About got this ready to haul logs on, loading by parbuckling. Do I need to worry about shoring up the load side or does it look heavy enough to skip it?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45670/trailer1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1501014875)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45670/trailer2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1501015624)
I have 3 pieces of 2x2 1/4 for the ramps. Wondered if I might need to put a jack at least under the outside pieces.
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Loading a 42" butt Red Oak. No need for outriggers, but I did learn to lay some old tires in the trailer bed, but with no sides, you will not have that "dropping" problem. :o
Well, I think its called Parbucking, not buckling :D :D
All kidding aside, that is a sweet trailer you have there. When you say 2x2½, I'm assuming steel, not wood ramps. If that is "structural steel" that is C shaped, it may bend on you with a big log.
Here is my little wimpy trailer. I put a 3,500# axle with electric brakes on it. It is an old boat trailer that I added 3# structural steel cross pieces and some 2x3x¼" angle on the rear so I could have a flat deck. In the background you can see my super heavy duty ramps (upside down). They are 4# structural steel on edge with 2x2x3/16" angle iron "treads". They act as log rests (sort of) and I can stick a 4x4 in to hold a log as we preposition the cable. I think that load was a bit over 3,000#s.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20170613_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1497414725)
My trailer does not move much as the logs come up the ramps - just keep it attached to the tow vehicle.
Ramps are 2" x 2" 1/4" wall square steel tubing.
Hmmm, are Streetdoc and Ditchdoc related?
There is not a lot of "beam strength" in a 2x2 tube. But it all depends on what your are loading. If'n you are just doing 12-14" logs that are 12-14' long, probably ok. But if you try that with a 2,000# 27" dbh log, I'm bettin' they would bend.
I just sawed out a couple 4x6-8' for my ramps.
PC
That looks like a heavy tandem axle trailer. I don't think the load side needs shoring up. I don't shore mine up and it is not as heavy looking as yours.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/gunther_oak_001.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1421405642)
Quote from: ljohnsaw on July 25, 2017, 06:24:33 PM
Well, I think its called Parbucking, not buckling :D :D
Actually in the South it is called "Cross Hauling". ;D
Always use caution . Know exactly how much each log weighs and capacity of tires , trailer , truck etc. Plan on coming home with ten fingers and ten toes!
Quote from: kelLOGg on July 26, 2017, 07:57:33 AM
That looks like a heavy tandem axle trailer. I don't think the load side needs shoring up. I don't shore mine up and it is not as heavy looking as yours.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/gunther_oak_001.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1421405642)
Are your ramps steel tubing? My deck is 32-33" high.
Quote from: red on July 26, 2017, 08:37:08 AM
Always use caution . Know exactly how much each log weighs and capacity of tires , trailer , truck etc. Plan on coming home with ten fingers and ten toes!
Yea, going to get the trailer weighed. Have a SRW F-350 to pull it with.
Are your ramps steel tubing? My deck is 32-33" high.
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My ramps are 2" x 4" x 8' with a 3/16 wall. I have bent them so now I use midway supports (seen in the pic) for heavy logs. My trailer is 28" high.
Bob
Quote from: ljohnsaw on July 25, 2017, 06:24:33 PM
Well, I think its called Parbucking, not buckling :D :D
Google returns parbuckling results if you search for parbucking.
Hmm, well, you learn something new every day. smiley_dizzy I assumed headscratch the root was from bucking hay - that is to stack it. But parbuckling is for moving round objects using rotational advantage. Seems around here the term parbucking is used most often - unless I was not reading clearly (probably...)
I first used parbucking to load round hay bales. This was before I had a sawmill and before I was reading the Forum and I didn't know the method had a name.
The trailer will be fine. Make some drop in bunks to go in stake pockets for the far side so you dont roll them right onto yourself. Id make the standards two tiers high, that trailer can take plenty.
For the ramps, truss the underside with a strap of rebar or banding in tension, laid over one or two standoffs at the midpoint, if theres any question about them folding up.
Got a lead on a Warn 8274 winch. No cable on it. Would you consider synthetic rope or go back with cable for abrasion resistance?
Quote from: Ditchdoc on August 09, 2017, 11:20:01 AM
Got a lead on a Warn 8274 winch. No cable on it. Would you consider synthetic rope or go back with cable for abrasion resistance?
Cable. Also, get yourself some 4"x4" and run them across the deck. That will make it a lot easy to unload. You can make up some 45 degree chocks to nail in the 4x4's for blocking.
Why is cable preferred over winch rope for parbuckling? I have used rope for years doing extreme offloading and recovery. To me rope seems safer.
The synthetic rope made for winches will not spring back and take you off your feet it you
break it. it just falls to the ground. Try that with nylon or cable and you might not live to tell
about it.
Rope is for fishing boats and tree guys.
Its been marketed to offroad people because its lightweight and very profitable when cut into 100' sections and the ends braided around a thimble. BIG money to be made by telling 4x4ers how safe fishing rope is for their winch.
You wont see rope used for skidding logs on logging sites, on tow trucks, cranes, or any commercial rig other than tree service (cuz its light) and fishing boats (cuz it wont rust).
Quote from: WranglerSS on August 10, 2017, 08:36:52 AM
Why is cable preferred over winch rope for parbuckling? I have used rope for years doing extreme offloading and recovery. To me rope seems safer.
Look at it this way, trucks, jeeps have wheels, logs don't. If your trailer that you have is just for logs, look into a arch and load from the back. So much easy and you are out the way if a cable pops.
This is mine that I built. I can remove the arch by unbolting two bolts. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38788/IMG_1138.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1481123333)
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Quote from: Chop Shop on August 10, 2017, 02:17:10 PM
Rope is for fishing boats and tree guys.
