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Trailer build for HM126

Started by Dana Stanley, May 27, 2019, 06:56:40 PM

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Dana Stanley

Started the trailer for my mill. It's about 10" wider as that was the smallest axle I could find, and if I ever upgrade I will be good to go. I had some scrap c channel, but bought 2x4 box tube for the rails and ends. I bought 6 - 2000 lb jacks, 2000 lb axle, tires, lights, and coupling; I should have around $700.00 into it when I'm done. Because I have no way to fixture it I have a bit of an arch in it from welding the axle on, I may try to heat it out, but the way I planned on mounting the track will allow me to adjust the track on the trailer if I need to. This is about 12 hours into it.

Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

Dana Stanley

After thinking about it, I will probably try heating the other side of the rail to get the arch out. I will flip it, support it on the ends again, weld the tabs that hold the track on, and if that doesn't help I can use a rose bud to heat it dark red above the offending welds (600 degrees). Any advise?
Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

btulloh

If you can't get the arch out of the rail, you may need to shim to saw tracks.  That might be the ticket anyway.  It might be a good idea to mount the track on the rails so that it can be adjusted in the same way as the feet work, but through-bolted.

Looks like the trailer is coming along nicely.
HM126

Crusarius

I don't see to much reason you need to straighten the trailer. is the sawmill is going to be bolted to it and adjustable? If so I would not mess with straightening. Just make sure you have adjustment in the bolt holes.

Looks good. Looks to me like your axle is upside down. the curve should be up. but I guess in such a light application it doesn't really matter.

doc henderson

I had that problem on a scout trailer for fire wood (6 x 10 x 2 foot tall sides).  I did not notice it until after sides were welded and it has a permanent arch.  I should have supported under the axle while welding.  It works fine, and is noticed mostly by me!  I am sure you will figure it out.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

luap

Quote from: Dana Stanley on May 28, 2019, 06:49:13 AM
After thinking about it, I will probably try heating the other side of the rail to get the arch out. I will flip it, support it on the ends again, weld the tabs that hold the track on, and if that doesn't help I can use a rose bud to heat it dark red above the offending welds (600 degrees). Any advise?
If you have an air compressor, get an pneumatic peening tool and peen your welds and that will relieve some of the stress from the weld. I have also seen a heat and quench method used to take warpage out much like auto body dent repair. Just heating will be hard to control and to get the two sides the same.

goose63

 

 



 



 

When I made mine I used 2x4x1/4 tube the frame did not arch at all
goose
if you find your self in a deep hole stop digging
saw logs all day what do you get lots of lumber and a day older
thank you to all the vets

olcowhand

Hey Goose,
I use cans like the one on the Trailer frame for "Welder Prep", too.
Olcowhand's Workshop, LLC

They say the mind is the first to go; I'm glad it's something I don't use!

Ezekiel 36:26-27

doc henderson

Ol cow hand, i think that was just for scale :D :D, and I assume it preps the guys doing the welding, not the material.   smiley_beertoast
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

luap

Looking at the picture now, The spring shackle welded on right where the cross member is welded on has contributed to your stress problem .I would leave it alone and correct wherever the mill bolts on with shims if necessary.

Dana Stanley

Quote from: Crusarius on May 28, 2019, 07:53:10 AM
I don't see to much reason you need to straighten the trailer. is the sawmill is going to be bolted to it and adjustable? If so I would not mess with straightening. Just make sure you have adjustment in the bolt holes.

Looks good. Looks to me like your axle is upside down. the curve should be up. but I guess in such a light application it doesn't really matter.
Ya, good catch, I need to put the axle on top of the spring, not below, what a maroon aye!
Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

Crusarius

when I built my mill i used an old horse trailer axle and the wheels and tires that were on it. I now have a tire wheel combo that I have to be very careful with. if I do not raise the jacks far enough I can slice the top of the tire clean off with the mill. Watch out for that on your trailer build.

:) 

olcowhand

Quote from: doc henderson on May 28, 2019, 05:22:16 PM
Ol cow hand, i think that was just for scale :D :D, and I assume it preps the guys doing the welding, not the material.   smiley_beertoast
Hey Doc,
In this case, the term "Welder" can have two meanings: The Machine & "The Guys doing the Welding". You definitely are on the right track.....
Olcowhand's Workshop, LLC

They say the mind is the first to go; I'm glad it's something I don't use!

Ezekiel 36:26-27

Dana Stanley

I've been banned from using welder prep, for 30 years now, or I would have had a few cans for scale too! If I still used it there would be more incidents like the axle, which I corrected today!
Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

Dana Stanley

More issues with the axle. Turns out 13 inch tires are deeper than what is usually used on the axle, which put the tire against the frame. I had to widen the axle and move the spring mounts. Another 1-1/2 Hours

 

 

 

Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

Crusarius

that looks good. at least trailer axles are easy to fix...

Dana Stanley

Added the Jacks, and the track mounting tabs today. I had some 3x6x1/4" angle and used that for the tabs. 8 hours today 14 tabs, 6 jacks. The arch isn't as bad, but it is still there, I'm still thinking about heating it opposite the shackle welds to try to get it a little straighter!

 

 

Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

doc henderson

looks great Dana, always takes longer than expected, esp. if you maintain high standards.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

goose63

Dana that trailer is looking mighty good 8)
goose
if you find your self in a deep hole stop digging
saw logs all day what do you get lots of lumber and a day older
thank you to all the vets

Dana Stanley

Quote from: doc henderson on June 01, 2019, 08:48:07 PM
looks great Dana, always takes longer than expected, esp. if you maintain high standards.
Ya, it looks like a few hours of work, but the band saw only moves so fast, and I was trying to keep everything as square and flat as possible. I also ground 45s in all the tabs and in the channel where I mounted the jacks, to get good solid welds. Not sure if I want to weld the track bolts to the tabs, or weld the track mount plates to the tabs, or through bolt it! That was my original plan, but welding is a lot less work than drilling. Through bolting would probably be the strongest, then next strongest would be welding the plates with the bolts already in them!!
Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

doc henderson

If some one had an old pirrana metal muncher punch, see what they would charge to punch the holes. trade them some sawing ect, unless you need the holes on parts already on the mill.  then take a mini bench top drill press and rig it up on the mill.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Crusarius

Can you spin the handle all the way around on your jacks? I have a couple that I have to hold them up cause the log bunks. It is very annoying. You are not going to like it if that is the case.

Looks good though.

Bruno of NH

Can you take the jack handles off and weld a nut on top and use a 1/2" cordless impact to raise and lower it ?
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

Dana Stanley

Quote from: Crusarius on June 01, 2019, 09:45:53 PM
Can you spin the handle all the way around on your jacks? I have a couple that I have to hold them up cause the log bunks. It is very annoying. You are not going to like it if that is the case.

Looks good though.
Like Bruno said, my plan is to install coupling nut, like for threaded rod in place of the handles. Then I can use a socket in a twist driver (forget the real name) or a cordless drill. I may get an cordless angle drill, , and use it to raise and lower the mill head too.
Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

luap

I think the track mounting should be bolted as you said was your original plan. Any future adjustments will be easier to deal with than grinding off welds. A magnetic base drill would be just the thing for drilling many holes. Maybe a local tool rental would have one?

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