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Crankshaft Service

Started by motomedik, December 31, 2010, 10:29:22 AM

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motomedik

Does anyone ever "true" cranks while apart?
Split 3 cases, runout when held on 1 center was .001", .007",.010" for the three 262 CrankShafts
Using the same method I use on the bike cranks, managed to get the least straight to .004"
Any one had any luck building cranks, I know no parts are available for the most part, but maybe taking parts from two or more to build one good one?

Cut4fun

I dont know how much money you are wanting to get into this. But  a stroked crank from these guys is around $525. How much for what you are wanting  you would have to call. So you might want to check with them if in US  and there is a place on the north of the boarder too.

http://www.faliconcranks.com/

Al_Smith

I only assume that three piece cranks on most modern saws are induction heated and then pressed in place .

On a Harley crank the pin is tapered and held in place with two large locknuts .It takes like a giant heavy duty lathe and 3 or 4 dial indicators ,c  clamps and  wedges to true one up .

I've never trued a saw engine crank and would only assume that if the shafts are running true but the end play is only in one plane then they could be trued in an arbor press .If however the lateral alignment were out it would need disassembled and repressed .That being the case another shaft is in order because cost of repair would exceed the value .

motomedik

Falicon we contact for multi cyl roller crank rebuilds and custom stuff. And yes, very pricey.
Single cyl three piece bike and ATV (2+4T) are fairly easy. Press apart, new Pin, Brg, Rod, and press back together and true. I chuck them in a lathe (1 end) and find the high spot, true  w brass mallet, recheck. Measure web width and be sure that is the same after rebuild. Rotax and other euro stuff can be VERY hard to press, and I have used a bit of heat for reassembly on those. The saws are the same construction, and I found the one I fooled around with truing moved quite easily. Thought I'd throw this out there before I tried to press one apart, risk ruining it. Got a 154 that I want to steal the big end bearing and Pin from, for a 262 crank. 262 has very slightly got a bit of play, may not be worth messing with.
Thanks for the replies.

motomedik

On the same note, how 'bout this one? Had no case gasket for the 262 lower end so as an experiment I assembled w/o one. Used 1104 to seal. Going to see how long it lasts... And yes I was sure the bearings are not "squashed", only tried it because the flywheel side has a "floating" bearing, no step it's against.

weimedog

How long did you run your 61 w/o a base gasket? I have a friends 272XP built with an after market top end and a another friends 268 running w/o base gaskets, one (268) has a year on it, the other(272XP aftermarket) around 20 tanks and counting.
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

Cut4fun

Seen other saws with no crankcase gaskets.  ;)

Cut4fun

I even use ThreeBond 1194  to seal between this metal Dolmar 166 fuel and oil tanks to keep bar oil from getting into the $30 gal alky/nitro.  Still working perfect.




Al_Smith

I'll tell you what ,good old Permatex number two and  Indian head gasket shellac has sealed many a saw . Lots of other stuff too  for literally decades .

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