Its been marketed to offroad people because its lightweight and very profitable when cut into 100' sections and the ends braided around a thimble. BIG money to be made by telling 4x4ers how safe fishing rope is for their winch.
You wont see rope used for skidding logs on logging sites, on tow trucks, cranes, or any commercial rig other than tree service (cuz its light) and fishing boats (cuz it wont rust).
Tow trucks do use MasterPull 3/4" winch rope on rollbacks in my neck of the woods.
Tow trucks do use MasterPull 3/4" winch rope on rollbacks in my neck of the woods.
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Their website lists 262 foot of 3/4" synthetic tow truck and wrecker rope at $5,334. And...they are out of it!
If your trailer that you have is just for logs, look into a arch and load from the back. So much easy and you are out the way if a cable pops.
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Not going to be exclusively for logs.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45670/trailer3~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1502416576)
Nice equipment trailer. You still could add a arch and build it to were you can unbolt it. The way your trailer it built, that would be easy and 10x more easy to load logs from the back. ;D
I made my arch unboltable. Two large bolts and it's off.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Trailer_arch~2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1502454552)
Winch rope frays very easily when rubbing on rocks or sharp objects. The best reason to have it is no kinetic energy. So when it snaps is usually just drops to the ground.
It is required for many competitions because of the improved safety factor over steel cable.
Anyone here using a Warn 8274 on a trailer? If so how did you mount it? Hope to look at if Tue. Think it was manufactured in 1976.
I have a Warn . I put class 3 hitches on everything and the winch is in a carrier. I use fork lift plugins .
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Warn-winch.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1502623250)
I made a receiver mount for my Warn M8000 winch. My gooseneck trailer has a 2" receiver welded on the front of the bed so for parbuckling I use a snachblock on the opposite side to redirect the line.
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The 8274 mounts vertically. Pic of one:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45670/8274.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1502811792)
has to mount on something like this:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45670/W8274-2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1502811264)
Could weld a 2" tube to the bottom of the mount or see if it would bolt to a Curt or DrawTite receiver mount.
Another consideration is weight, thing weighs ~130#.
The 8274 Warns are heavy but by far the fastest winch made.
I had one on the front of a '68 Bronco, and it was bullet proof. I do not recall that it was that heavy because I could pick it up.
I have no idea how much my 16,500 with the carrier weights.
I can pick it up but I would not want to have to carry it to far.
Here's a few pictures from back before I had a sawmill. I'm loading up some birch logs for a trip to a sawyer. And parbuckling is the correct term. I have since fabricated better ramps for the purpose and still use the four wheeler for a power source.
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You can par buckle just about anything . Like a solar kiln that blew over in a storm
Quebecnewf
Or a building...
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Sounds like a new competition brewing, prizes given out at the next pig roast.
Most Elaborate Par Buckling - 2017
I parbuckled logs onto the back of my '49 GMC truck before I knew it was called parbuckling. If asked I would have told you a parbuckle was a belt buckle worn by a golfer. Shirley that must be worth something elaborate or not.
Many years ago I parbuckled a VW in to the back of my trailer
so I could take it to the junkyard.
Wait! you took something to the junkyard?
All of my hopes and dreams have been crushed.
Nah J/k....
It's ok Crusarius, he was young and foolish back then. ;D
few, thank goodness :) I am glad he grew out of that.
Quote from: Crusarius on August 11, 2017, 12:19:25 PM
Winch rope frays very easily when rubbing on rocks or sharp objects. The best reason to have it is no kinetic energy. So when it snaps is usually just drops to the ground.
It is required for many competitions because of the improved safety factor over steel cable.
So true. In areas I can't get my tractor, I can't count how many times my Warn 8000 with steel cable has dragged logs over rocks that a braided rope would not hold up to. As with all our equipment, caution is the word. Rope would be nice for the weight savings, but cable durability is more important to me. Now if I only used it at the beach...
Not all of it... I kept the bottom half...
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Quote from: outpost22 on September 29, 2017, 10:46:08 AM
Quote from: Crusarius on August 11, 2017, 12:19:25 PM
Winch rope frays very easily when rubbing on rocks or sharp objects. The best reason to have it is no kinetic energy. So when it snaps is usually just drops to the ground.
It is required for many competitions because of the improved safety factor over steel cable.
So true. In areas I can't get my tractor, I can't count how many times my Warn 8000 with steel cable has dragged logs over rocks that a braided rope would not hold up to. As with all our equipment, caution is the word. Rope would be nice for the weight savings, but cable durability is more important to me. Now if I only used it at the beach...
Rope also acts as an insulator retaining the heat around the drum. The steel is so much better for heat dissipation.
I learned it by an ole timer,, green saplings, not(switches) of course,,he notched them to hold from sliding during the sag portion, but this was in the timber back then, in fact we did a few just the same,,we liked the cable for the rolling part, and a chain for the anchor point. Big ends will walk ahead, so have a hook on the ready, cable allows for nice re-adjusting, for straighter loads, back stops are important, and as an old boss use to say, at all cost, try to avoid the lazy man's load,, may be an old saying,,but after a few mis haps, I soon learned the reason,,
I need to add, I since the early days, added some heavy wall piping, (heavy wall) , to my tools,,but now, I can't lift them, Length has its advantages, and disadvantages,,short is good for a limited loading area, while the longer ones help when going higher. It works, has for years, not saying it's always easy.
Quote from: Crusarius on September 29, 2017, 07:46:50 AM
Wait! you took something to the junkyard?
All of my hopes and dreams have been crushed.
:D :D :D