Was sawing some 1x12" out of three really nice EWP logs a neighbor down the road gave me. I saw mostly red oak and have moved to 4 deg blades which has worked out well. Rather than fine dust I was getting wet dust with stringy drag out on the blade exit side of the boards. Then after a couple passes started hearing a thumping and banging in the head. Looked things over initially and checked blade and belt tensions but found nothing. After a few more passes looked again and found the blade belts on the pulleys had build up of the stringy stuff causing the blade to "bounce around" and hit the protective pad on the top sheet metal housing between the two pulleys. I guess that pad is there for just this reason or if you break a blade? Cleaned off the belts and ran a few more passes then it started in again. Cleaned again and added some Pinesol to the coolant which did not help. What am I doing wrong with this EWP?
do you have any 7 degree blades?
what degree bandsaw blade in Sawmills and Milling (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=95785.0;viewresults)
I just finished cutting 50 1x12" EWP boards myself. I did notice more than usual buildup on the belts but didn't see the issue you are having. I'm using 7 deg blades and had lube turned off. Did you try turning lube completely off, and make sure dust chute is clear? Also maybe your feed is too fast, i noticed if i rush thru pine it tends to string on blade exit ... May just be a very wet piece of pine.
No 7 deg blades but I do have 10 deg, would that help? It did seem like I was moving fast through the EWP compared to the oak so I slowed down which help the stingy a bit but still got the build up. Cut back on the coolant some to point where getting some visual build up on blade which I figured was transferring to the belts so turned back up just enough for blade to look clean.
Read through the poll on what degree blade everyone is using. Looks like 10s are the all around but a lot of posts all over with what works.
I too have noticed wet dust and stringy pull outs with the 4 degree blades. As far as build up. When I bought my mill (LT50) the service guy suggested spray Pam cooking spray on the blade for about 20 seconds. In addition he said a cotton picker spindle cleaner/detergent (4.00 a gallon, mix a few ounces in with your 5 gal water) helps too. I have been sawing a lot of fresh yellow pine and haven't had a problem with build up.
Quote from: Rhodemont on May 10, 2018, 12:10:01 PMthe protective pad on the top sheet metal housing between the two pulleys. I guess that pad is there for just this reason or if you break a blade?
Actually it is there to dampen any vibration that the blade may have between the two blade wheels. Your owners manual will give you the correct adjustment depending upon the sawmill model.
I've just finished two large orders of white pine siding ( logs winter cut and green) I recently started using a mixture of windshield washer fluid, simple green (a cleaning solution) and water. Still playing with the ratios. About 2/3 washer fluid, 1 cup simple green, then top with water. 5 gallon jug. The band stays clean but some build up on the belts. I wear rubberized gloves which cleans the belts easy when I change bands.
I have one more of the EWP (very green) logs so going to: Read the LT35 manual on that pad per MM, Try the 4 deg with pam per Tin Horse, then switch to 10 deg and see how it goes. We do not have cotton up here so doubt I will find cotton picker spindle what ever that is so will stick with the pinesol for now.
Quote from: Rhodemont on May 10, 2018, 12:48:10 PM
No 7 deg blades but I do have 10 deg, would that help? It did seem like I was moving fast through the EWP compared to the oak so I slowed down which help the stingy a bit but still got the build up. Cut back on the coolant some to point where getting some visual build up on blade which I figured was transferring to the belts so turned back up just enough for blade to look clean.
The 10° with 7/8" tooth spacing is all I use! Once in a while when I have a bunch of hardwood to saw, I'll sharpen a couple of them to 8°, but then they go back to 10° next time they get sharpened!
You will almost always get those strings on the exit side of your cant!
I add about a cup of cheap dish detergent and a cup of pinesol to five gallons of water in my lube system! Usually does pretty good, but once in a while I will get some buildup and I just increase the lube flow onto the blade!
Does your mills have a good chip deflector running close to the blade to keep sawdust and bark from getting under the wheels. Steve
I've bought extra belts for my LT 40, and change/clean belts with each blade change. I've found that by doing that, I've been able to cut faster and keep nice, clean cuts on each pass. Woodmizer belts change easily, if your mill doesn't, then I'd check for cracks, cuts, or anything that will cause the build up on your bands, and try to clean them whenever possible. Takes a little time, but seems to be well worth the effort.
Change belts every time a blade change?
Must get expensive.
This is tongue in cheek as i realize what you are doing.
I have build up on the blades and belts when sawing WP as well as stringy stuff on the exit side of the cant.
I run a timed spurt of what some call lube but is really cleaner/ cooler of ZEP 50 and water.
My process is to clean the blades with a spray of diesel fuel before removing the blades while at speed.
Then run either my leather glove or the side of a craftsman screwdriver with a 4 sided shaft on the belts to clean off the crap.
Works for me and BTW I Use turbo 7s and 7-34 blades exclusively.
You can get the spindle cleaner at the following website. Have to order at least 4 gals. 9.00 flat shipping and if you get 200.00 or more, shipping is free. Good luck. 225-128 COTTON PICKER SPINDLE LUBE-1 GAL 128 - Quality Farm Supply (https://qualityfarmsupply.com/Product/COTTON-HARVESTING/SPINDLE-LUBRICANT/225-dash-128) And the price is 5.00 a gallon not 4.00.
EWP is pretty juicy this time of year, I keep a spray bottle of diesel and give it a squirt once in awhile. Scrape the belts on blade changes.
I used a recommended blend of 50/50 diesel and chainsaw bar oil for awhile. It worked well on the bands but seemed to cause the belts to deteriorate pretty fast. Has anyone else tried this?
Quote from: petefrom bearswamp on May 10, 2018, 06:09:38 PM
Change belts every time a blade change?
Must get expensive.
This is tongue in cheek as i realize what you are doing.
I keep three sets of belts in my truck, and clean them before I get to the job. I had a problem once while milling due to sap/gunk build up, and found the problem was due to scratches/cuts in the belt. I usually mill with my son, and he cleans them whenever he has the time (while offloading etc.). He checks them for cuts or gouges while he cleans them. I believe it costs $26 bucks for two belts, and it is very easy on a woodmizer to take them off and change them out. The only time it is really necessary is with pine or some green hardwoods, but it has gotten to be a habit of ours, and I do see a difference in the finished product. ;D