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Started by Peter Drouin, January 22, 2014, 09:06:44 PM

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Peter Drouin

Has anyone worn out a Wood Mizer CBN wheel out yet?
And if you did how many blades did you do?
or how many sharpens
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

terrifictimbersllc

and how did you first notice it was worn out?
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Peter Drouin

Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on January 24, 2014, 07:47:53 AM
and how did you first notice it was worn out?
[/quot


It was sharping a little, but I had to go around 2 times and It did not do the job. Maybe 6 times  :D :D :D
Cutting frozen hemlock is the pith but I have to get 12,000 bf out.
I have a new one on its way. How are you doing with yours? I was hoping to hear from more members with CBM.  I want to thank you for your question.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

terrifictimbersllc

Don't think any of mine are worn out yet. Oldest two are a 10 and a 9.    Newer are a 4 and a 7.   Probably approaching 400 go rounds with the 10 degree wheel.  I figure if the blade gets sharpened and there are still mounds of metal in the oil, then the wheel isn't worn out.

I do have to go around 2-3 times sometimes, and that's always because of the inside set teeth.  These are always the ones that get completely squared off last in a sharpening. Thinking maybe its because these are mostly new blades which were set last at the factory, so their tops are pushed over different from ones I've already ground.   I set, then sharpen. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

tommone

First part of the wheel to wear out is usually the part which grinds down the face of the blade as that part is much harder than the remainder. Although the back of the blade face is also hard the part of the wheel touching that area does not experience as much wear. When the you see a smooth shiny spot at the face grinding area  on the wheel it's time to think about a new wheel.

woodyone.john

I bought my sharpener and setter 2nd hand along with the mill with 3000+ hours on the clock.I didnt really know any thing about bandsaws at that time.I didnt get much history on the mill.Oh what a steep learning curve. I wasnt getting a very good cut with my resharpens and this was due to the cbn wheel being worn on the squarish corner in the gullet under the tooth.Tried getting bands sharpened by others [so called profeessionals] and was not impressed.I bought a new 10 degree cbn wheel, that and pineywooded the setter and with the help of the forum started to sharpen my own again. Boy ,what a difference. Any way to the point of the thread,the newest wheel is now looking quite shiny on the corner,not worn out. I wouldnt  have done 500 cycles-bands since new. They are quite expensive here and the thought that soon i may have to replace it makes me squirm in spite of the fact that they are [the ability to sharpen my own] are /is key to sawing.   cheers john
Saw millers are just carpenters with bigger bits of wood

Peter Drouin



I do have to go around 2-3 times sometimes, and that's always because of the inside set teeth.  These are always the ones that get completely squared off last in a sharpening. Thinking maybe its because these are mostly new blades which were set last at the factory, so their tops are pushed over different from ones I've already ground.   I set, then sharpen. 
[/quote]




I saw that with the inside teeth, so I move the part that holds the blade out to me. And it's better. I grind heavy. Most times I go around 1 time, sometimes 2. I have sharpened 635 blades with the CBN not counting going 2 times around for a blade. I set first. too
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Peter Drouin

Quote from: woodyone.john on January 24, 2014, 01:59:34 PM
I bought my sharpener and setter 2nd hand along with the mill with 3000+ hours on the clock.I didnt really know any thing about bandsaws at that time.I didnt get much history on the mill.Oh what a steep learning curve. I wasnt getting a very good cut with my resharpens and this was due to the cbn wheel being worn on the squarish corner in the gullet under the tooth.Tried getting bands sharpened by others [so called profeessionals] and was not impressed.I bought a new 10 degree cbn wheel, that and pineywooded the setter and with the help of the forum started to sharpen my own again. Boy ,what a difference. Any way to the point of the thread,the newest wheel is now looking quite shiny on the corner,not worn out. I wouldnt  have done 500 cycles-bands since new. They are quite expensive here and the thought that soon i may have to replace it makes me squirm in spite of the fact that they are [the ability to sharpen my own] are /is key to sawing.   cheers john


Quote from: tommone on January 24, 2014, 01:41:58 PM
First part of the wheel to wear out is usually the part which grinds down the face of the blade as that part is much harder than the remainder. Although the back of the blade face is also hard the part of the wheel touching that area does not experience as much wear. When the you see a smooth shiny spot at the face grinding area  on the wheel it's time to think about a new wheel.



