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Granberg Alaskan Chainsaw Mill

Started by tyb525, August 06, 2008, 05:52:00 PM

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gizmo

I can't seem to get a pic posted on here and I keep them small. They uploaded but God knows where they went. I was trying to boast about my first try with the Alaskan. Actually had a good time making the cuts but getting the log down and setting for the first cut took some time. Here's a link to what I accomplished { Quite minute by your standars} but fun as heck. Let me know what you think...

http://homepages.roadrunner.com/outdoorsman/

tyb525

gizmo you sure have a nice webpage. The pics of the mill were good, too. Using a ladder is interesting, I didn't think it would be stiff enough not to flex while you were cutting?
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

gizmo

I have channel posts lag bolted into the trunk about every three feet and the ladder strapped to them.. It's an old ladder and they don't make ladders like they used to.

sawguy21

I enjoyed that too. Some beautiful country, especially in fall.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

beenthere

Quote from: gizmo on August 10, 2008, 10:27:33 PM
I can't seem to get a pic posted on here and I keep them small. They uploaded but God knows where they went. .....

They are in your gallery...and they look great. You have a total of 11 pics in there, going back to '05.  But you have two albums set up, "My Rottweiler" and "New Album". A couple pics added yesterday in each one.
8) 8)
You can go to your gallery through the link on your home page, or by clicking on the "My Photos" link to the left of your posts.

When posting or modifying a message, you can click on "Upload or insert Photo?" under the blue window, it will let you go to "My Gallery" where your pics are. Click on the pic you want to post, and scroll down to the "Click here to copy......blah, blah " and your pic will appear in your post (when you say "yes"). 

Hope this helps.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

JV

gizmo,

Nice pics, and ditto the beautiful country.  That first cut sure feels satisfying after you finish

it.  Ladders or 2x4's are a lot less expensive than the 200 bucks Granberg wants for their

rails plus the cost of the extensions.   
John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

hazard

gizmo

Cool pictures.  I liked the ladder idea.

I would add weight to your boards so they do not warp.  You probably did this after you to the picture

Chris

Nikko

I run a 48" mill on a 37" bar with an old Husky 2100 and an aux. oiler. Milling this way is a lot of fun, an excellent workout and you can get some cheap wood this way. About 6 weeks ago we milled 1200 bd ft (usable) of Beech (bole was 44" across the butt) in 2 days - 30" wide slabs 3" thick, 8.5' long each - 21 of them. 195' lineal feet of cutting all together. Ran 1 liter of gas/cut, 3 cuts to a sharpening - amazing!

Couple of things:

1) use a veggie-based bar oil. It's better for the environment, and you're less likely to have a reaction if you apply a finish to your wood later on. Use lots!
2) for the odd bit of cutting with a 20"saw, don't bother with the milling chain. Instead cut your slabs a little bit thicker (1/8") as the cut won't be as smooth (it'll cut at about the same speed though) and you'll need to plane a bit more off  later to get a finished piece. That said - keep the chain sharp. If you get serious and want a better surface finish, THEN buy milling chain.
3) use a ladder for a reference plane to do your first cut. I bought a 20' aluminum extension ladder off Craiglsist for $20. I screw in a piece of angle iron into either end of the log, making sure both are level (I carry a small torpedo level), and clamp the ladder to it using some small C-clamps. If there's a big section of unsupported ladder, I place a couple of wedges under it to make sure it doesn't move. Takes minutes to set up, deadly accurate and it's light to move around.
4) make set-up blocks for adjusting your mill height instead of using a tape measure or instead of trusting the increments Granberg stamps on the uprights. Makes for MUCH easier set-up if you're single handed.
5) drink a LOT of fluids when you're milling. You'd be surprised at how hard you're actually working.
6) place the log on a slope so you're milling down hill by about 5*. You'll be surprised at how much of a difference this makes - the saw will pretty much pull itself along.
7) try to mill with the wind to your back. The saw's exhaust can really get to you. I had my muffler modified to aim the exhaust away from me - HUGE difference.
8) don't forget to wedge the kerf as you go. One wedge in the butt as soon as you can, two mid way down the log and another two just before you exit the cut is about perfect. And TAP the wedges in gently (or place them in - don't even tap them), don't wail on them. You want to maintain the kerf that's already there, not make it bigger.
9) after you've finished a cut let the saw idle for at least a minute to cool before shutting it down/
10) sweep the sawdust off the last cut before starting the next one.

