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Stihl 029

Started by luvmexfood, September 10, 2013, 07:27:32 PM

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luvmexfood

Couple of questions. First the owners manual says their is a screw on the bottom of the saw to adjust the amount of bar oil up or down. I used to use almost a tank of bar oil to a tank of gas. Now it is more like almost a half tank to a tank of gas. Would like to increase a little. Never to much lubricant.

Second. Sometimes when I rev up to start cutting or when I start it just bogs down and quits. Usually I will have to go to full choke till it hits and then back down to normal to get it to start and try and build it up slowly to full RPMS. When I get it going it cuts good. Any suggestions? Tired of pulling the starter over and over to get it to start.

Thanks in advance to any suggestions. Not much of an engine tuner but need it now and don't want to take it to shop for week and pay a big bill to get it fixed. Basically the last time I had it in shop they were saying if it's much at all better to buy a new saw. Have Stihls become throw aways?
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

JohnG28

For the oil consumption you may want to start with the filter and oil line. If it worked where you liked it before and you haven't turned it down then the adjustment likely is not the problem. As for the hard starting and slow build up of power you probably need to clean the carb. This is an older model and likely has some gunk inside or components which have become brittle. Check the fuel line for cracks and holes, as well as the impulse line. If there is a spark screen make sure it is clean. If you were buying oem parts and having the dealer do the work then the costs likely would be more than a new saw, however this is probably something that doesn't require a lot of work on your part and could likely be solved in an afternoon.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

jd2007

I agree, it does sound like a carburetor issue.  Given the age of the chainsaw if its neve had the carburetor cleaned then its probably due.  Good luck!
Stihl 029S/039, MS280, MS250
Craftsman 4218

luvmexfood

Thanks. I may not have mentioned in the early post but I can't find any adjustment screw on the bottom where the manual says it is. I am good at taking things apart. As for getting them back together correctly. Well....
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

beenthere

Take a pic of the bottom and post it. We can then point it out, I'd think.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

ladylake

 Try opening your low adjuster about 1/4 turn first.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

luvmexfood

Well found the oil adjustment today. You can always find something when you are not looking for it. Happened to have saw up on it's side fueling. Their is a whole in the handle on the bottom that you have to go through to get to the adjustment. Even had a small diagram. I was searching on the saw its self. Pretty much quit today. Will work on it in the am. Thanks all.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

luvmexfood

Got some shop time yesterday and started on the saw. I had cleaned the air filter a couple of weeks back but it was real dirty. Blew it out good with compresser and ran the saw in the shop with both it on and off and it ran good. Thought I had it fixed.

Went to cut some hard maple and when the saw got good and hot it problem started again. Removed air filter and ran it. A little better but still the same problem. Will try and get time this weekend to further troubleshoot. Did notice when I had the airfilter off that it did blow some gas out of the back of the carb.

Lost job so I am select cutting timber on the farm that is beginning to damage. Loading them on a trailer behind pick-up and taking to log yard. Got to get it going.

Have to get a water line from a spring to water trough unstopped before I can work any further on it. Did notice when cutting a slight decrease in power or so I think.

Everyone have a good weekend.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

joe_indi

Your saw could have a partially blocked fuel filter (Pickup body) in the fuel tank. When it is partially blocked it will rev well without load, but will start gasping for fuel in the cut.
Replace it.
If things are yet to improve after that next item to inspect is the strainer inside the carburetor.

AdkStihl

Quote from: luvmexfood on September 13, 2013, 08:57:25 AMDid notice when I had the airfilter off that it did blow some gas out of the back of the carb

That's a sign of low compression and would explain the loss of power.

Pull the muffler and take look at the piston. I bet you'll find it doesn't look pretty. If youre not sure what to look for, pull the muffler and take a picture for us.
J.Miller Photography

JohnG28

Quote from: AdkStihl on September 13, 2013, 09:49:56 AM
Quote from: luvmexfood on September 13, 2013, 08:57:25 AMDid notice when I had the airfilter off that it did blow some gas out of the back of the carb

That's a sign of low compression and would explain the loss of power.

Pull the muffler and take look at the piston. I bet you'll find it doesn't look pretty. If youre not sure what to look for, pull the muffler and take a picture for us.

I'm thinking this is possible also. Running with a dirty air filter can put a strain of the saw for sure and starve it from air under load...not good. Pulling off the muffler and looking at the p/c is probably a good idea while you're working on it.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

luvmexfood

Will do all the above posts. Gosh it sure feels good when people you don't even know jumps in and offers advice. Thanks a bunch. Used to watch the movie "Man from Snowy River". In it one of the characters says to a good guy "You have a place by my camp fire anytime". Same goes here. Pretty good way to say thanks.



Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

luvmexfood

Ok. Here is what I have done so far. Pulled muffler and looked at piston. There were some pictures of a good piston vs. a scored one on this site or TBN. Piston looked good and muffler screen was clean. Took off carb. Pulled off the cover that had four screws and a little plastic type gasket under it. A little gunk but not much. The rubber (I guess diaphram) was riveted on in the middle so could not get it off. Was going to change sparkplug then and found the old one was loose. Tightened and saw ran good for a day or two then back to old problems. Replaced plug but the old one looked good. When saw was acting up I cracked open the fuel tank cap and did not here any gushing sould like it was sucking air. I also adjusted carb per owner manual instructions but it did not help. One other question. I have read where a saw is 4 cycleing on another post. What is that and how do you determine that is happening? Don't think I have that problem just curious.

Here are my thoughts on what to do:
Try and get an aftermarket carb and just replace.
Get new fuel filter and hose and replace.
Get new fuel tank vent line and replace.

Does anyone know of a place where I can order all the above from one stop or should I just go to a Stihl dealer and get all. Hate to pay the dealer prices. Thought about taking to a dealer for repairs but hate to pay the high rates for labor and Stihl parts.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

luvmexfood

Forgot to mention I am a little hardheaded and don't want to let something like this beat me. Also want to learn how to work on saws and small engines so only way I will learn is by trying. No schools around close that teach this.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

JohnG28

When you opened the carb what you were looking at was the metering diaphragm. The rivet pushes on a metering lever and inlet needle on the other side. The diaphragm comes off, just need to be careful if you're not replacing it. Take it off and clean with carb cleaner, then reassemble in same order. Do the same on the other side as well. The side you opened is open to the atmosphere to make the fuel pump work, so some gunk is going to be in there. Probably some deeper inside also. As for four stroking and tuning, check out this site. Real good place to get info.

http://www.madsens1.com/mnu_sawmaint.htm
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

ladylake


Good advice, if your going to run a saw learn how to tune it right.  You'll save your self $$$$  by knowing how.    Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

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