Wiring question??

[Josh3760]

Hello all! I'm josh. New  to posting but I have been lurking around here the past few years. I am very impressed with the amount of knowledge here and the lack of Egos versus other sites My background is heavy equipment operator both in the woods and construction. I built my mill about 3 years ago its a bandmill with 13 HP Honda, 20 ft bed, all manual. It has been very profitable and sawed thousands of board feet with only a few problems along the way. Nothing hard to over come.  But I'm ready to step up to power feed and power up and down. The up and down is easy I have it all figured out and working on the bench just need to put it on. But as for the power feed I have a question on the wiring part of it. I'm using a drum switch identical to a wm hooking to a wheel chair motor then on to a drum and cable. My trouble is how to wire the speed control inline with the drum switch to have adjustable speed forward and by pass it on the way back for a full speed return without using the pot all the time. I have read and searched for every power feed  question on this forum and others but never have I came across a wiring diagram or a complete description of how to do it. My pwm speed control has 4 terminals on it +&- in and +&- out to the motor. if I put it on the forward speed part of the drum switch a +from switch and+ to the motor where are the - going seems like it would have to make a full loop through the speed control to work correctly. I am no electrician I can build just about anything out of metal or wood but electrical circuits I get a little lost ???. Thanks for any help

[Josh3760]

Here is the mill and new shed.

[deepsouth.us]

I know far too little about electric, but I know a nice shed when I see one. That, sir, is a dandy.

[Kingmt]

Wow! That is a very nice looking mill & shed.

I got a little lost reading your question. Is it just a pot switch your hooking up? If so it isn't really a switch but a resistor that is inline & may also contain a switch. Switches are normally only on one line. Pictures may help clear it up.

[Josh3760]

Wow! That is a very nice looking mill & shed.

I got a little lost reading your question. Is it just a pot switch your hooking up? If so it isn't really a switch but a resistor that is inline & may also contain a switch. Switches are normally only on one line. Pictures may help clear it up.

I'm sorry maybe I have my my abbreviations mixed up its a 60 amp speed controler bought from eBay. It has a circuit board and potentiometer built in. I understand we cannot post links I will see if I can attach a photo still learning.

[Kingmt]

I missed the PWM part. ;)

It automaticly switches the +/-. So say line in + is red & - is black & line out in forward is +red & -black. When you flip it to reverse line out is going to be -red & +black.

Does that answer it or should I reread the question again?

[Josh3760]

Here is a quick scetch of what I was thinking. This could be completely wrong. I only want the pwm to work on the forward travel. And by pass it on the return just like the woodmizer I run a few weeks ago. So the speed would be adjustable going forward but once the drum switch is pulled into reverse it will be at full speed. I hope that makes sense.

[Kingmt]

I don't know what the contacts are like on the drum switch but I'm sure that drawing won't work.

I'd say you want to bypass the PWM with the drum switch.

You want both the PWM & straight line from the battery running through the drum switch if that switch has enough contacts.

[pineywoods]

Nope, the pwm module you show does not switch the + and - leads. Some do, but not that one. You need to think a little out of the box. Normally, you would think hook the pwm module between the drum switch and the feed motor. That won't work. drum switches are normally configured as a motor reverseing switch. The pwm module needs to be connect to one of the power leads to the switch. Normally in the - lead , can be done in the + lead, but that leaves the heat sinks hot (+12 volts) all the time. Wire from the - terminal of the switch to the + lead on the pwm module. - pwm post to frame ground. This way the module provides the ground connection to the switch and the motor.

Put another way, in fwd mode, the motor will have full 12 volts continuously, the module turns the ground connection to the switch on and off 2000 times a second to control the speed.

[Josh3760]

That's pretty much what I thought. There in lies my question. I was hoping some one would have a photo or schematic how they wired theirs up. From what I understand wm does it this way. I'm still waiting for the drum switch to arrive so I can see exactly how it works.

[Josh3760]

Nope, the pwm module you show does not switch the + and - leads. Some do, but not that one. You need to think a little out of the box. Normally, you would think hook the pwm module between the drum switch and the feed motor. That won't work. drum switches are normally configured as a motor reverseing switch. The pwm module needs to be connect to one of the power leads to the switch. Normally in the - lead , can be done in the + lead, but that leaves the heat sinks hot (+12 volts) all the time. Wire from the - terminal of the switch to the + lead on the pwm module. - pwm post to frame ground. This way the module provides the ground connection to the switch and the motor.

Put another way, in fwd mode, the motor will have full 12 volts continuously, the module turns the ground connection to the switch on and off 2000 times a second to control the speed.

