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Author Topic: Gas Charged Springs Went on LT10 --- How To Remove Bolts, spring keeps spin :)  (Read 1073 times)

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Offline OffGrid973

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Hi Guys,

So I did my first cold weather cut in New Jersey this past week and two issues happend on the LT10.  Until now I haven't had any major problems.

1) Rod end bolt snapped in half that engages the drive belt to the pully, located under the engine.  Order two sets just to be safe moving forward and they are already here, but was curious how bolts snap in half and how that wouldn't be covered under warrenty...Strange.

2) The Gas Charged Air spirngs I have off of the assembly but the nuts do not come off because the springs keep spinning.  Any thoughts on how to keep the black rods from spinning on me :)

HINTS:  Any hints when replacing these rods?   Should one always want to be out and one always want to be in so they offset the tension from each other?  Just curious how I test if both are shot or just one.

QUESTION:  Do you guys keep these on hand because they break often?

Thanks for the help,
-Chris Wimer


Your Fellow Woodworker,
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Offline MartyParsons

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Both assist springs should be at the same length.
Not sure why it broke. If the bolt that goes through the eye comes loose or binding on the engine rods or engine drive belt is over tightened .

A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty. -Winston Churchill

Offline dgdrls

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Good morning Chris

With my 10 I never had an issue with the turn-buckle/spherical road ends breaking.
I always try to keep as much thread on the rod in the adjusting nut and keep the ends centered
so both have the same number of threads exposed.
As Marty indicated perhaps its too tight or there is something binding?

Try clamping the shaft in a brass padded vise/ vise grip assembly.
Clamp as close to the threaded end as you can. 
Put a little Blue Creeper on the treads too to help the nuts come off.


Offline Sixacresand

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Seems like I had to block up head in its highest position to  replace the cylinder.  It was easier than i had anticipated to replace it  Pictured is a  hand crank winch I installed which assisted me in raising the head due to my weak back.   When my turnbuckle deal broke I removed the broken end and screwed in the remaining part and adjusted it to the original length.  That worked fine until the new one arrived. 

"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum

Offline pineywoods

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The broken rod end bolt is a symptom, not the real problem. You have something badly mis-aligned or bent. In the first pic, the bolt is bent, repeated bending of a bolt will break it every time. Keep looking, something else is wrong...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Offline OffGrid973

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Thank you guys, I will test out the vice grip removal tomorrow and then also replace the springs.

Hopefully once the new turnbuckle is configured I can see what else is out of whack.

Your Fellow Woodworker,
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