OldJarheads Milling Thread...

[OlJarhead]

It's been a while since I shared a video here but I thought I'd share this one so you can see the mill running great   I'm really thinking it was something so simple as oxidation on the wires.  Hydraulics and electric motors all running great again and I milled up 5 logs in the time I had between burning slash and other projects so it was a great day!  Now to fall some more timber and get back to milling!!

[Ben Cut-wright]

You made a comment in your video I didn't see here in the forum.

OJH said, "this light wasn't coming on when the engine was running.  For some reason it wasn't."

That's a very important clue.  The charge warning light should come on KOEO and then go out when the alternator begins charging.  The warning light alone does not pinpoint what is wrong, it does pinpoint where testing should begin.   The alternator will normally fail to begin charging if that light does not work.

Also, you made several comments on battery voltage.  12 or 12 (?+) is NOT good. The battery should read 12.5 volts (plus or minus 0.1-0.2) at rest ,steady state,  not charging and 1-2 volts above steady state during charging.

There is 0.66 volts difference between a 100% charged battery and a 0% charged battery. 

Were the wires you tested for continuity disconnected when the OHMS test was preformed? 

[OlJarhead]

Thanks 

1.  Yes I disconnected the wires to test for continuity.  
2.  Battery voltage starts around 12.65 off the solar panel and drops to around 12.5 or so.
3.  Battery voltage at 11.9-12.x (low) was after starting the engine without the alternator working.
4.  When alternator is working (now) the voltage at battery shows 14.79v which is inline with what WM tells me there should be.

The battery is old so it may need to be replaced but at least now, the alternor is charging.

On the light, I agree.  It should come on until the alternator starts to charge then go out so that's a little strange and needs further testing.
Cheers!

[Ben Cut-wright]

Never know the other person's ability with DMM's, therefore the basic questions.  IMO, continuity testing using the ohmmeter is only an indication, doesn't prove the circuit is sound.

To be clear, are you saying the charge indicator light does not function?  It is *possible the alternator might begin charging from residual magnetism if rotation is extreme.  Certainly not the normal method of operation and not reliable.

If you measured ohms between the ignition switch and the alternator, the charge indicator light should have been included in that circuit.  Voltage measurement at the alternator would have been sufficient to determine proper function of that charge circuit.  IF there is voltage at the disconnected wire at the alternator, ground that wire and check if the charge light illuminates.  If it does NOT illuminate when grounded there is a fault in the circuit or the light has failed.

Don't know how much cranking it took to start the engine but...12.65 volts was probably only a surface charge if the voltage dropped to 11.9 volts after starting the engine.  Can't comment on the solar charging but the battery at rest tested 12.5 volts and then dropped to 11.9 vots after starting. The way that reads is the battery has very little reserve and the alternator will be required to carry much/majority of the load. 

[Old Timer]

I maybe talking without contest here because my WM mill an early version and probably the alternator have been changed as well. My alternator light wouldn't  come on with the key on and engine off. The light bulb has enough wattage ( 2watts and 16ohms) to excite the alternator to begin the charging cycle. When that light burned out it wouldn't charge. The challenge I had is pretty much all indicator lights this day and age are all LED which doesn't have enough wattage to excite the alternator, had to install a resistor inline with the light. Now the light functions visually and the battery gets charged.

[Magicman]

Thanks Old Timer.  That is a very timely addition to this conversation. 

[chet]

The challenge I had is pretty much all indicator lights this day and age are all LED which doesn't have enough wattage to excite the alternator, had to install a resistor inline with the light. Now the light functions visually and the battery gets charged.

I found that the none LED trailer marker lights work great for this purpose.

[Ben Cut-wright]

In order to modify the excite circuit properly and safely the regulator type must be determined, whether for the DN, the SI and the CS alternators.  Just because one method may work does not mean it will last and altering the circuit may cause damage. The "LED" type does not support excitation, it is only an indicator driven by a small transistor.  If the LED isn't working but the alternator is charging it does not follow that adding MORE resistance is the solution.

[Old Timer]

Oops.. I have to clarify my actions. My WM mill is a 1990 vintage and it has two identical incandescent indicator lights, one for the alternator the other for the "Key On". When the "Alt" one burned out I looked at the elec schematic in the manual that came with the mill which shows the excite wire coming from the key switch thru the indicator light and on to the alternator. I verified in fact that is the way it was done. So I take the indicator light from the "Key On" and hook it up to a power supply that displays volts, amps. and watts. I take note of the current thats going thru it, (2 watts 16ohms) and I replicate those values using an aircraft "Push to Test" indicator light that has a very small incandescent bulb (.078 watts) and a small potentiometer, hooked to the power supply I can see while adjusting the potentiometer I will stop when I achieve the 2watts, therefore I believe value wise I have replicated the original. Prior to doing the above I read other posts on this site and fully understood such a Ben Cut-wright is stating is correct, electronics have moved past the days where they excite the alternator by passing it thru a incandescent light bulb.

[OlJarhead]

Thanks guys.

The light comes on before starting the motor, once running it goes out.  I assume it is working correctly and have used it to mill several logs since.

Seemed when the exciter wire was unplugged it did not come on and I thought it would to indicate and issue, doesn't appear to work that way.