Enjoy!

Nikko

John S

thecfarm,
Been away for a few days.  The Lt-15 is a 15 hp.  I ordered one extension and the new trailer loading kit.  Hope to start cutting in a few days.
John
2018 LT40HDG38 Wide

JimMartin9999

Jim

Nikko

Pairs of wood blocks (2x4) cut to whatever length(s) you need so you can sit them on the bar, drop the mill to sit on them and tighten the clamps. Blocks are then removed.  For standard cuts (your first one from the ladder, 5/4, 9/4 etc.) they're a lot easier than fiddling with a tape measure.

Nikko

logwalker

I just received the 2 Solo 681's from Bailey's for our neighborhood mill. Breaking them in with normal cutting before putting them on the mill. We were using 2, 20 year old Husky 61's and getting 1 foot a minute in 58" western maple. We are cutting a 42" Doug Fir next. These Solo's are quite the saws.  Joe
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

JV

Something I just thought of, and this probably applies to only the bigger mills, while cutting a large log with my 56" one of the guys noticed my bar was bowed down.  I loosened the outboard clamp and the post jumped in about 3/4".  This was in almost 90 degree temperatures.  I don't know if the bar was running out because of the temps or if the guide on the inboard clamp was bumping over.  I have a habit now of loosening and retightening the inboard clamp to release any tension on the bar between cuts.
John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

tyb525

Got the mill today via fedex, got it set up and going right away. I decided to cut a red elm I had laying around (good thing I thought to put boards under it to keep it from rotting). The first cut was faster than I thought it would be. The second was slower. The rest were about the same speed. I contributed this to a) the cutting getting wider as I neared the center, and b) the chain getting dull.
Overall it turned out good, and I like the grain red elm has.
What is you guy's experience on how long chains will last before needing sharpened again? This log was about 16" butt end, 12" small end, about 8' long.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

hazard

I figure 3-4 boards between sharpening.  If they are in the 15" range maybe more.  I figure every tank of gas on the 066 I sharpen the chain.  I use a hand file, 5 strokes per link.

Also if I start working harder then I should the chain gets sharpened.

Chris

tripleH

Hi,  I'm new to posting to the forum but have been reading for several years.

I have done some chainsaw milling and came across a website from a place in Canada who deals strictly in chainsaw mills.  They recommend sharpening the chain at 90 degrees to the bar.  I have tried this and it really smooths out the cut.   Also it is really good for the bar if you can add extra oil to the tip of the bar as you mill.
I will try to post some pictures of the mill my friend and I built with an 18 horse riding lawn mower engine and a 25 or 26 inch chainsaw bar.  I was using my Sthil 056 but not the power for the big stuff.  We are also looking at a longer bar.  Now we can only cut 16 inch wide max.

TripleH

JV

tripleH,

Welcome, looking forward to the pictures.  Always nice to hear about different experiences

and perspectives.
John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

gizmo

I 'll try getting those pics on there. First is my tractor hauling it down in the bucket to keep the bark clean......










thecfarm

gizmo,nice saw.Brand new?
Nice thread you guys have going here.Keep it coming.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

gizmo

Saw is a few years young... I need some time to use it.








tyb525

Gizmo, I'm no expert, but shouldn't those stickers line up vertically?
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

gizmo

You're more expert than me. Should they be? I staggered them because I thought that's how they should be. Any more inputs???

beenthere

gizmo
What is your plan for those thick cuts?  short term or long term?

Probably stickered as you have them doesn't have much effect because of the thickness,
...but would if you were stickering a pile of 4/4 (1") lumber for drying. Then having the stickers straight above the bolsters, and up through the pile keeps the stresses in balance.

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

gizmo

I was going to make a couple benchs for around the fire pit with the thick cuts. It would give it a little rustic look.

tyb525

Like been there said, with something that thick, it probably doesn't matter too much, especially if you want it to look rustic. Nice saw you got there gizmo.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

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