The wheel is the width of the spacing of the teeth, so I try to put the wheel evenly on the blade. I don't favor one way or the other :)
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

drobertson

I cannot remember where I saw it, but it seems the cost and life of the cbn wheel is just over the cost of new blades, I know from much polishing, and diamond grinding, there are dressing sticks that get a little more from this type of wheel.  david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Bandmill Bandit

my wheel is a in its 8th season.

New bands get set sharpened re set before they see the mill. Been through 28 boxes of bands with 29 and 30 in the shop. box number 29 has 3 blade in the sharpen cycle right now. I average 6 to 8 sharpen cycle per blade so 7 X 280 = 1960 and if you count the odd double round to bring a damaged blade back to good cutting condition I think it is safe to say I am over 2000 blade cycles.

Cant say I have noticed any difference from when the wheel was new to todays performance. i still get a good sharp blade on a single round. keeping the grinder properly adjust is the KEY to this IMHO. I expect at least another 18000 or more cycles minimum. I might be out to lunch but I don't see why it wouldn't do that with proper care. 

Peter; I was having that problem for a bit too. MY wheel angle was way out of set. i got it  set  properly and now i check the set angle about every other blade or so. have not  had that issue since.
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Peter Drouin

Bandit what do you have for blades, what size, with that kind of numbers you have me thinking WHAT  :D :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

customsawyer

I wish I could help you but I don't keep track the number of blades I have sharpened with the grinder. I am on my 3rd CBN wheel now. The first one did well over 500 blades. The second got ruined by hired help :-X. The third has done well over 500 also and still going.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: Peter Drouin on January 24, 2014, 06:24:43 PM
I saw that with the inside teeth, so I move the part that holds the blade out to me. And it's better.
Wondered if I could do that but didn't know how. How'd you do it?  The back bar looks like the one that moves to clamp the blade so is it the front bar that needs moving forward? Is it those two small bolts facing forward on either side?  Underneath there's a bolt but that looks like it just swivels the assembly.  I'd look closer but it's cold out there right now.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Peter Drouin

That big bolt[ under it] will let the whole thing come to you. Then you have to turn in the 2 small ones that have the springs behind them so the clamp will hold the blade.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

terrifictimbersllc

Thanks. Maybe Ive been doing too much grinding, hopefully mostly one pass after this adjustment.  I tend to yank a blade from the mill sooner rather than later trying to saw only with very sharp blades.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

NMFP

@ of my 10 degree cbn wheels have over 1200 sharpenings on them.  Getting worn down but based on sharpening quality, I think I will get about 300 more sharpenings from those wheels.

The life of the wheel all depends on how you sharpen and how you cool the wheel.  Light grinding is the way to go, not one heavy pass.

Most bands I sharpen are one pass but if a customer has sent a band to me with the tips worn severely, it might require 2 or possibly even 3 passes to renew the steel.


Bandmill Bandit

Quote from: Peter Drouin on January 24, 2014, 08:40:11 PM
Bandit what do you have for blades, what size, with that kind of numbers you have me thinking WHAT  :D :D

I use mainly the double hard 10* X7/8 ths gullet, .045x1.5 bands with a few stalite bands throw in when I am cutting flooring or paneling. At 280 bands in, I am about roughly half through my wheel based on custom sawyers numbers.

I was taught to sharpen by Garry at the Salmon Arm Wood Mizer shop and he was very adamant that a "light touch" is the key to long wheel life AND the best possible sharpening result.

Heres the hint he gives to about every one he trains;

"if you cant hear the double touch of the grind wheel when the cam hits its lowest point of travel you are grinding to way heavy".

I have to sharpen bands today and will see if I can get my son to come do a high def video of the process for me to post here with sound.

My blades come off when they are still cutting pretty good. I installed a tach on my engine and it is pretty easy to tell when a blade is getting dull. Once I start seeing a drop of more than an average of 100 to 150 rpm its blade change time. You can feel it and hear as much as see it long before you start getting bad cuts. Also the saw dust changes texture too.

