One more Radial Arm Saw band sharpener...

[Ljohnsaw]

I bought a 15-pack of WM bands (184") for my home-build saw.  Managed to break one with my chain saw (don't ask...) dulled one or two with nails and toasted one when it jumped off and tried to eat my bunks.  I have 4 new blades left so time to think about sharpening.  I happen to have a free radial arm saw from my neighbor and reading about it here, I think I'll give it a shot.

Questions:

I envision taking light passes, I'm assuming no coolant is necessary?

I need to look at the motor but did anyone have issues finding a stone rated for the saw arbor speed?

Speaking of stones, what would be the recommended grit?

Better with a bigger stone diameter (longer wear time before reshaping) or small stone (slower tip speed)?

Has anyone come up with a single crank setup to advance, clamp and grind?  I saw the video of the French (I believe) one with a vertical blade movement.  Pretty slick and fast to use.  Then a motor drive could be set up for automatic sharpening.

On the blade advance, any suggestions on how to keep the blade tight up against the tooth stop?  I'm thinking of a roller bearing riding on the back side of another tooth that has a spring pulling it back.  Necessary?  Seems like the stone will want to push the blade out.  Looking to avoid finger cramps!

One last thought.  The latch systems assume the teeth are uniformly spaced.  What about at the weld?  My blades are custom 184" and I haven't looked close, but has anyone noticed if the "last tooth" is not the same spacing?

Anything else to be concerned about?

Thanks.

[Kbeitz]

Just finished one up...
Works great...

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,82853.560.html

[DDW_OR]

radial arm saw
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=75621.0

if i was you, i would incorporate both ideas into one.

speed control
http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

[Chuck White]

I bought a 15-pack of WM bands (184") for my home-build saw.  Managed to break one with my chain saw (don't ask...) dulled one or two with nails and toasted one when it jumped off and tried to eat my bunks.  I have 4 new blades left so time to think about sharpening.  I happen to have a free radial arm saw from my neighbor and reading about it here, I think I'll give it a shot.

Questions:

I envision taking light passes, I'm assuming no coolant is necessary?

I need to look at the motor but did anyone have issues finding a stone rated for the saw arbor speed?

Speaking of stones, what would be the recommended grit?

Better with a bigger stone diameter (longer wear time before reshaping) or small stone (slower tip speed)?

Has anyone come up with a single crank setup to advance, clamp and grind?  I saw the video of the French (I believe) one with a vertical blade movement.  Pretty slick and fast to use.  Then a motor drive could be set up for automatic sharpening.

On the blade advance, any suggestions on how to keep the blade tight up against the tooth stop?  I'm thinking of a roller bearing riding on the back side of another tooth that has a spring pulling it back.  Necessary?  Seems like the stone will want to push the blade out.  Looking to avoid finger cramps!

One last thought.  The latch systems assume the teeth are uniformly spaced.  What about at the weld?  My blades are custom 184" and I haven't looked close, but has anyone noticed if the "last tooth" is not the same spacing?

Anything else to be concerned about?

Thanks. 

I don't remember what the speed is on my Cat Claw sharpener, just that it is "very" fast!

I use the "blue stones/rocks" that are sold by Cook Saw!  The rocks are 60 grit!

The rocks are 5" diameter, 3/8" thick and the arbor hole is 1/2" diameter!

[Ljohnsaw]

speed control
http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

Might be worth it with my 25% coupon for January 1 & 2.  However, I've used regular light dimmers but I forget what they are rated for - 12 amps comes to mind.  So I guess I'll have to clean up my garage to get to the saw and see what the amp rating is, the arbor size and the maximum thickness stone I can put on it.  Then track down some Alum. Oxide stones at a reasonable price.  I have a stone that is too narrow but it is a darker green.  Any idea what kind that would be - hardness-wise?

[Kbeitz]

speed control
http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

Might be worth it with my 25% coupon for January 1 & 2.  However, I've used regular light dimmers but I forget what they are rated for - 12 amps comes to mind.  So I guess I'll have to clean up my garage to get to the saw and see what the amp rating is, the arbor size and the maximum thickness stone I can put on it.  Then track down some Alum. Oxide stones at a reasonable price.  I have a stone that is too narrow but it is a darker green.  Any idea what kind that would be - hardness-wise?

Most light dimmers are not designed to run a motor.
Light dimmers are rated 600 watts or less.
Motors are much more than that.
My router speed control cost me $18.00 off E-bay.

[Ljohnsaw]

speed control
http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

Might be worth it with my 25% coupon for January 1 & 2.  However, I've used regular light dimmers but I forget what they are rated for - 12 amps comes to mind.  So I guess I'll have to clean up my garage to get to the saw and see what the amp rating is, the arbor size and the maximum thickness stone I can put on it.  Then track down some Alum. Oxide stones at a reasonable price.  I have a stone that is too narrow but it is a darker green.  Any idea what kind that would be - hardness-wise?

Most light dimmers are not designed to run a motor.
Light dimmers are rated 600 watts or less.
Motors are much more than that.
My router speed control cost me $18.00 off E-bay.

I read the reviews.  While most were favorable, a few complained that it didn't go slow enough.  Wonder if you could cascade them?  Also, someone noted that they don't work on capacitor start motors.  Wondering about that.  Some of my motors have the external caps.

[DDW_OR]

both of my Radial arm saws are 15 Amp, 120V. one of them can be converted to 240V

[Kcwoodbutcher]

My saw runs at 3450  and I run an 8" wheel with the profile ground into it. As you continue to dress the wheel it will become smaller but it takes a lot of bands to wear it down. The wheel is 80 grit aluminum oxide ( grey wheel ). I tried silicon carbide, it dresses easy but wears too fast.  Be careful you need a one inch wheel to cut the entire tooth/gullet profile because of the angle. Some saws won't accommodate a wheel that wide and still have enough thread on the arbor. I make light quick passes and don't get any blueing at the tip. Too slow and you will. I have a simple cam clamp that rides against a one inch block that hold the blade against the back support. It doesn't take much pressure to hold it steady. I toyed with the idea of an automatic indexing system but haven't got around to it. You get into a rhythm and it goes fairly quick. I takes me about 20 minutes for a 14' 5" blade. Your arm will get tired pulling the carriage back and forth. I have post here about the setup and there are pictures in my gallery. Remember a sharp blade that isn't set right still won't cut worth a DanG.

[DDW_OR]

i saw this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZoX3nTYYP4