulls up sump fluid and forces it into the axial piston pump.  But that fluid is also jacked up to 550ish psi via a spring and checkball under one of the caps up top.  This pressure is your aux hydraulics.  It needs to go to its own external control valve then back to the return port on the front.   Passenger side is out. Driver side is return.  

You can loop it with a hose if not needed. Or route it to another piggy back pump if you need high pressure for other cylinder uses.  Just use a pen spring to drop the pressure down to 5psi or so in order not to puke the input seal out of the supercharged pump. I did that a few times. 


Id use the kohler if it runs.  Great engine and you already got it. Everything is available cheap for those. Should have a dc belt clutch upfront too i think.  Could run an air compressor or something.