Have a set of digital temp gauges on order as well. I think engine temp will be a better indicator than RPM.     
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Peter Drouin

I can hear the 2# drop of the wheel when I sharpen. And I do change blades when I hear  the mill change sound. I can tell by the feel of the mill too.
Once you get past the hard part of the blade all bets are off. The cat can round off the outside corner in one pass. :D only the blades that have some hardening left will cut frozen hemlock, sometimes after one cut there might be teeth missing on the blade. When I have a blade that has missing teeth or just the top 1/2 gone I throw them away. :)
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Bandmill Bandit

Yea Peter you are bang on.
I don't think I have ever got more than 8 sharpens out of a blade before the hardening is about gone. Most bands tend to break at around the 6th or 7th cycles for me anyway.

Blades in reasonable shape a with a tooth or 3 missing get parked for when I get asked to saw a power/utility pole
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Peter Drouin

Yes I have 3 blades for junk logs  :D :D :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

terrifictimbersllc

My grinder noise "chee-chee"  attracts chickadees sometimes they get stuck inside the garage.  fly_smiley
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

JustinW_NZ

Quote from: woodyone.john on January 24, 2014, 01:59:34 PM
I bought my sharpener and setter 2nd hand along with the mill with 3000+ hours on the clock.I didnt really know any thing about bandsaws at that time.I didnt get much history on the mill.Oh what a steep learning curve. I wasnt getting a very good cut with my resharpens and this was due to the cbn wheel being worn on the squarish corner in the gullet under the tooth.Tried getting bands sharpened by others [so called profeessionals] and was not impressed.I bought a new 10 degree cbn wheel, that and pineywooded the setter and with the help of the forum started to sharpen my own again. Boy ,what a difference. Any way to the point of the thread,the newest wheel is now looking quite shiny on the corner,not worn out. I wouldnt  have done 500 cycles-bands since new. They are quite expensive here and the thought that soon i may have to replace it makes me squirm in spite of the fact that they are [the ability to sharpen my own] are /is key to sawing.   cheers john

Hey John, don't happen to have a photo of what your old one looked like do you?
Mine is the same I think, the front edge just isn't sharpening as well as it should I think.

Cheers
Justin
Gear I run;
Woodmizer LT40 Super, Treefarmer C4D, 10ton wheel loader.

woodyone.john

Sorry Justin,I chucked it.I also need to chuck about 50 blades both broken and with no more blackness on their teeth[induction hardened]. As others have commented they arent up to much once thats gone.I,m using 10 .45 1.5 double hards. Ive got the setting and sharpening process sorted now,sufficient at least to make the sawing fast and pleasurable [by my standards],sawing salignas felled a year ago and newer. I now need to consider other elements of the production chain and possibly other patterns to speed and improve recoverys.cheers john
Saw millers are just carpenters with bigger bits of wood

JustinW_NZ

Quote from: woodyone.john on January 27, 2014, 06:40:17 PM
Sorry Justin,I chucked it.I also need to chuck about 50 blades both broken and with no more blackness on their teeth[induction hardened]. As others have commented they arent up to much once thats gone.I,m using 10 .45 1.5 double hards. Ive got the setting and sharpening process sorted now,sufficient at least to make the sawing fast and pleasurable [by my standards],sawing salignas felled a year ago and newer. I now need to consider other elements of the production chain and possibly other patterns to speed and improve recoverys.cheers john

yes, I've found the same with the hardened part of gone they don't last long in sharpness terms.
I've got the setting and sharpening working pretty good now as well, but I feel the edge is gone from my wheel, im just trying to put off spending the money I think, probably being too tight about it really  :-X

Cheers
Justin
Gear I run;
Woodmizer LT40 Super, Treefarmer C4D, 10ton wheel loader.

Peter Drouin


[/quote]

yes, I've found the same with the hardened part of gone they don't last long in sharpness terms.
I've got the setting and sharpening working pretty good now as well, but I feel the edge is gone from my wheel, im just trying to put off spending the money I think, probably being too tight about it really  :-X

Cheers
Justin

[/quote]




They don't last forever Justin  :D And yes you have to spend money to make money :D :D Good luck
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

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