OK that makes more sense to me. But just to be clear there are 4 terminals on the pwm. Hook the - from switch to the + incoming lead on pwm - pwm to ground what about +&- out of the pwm?

[deadfall]

I'm thinking that Kbeitz used a controller like that one on his mill.  He'll be here soon, I'm guessing.

[pineywoods]

Two of the terminals on the circuit will be for bat (+12v) and ground. The electronics on the board need this for a power source. The other two are a plus and minus out. I'd have to see the module specs to determine whether to hook them in the ground lead to the switch or in the plus lead to the switch..It depends on how the mosfets (the components on the fined heat sinks) are connected, whether they switch the plus lead or the minus lead.

[Kbeitz]

I would use your drum switch to control two relays.
Each relay would switch two different pots.
This way you could control the speed both ways.
I did not look to see but most DC control board use a 1000k pot.
Or another way is for your drum switch to control two different boards.
On forward one back. The boards are cheaper than relays.

[Josh3760]

Two of the terminals on the circuit will be for bat (+12v) and ground. The electronics on the board need this for a power source. The other two are a plus and minus out. I'd have to see the module specs to determine whether to hook them in the ground lead to the switch or in the plus lead to the switch..It depends on how the mosfets (the components on the fined heat sinks) are connected, whether they switch the plus lead or the minus lead.

OK that makes sense to me two are just power and ground for the pwm module and the other two are line in and out to the motor. The pwm module came with no paper work saying if it was to be used on the + or - line guess I will just have to do some experimenting on the bench.

[Josh3760]

I would use your drum switch to control two relays.
Each relay would switch two different pots.
This way you could control the speed both ways.
I did not look to see but most DC control board use a 1000k pot.
Or another way is for your drum switch to control two different boards.
On forward one back. The boards are cheaper than relays.

You lost me with the relays. I thought that was the point of a drum switch. The drum switch can handle the amps directly therefore no relays are needed.. Can u explain what your referring to when u 1000k pot?

[pineywoods]

couple more comments..The poteneometer, usually refered to as a pot, can be just about any size. 5K ohms is common. It's just a voltage divider, minimal current involved. There is a type of pwm available that does switch the polarity on the output leads. With the pot at the center of it's rotation, there will be zero output. Rotating the pot in one direction gives output of one polarity, rotating the pot the other way switches the output polarity. Most commonly found on handicap scooters and electric wheel chairs, gives control of direction and speed with one control.
Can you point me to where you guys bought these modules ? I need one for a handicap scooter that got soaked, trashed the controller. I can't find a direct replacement, might be able to adapt this one...

[Kingmt]

I would use your drum switch to control two relays.
Each relay would switch two different pots.
This way you could control the speed both ways.
I did not look to see but most DC control board use a 1000k pot.
Or another way is for your drum switch to control two different boards.
On forward one back. The boards are cheaper than relays.

You lost me with the relays. I thought that was the point of a drum switch. The drum switch can handle the amps directly therefore no relays are needed.. Can u explain what your referring to when u 1000k pot?

There is all kinds of uses for relays. I commonly used them if the switch i'm using is expensive or I want to use a cheap switch. I'd rather burn up cheap relays then the contacts on my switch.

[Josh3760]

couple more comments..The poteneometer, usually refered to as a pot, can be just about any size. 5K ohms is common. It's just a voltage divider, minimal current involved. There is a type of pwm available that does switch the polarity on the output leads. With the pot at the center of it's rotation, there will be zero output. Rotating the pot in one direction gives output of one polarity, rotating the pot the other way switches the output polarity. Most commonly found on handicap scooters and electric wheel chairs, gives control of direction and speed with one control.
Can you point me to where you guys bought these modules ? I need one for a handicap scooter that got soaked, trashed the controller. I can't find a direct replacement, might be able to adapt this one...

I bought mine on eBay just search for 12v motor control. They have 40amp ones that reverse polarity with the knob as u said but I was trying to find away to do it so I don't have turn the pot on every pass. Just set it and leave it. Not lazy but just trying to be efficient.

[Kbeitz]

I would use your drum switch to control two relays.
Each relay would switch two different pots.
This way you could control the speed both ways.
I did not look to see but most DC control board use a 1000k pot.
Or another way is for your drum switch to control two different boards.
On forward one back. The boards are cheaper than relays.

You lost me with the relays. I thought that was the point of a drum switch. The drum switch can handle the amps directly therefore no relays are needed.. Can u explain what your referring to when u 1000k pot?

