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?? cc's for slabbing

Started by Marshall7199, September 12, 2020, 07:17:06 AM

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Marshall7199

Have a few larger logs that the LT28 is simply just to small to slab.  Considering investing into a Alaskan mill with a 36"+ saw.  I have been reviewing the wisdom on the various topics but can not get my head around how much cc/hp I need to drive a chain saw mill with a minimum 36" to 42" (est).
I realize I need the Hp to drive the chain and a decent oiler.  However I am struggling to dial in what models (used) I need to look for.  I am sure a Magnum 880 would do it but really don't want to invest a fortune for a saw that I would only use occasionally. 
Rookie learning from the masters.

Greenhighlander

I would think you would want a 660 or 395 xp at a minimum.  I am sure there may be smaller saws that might do it , but both of those are pretty well liked for csm.  
IMHO when it comes to csm bigger is def better as it is less stressful on the bigger saws.  

lxskllr

I'm using a 661 with a 36" bar. That gives me a ~30" effective cut. I could remove the dogs and get a couple more inches if necessary. It's working out pretty well for me. I'm not that into milling. I mill to make useful stuff I need, and not as hobby/profession. My interest lies in the art of taking trees down. That said, I have zero need for something as big as an 880 in the field, but a 661 works out well as my "big saw", so it can be used in the field or on the mill.

If you wanted to slab huge wood, doubling smaller powerheads like the 90cc class saws would be feasible(and expensive), and allow them to be used for other purposes if the 120cc class saws are too big.

Al_Smith

You could do it but it would be very slow .Even with over 100 cc it's slow also .I've tried it with 76 cc and it was slow as an old snail. With 123 cc it was like a younger snail .

mike_belben

Chainsaw milling is gonna be slow no matter what you run.  I have a 395xp on a carriage to make 4sided lumber.  Soon as youve got 8 inches of wood thickness to cut, grab a snickers cuz its gonna be a while. 
Praise The Lord

doc henderson

you can also go to skip tooth chain and ripping chain to take the strain off the saw.  if you found someone with a CSM but no band mill, maybe you can barter and get him to cut slabs and you can do smaller stuff for that you can mill.  at least get the professional courtesy price.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Al_Smith

Much ado about so called milling chain .It throws sawdust not chips .Chisel will cut a lot fast held at about 40 degrees to the grain .Enough to pull noodles but not enough to plug up .It won't be as smooth as a bandsaw but smoother than a circle mill .Besides if your going to plane it anyway what makes a difference ?I think  most chainsaw slabbed stuff would have been firewood any way so the kerf and waste doesn't count for much IMO .BTW Noodles burn pretty good but it takes a lot of them . 

charles mann

I was running 2166 jonesred with a 28" bar and it was a struggle, i played with a crosscut and ripping, and as mentioned above, x-cut and kept at an angle seemed to work as well as a ripping. I bought 661 with a 36" and there def was a noticeable difference between the 2 saws. 
Its always better to have more power than not enough. Nothing says you HAVE to use it all, a d the 661 is still good for felling and bucking. 
When i go away from hm, i take the 661, 2166, 3 spare chains for each and a spare bar for each saw. 
I primarily run the 36" on my 661 but have a 24" as a back up and if need be, separate the bar/chain from the power head to free the other bar, or bring out the other saw. 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
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Marshall7199

Thanks for the comments.  Looks like I will be looking for at least a 660.  Doc I like the barter approach; just need to find the right person.
Rookie learning from the masters.

Real1shepherd

Rather than buying a whole new setup and the cost of a big CC saw.....consider going with a mill that has like a band saw blade.

Kevin

sawguy21

"Have a few larger logs that the LT28 is simply just to small to slab." Hardly worthwhile going to a larger mill for a few logs.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

EarlyAchres

I use an MS660 w a 36" bar in a mill I made from a youtube video. I did have to modify the oiler after cutting a few slabs but it was easy after finding a "how to" on this site. I slab the windfall oak and pine I get on my 20 acres, nothing too serious. Another topic you might want to look into is drying and what sealer to use on the slab ends to keep your stock from splitting. And down the rabbit hole we go......

Marshall7199

I have a Woodmizer LT28 that I do the "normal" stuff with and a DH kiln.  Just looking for a solution to slab the larger stuff i have.
Rookie learning from the masters.

Bruno of NH

Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

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