Mast alignment

[Simon3380]

 I've just started a coplete alignment after my 800 hrs service and trying to get the mask slide gaps correct is giving me some trouble. On both the upper and lower steps I always have three of the four pads touching. So I'm wonder if I'm missing some more parts that keep the mask square. The book talks about shims but I don't see any. If you can see in the picture it looks like the mask v brace arm should be somewhat parallel with the rest of the frame and mine isn't. Do I need to fix this and if so how. The book doesn't say anything about it.

[barbender]

Do you mean the mast? It's been so long since I did an alignment on my mill, I can't answer any of your questions.

[Dave Shepard]

Follow the instructions exactly. If the alignment is correct at the position the manual says it should be, it will change when you move the head. You can't check the top and the bottom at the same time. Not all of the pads will touch.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Just curious, why did you need a full alignment?
Was your saw not cutting good lumber?

[Simon3380]

Yes I meant mast. I'm typing on my phone and it likes to auto correct for me.

I tried to follow the instructions but I'm in a situation that the book doesn't explain besides mentioning there may be some shims. I don't see any shims and the space that is suppose to be business card wide only appears on one side the other three points are touching, both on the top and bottom. No matter what I tried I could not get the space to show up on both the uppers on the inside when the head was up or the lowers on the outside when the head was down. So I'm thinking something is not right.

As for why I'm doing the full alignment is because after everything that went wrong on my last job I decided I was going to go though the whole mill to make sure it's in the best shape that it can be. Plus it was due for it's 800 hour service and I struggle a little to get square cants on the bigger logs. That may be a technique thing but it can't hurt to have the mill adjusted correctly.

One thing that is apparent is the previous two owner didn't know what maintenance was. So it worth it to me to go though the mill top to bottom to get some confidence back in this mill.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

One thing that is apparent is the previous two owner didn't know what maintenance was. So it worth it to me to go though the mill top to bottom to get some confidence back in this mill.

Good point.

[barbender]

My mill was in the same situation when I got it as far as maintenance. If I remember right (it's been a long time) the shims were c shaped pieces of sheet metal that were behind the slide pads.

[Chuck White]

Follow the instructions exactly. If the alignment is correct at the position the manual says it should be, it will change when you move the head. You can't check the top and the bottom at the same time. Not all of the pads will touch.

Absolutely agree, word-for-word!   :P

[Dave Shepard]

You are only going to get one gap when checking for that business card thickness.  The other three pads will be touching. As i mentioned before,  you can only check the top pads in the up position. When the head is in the down position, the gap will not be "in spec", but it will be correct. It's a bit of a puzzle to understand what is going on, but as long as you have a card gap at the bottom when the head is down, and a card gap at the top when the head is up, then you will be fine. As to shims, they would only be necessary if the pads are worn, or you are lot of adjustment.

[sparks]

To adjust the upper pads, raise the head to 30". Standing on the loading side of the mill the pad to the right, closest to you, will be the one that has the gap.

To adjust the lower pads, lower the head to 8". Standing on the battery side of the mill the pad to the right, closest to you, will be the one that has the gap.