I had to use relays. Drum switch did not have enough connections.
I also have directional lights that shows power on to whatever.

[Josh3760]

I think I'm on the right track now. I will keep u guys posted on how it goes. Still waiting on a few parts to show up. Think I will pull the mill head inside this weekend. Working outside in the cold is getting old.

[Ga Mtn Man]

Glad you got it figured out.  Post some more pics of your mill when you get a chance. 

[pineywoods]

Take the drum switch, pwm module, a 12 volt battery, and a small motor to the workbench. Shouldn't take long to figure out the wiring. I pulled out the wiring diagram for my old old woodmizer, it switches the minus lead of the drum switch..

[Josh3760]

Glad you got it figured out.  Post some more pics of your mill when you get a chance.

Here are a few of the mill and shed

[Josh3760]

Take the drum switch, pwm module, a 12 volt battery, and a small motor to the workbench. Shouldn't take long to figure out the wiring. I pulled out the wiring diagram for my old old woodmizer, it switches the minus lead of the drum switch..

Thank you Pinney. I'm glad I joined I've learned a lot from members on here hopefully I can help someone else as u guys have helped me.

[Kbeitz]

My wiring...



 



 



 

[Josh3760]

Kbeitz are those relays? If so what kind dpdt?

[Kbeitz]

Kbeitz are those relays? If so what kind dpdt?

Yep... 8 pin DPDT....



 

[Josh3760]

Just thought I would do a little update. I got both motor mounts made and motors mounted on the frame made the control box and got most of the electrical components mounted. The power lift on the head works great my right arm is already feeling better! As for the power feed its still a work in progress. Still haven't got the wiring quite figured out. My  speed controller is not setup to control the ground like previously posted. But here are a few pics.

[Kbeitz]

 

 

[dean herring]

Can I replace the remote control cable on a 12000 lb. Warn winch with a simple toggle switch. I would like to have the switch mounted beside my log trailer winch so I don't have to hook and unhook every time. Thanks

[Remle]

Can I replace the remote control cable on a 12000 lb. Warn winch with a simple toggle switch. I would like to have the switch mounted beside my log trailer winch so I don't have to hook and unhook every time. Thanks

Yes, you can add the toggle switch to the system. I have one on my 4 wheeler with a double pole, double throw on a 3500 lb winch. The contacts burned up and the dealer wanted $ 300 for a replacement system, I found one on E-bay for $14. My system had no other parts, it just reverses the polarity to the motor. That being said your 12000 lb winch would require a lot heavier switch to handle the amperage required. How ever, I would assume that your system all ready has that taken care of and you could add the toggle switch to the system (box) where the remote system plugs in and use the toggle or remote cable if done properly. One other option is to get a wire less remote for the winch to replace the current hard wire system, they are great as well. I have one of those on a winch that can be hooked to my trailer for snatching up things like lawn mowers that do not run, it's nice to be able to steer the mower and control the winch at the same time. The most important thing is to also add a fuse to the power line to protect every thing.. learned that the hard way, stalled the winch and nearly burnt up my tractor.

[Kbeitz]

Two ways I would do this.... Search ebay for ....


Winch Remote Control Kit 12V DC

Or

12V Solenoid Relay Contactor & Winch Rocker Thumb Switch

[Josh3760]

Can I replace the remote control cable on a 12000 lb. Warn winch with a simple toggle switch. I would like to have the switch mounted beside my log trailer winch so I don't have to hook and unhook every time. Thanks

Yes, you can add the toggle switch to the system. I have one on my 4 wheeler with a double pole, double throw on a 3500 lb winch. The contacts burned up and the dealer wanted $ 300 for a replacement system, I found one on E-bay for $14. My system had no other parts, it just reverses the polarity to the motor. That being said your 12000 lb winch would require a lot heavier switch to handle the amperage required. How ever, I would assume that your system all ready has that taken care of and you could add the toggle switch to the system (box) where the remote system plugs in and use the toggle or remote cable if done properly. One other option is to get a wire less remote for the winch to replace the current hard wire system, they are great as well. I have one of those on a winch that can be hooked to my trailer for snatching up things like lawn mowers that do not run, it's nice to be able to steer the mower and control the winch at the same time. The most important thing is to also add a fuse to the power line to protect every thing.. learned that the hard way, stalled the winch and nearly burnt up my tractor.

Yep what he said. My 12k warn winch all the remote has in it is a toggle. The relay is on top of the winch.

[dean herring]

Thank you all. That will be my next project after I finish the cedar I'm sawing up now.
We got several trees to go get if it ever dries up enough.