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Author Topic: chrome saw bits  (Read 1510 times)

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Offline BalsamBandit

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chrome saw bits
« on: July 29, 2017, 11:08:27 AM »
how do you sharpen chrome bits? my file doesn't really bite into it. was wondering what others use. thanks for any replys

Offline JB Griffin

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Re: chrome saw bits
« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2017, 11:58:03 AM »
Jockey.
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

Offline BalsamBandit

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Re: chrome saw bits
« Reply #2 on: July 29, 2017, 02:59:43 PM »
i just really didn't want to spend the money for a jockey. thanks for the help though

Offline JB Griffin

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Re: chrome saw bits
« Reply #3 on: July 29, 2017, 03:01:56 PM »
Could be done with an angle grinder.
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: chrome saw bits
« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2017, 09:29:37 PM »
Diamond grit files are available. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: chrome saw bits
« Reply #5 on: July 29, 2017, 11:43:43 PM »
I used a Jockey to knock off the chrome from the front of the tooth.  After that, you can use a hand file.  You can get a diamond grit file, like Frank says, but you'll need some elbow grease to get the chrome knocked off.  You won't be able to swage your teeth.

We had an Andrus for our vertical edger.  It was more compact than the Jockey, and I think it was a bit cheaper.  But, looking at the current prices, it appears Andrus has raised theirs.   >:(  It seems that the Jones grinder is a bit cheaper.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Offline JB Griffin

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Re: chrome saw bits
« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2017, 09:34:22 AM »
When I worked at the pine mill we had a jockey like I had never seen before or since.  It a Milwaukee drill in it that was hinged and on a slide, you would set it on the saw and position its stops lightly tighten the clamp flop the drill over and pull the trigger on the drill and pull it back towards the bit. You could rock the diamond wheel side to side and wear it evenly.
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

Offline BalsamBandit

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Re: chrome saw bits
« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2017, 01:22:00 PM »
thanks i will look into the diamond files, and maybe in the future get a jockey. right now I'm trying to keep it on budget its just a hobby right now, still figuring things out. there is a lot to learn about milling and this forum helps a lot


Offline moodnacreek

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Re: chrome saw bits
« Reply #8 on: July 30, 2017, 02:22:12 PM »
Payne saws in Georgia has the remaining stock of Dexter diamond files. This is what I used on chrome before I got a jockey. I like chrome bits better than carbide or tungsweld.  Contrary to what others say , you can swedge chrome bits [Simonds anyhow]. Also don't buy long bits as they usually are not made properly.

Offline Bert

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Re: chrome saw bits
« Reply #9 on: August 02, 2017, 03:13:04 PM »
the best option here might be changing out the chrome bits for regular. In my experience, theres really no difference between regular, carbide or chrome. You get the same life out of them for the dollar. Sure one may last longer, but you pay more for it.

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Offline moodnacreek

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Re: chrome saw bits
« Reply #10 on: August 02, 2017, 05:28:47 PM »
Chrome bits saw nicer in certain woods. Spruce would be a good example. the chrome is like a lubricant, takes less power and runs cooler. For years I wouldn't buy them until I found out they will swedge.

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: chrome saw bits
« Reply #11 on: August 02, 2017, 05:41:38 PM »
Depends on what the chrome is used on.  I used chrome regularly on the edgers.  They stayed sharp longer.  Debarked logs would have the chrome last longer.  We got into a problem with hardness in the regular bits.  They weren't tempered right, and they dulled really quick.  It took us a number of months to get past them.  Simonds didn't really seem to care as we contacted them concerning the Rockwell ratings of their teeth.  We had them tested, and they were low. 

Where we did use steel over chrome is when we got into batches of tramp metal.  Also, dirty logs seemed to have no advantage for chrome, especially dollar for dollar comparison. 

As for swage, it depends on how you swage.  I never hit the corners of the tooth.  You have to push the steel out from the center of the tooth.  Its harder to do on chromed teeth.  Hitting the corners will make them thin and more prone to breaking off.  I used long bits for my saws.  The tooth is designed a bit different and found that swaging wasn't necessary if I had things running really good.  In frozen wood, you don't want a very wide tooth.   
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