Strange problem with a chain and bar

[Owtlaw]

Today I picked up a brand new Husqvarna 572.  I bought it with a 24" bar and 3 of the C83 Husqvarna chains.  I was out on a job today and decided to use it on an apple tree removal.  The tree was only 10" at the base.  The saw acted like it had no power and was bogging down cutting through 4" limbs.  I make it a habit of turning the oilers all the way up when I get them.  I happened to notice that this bar and chain were running hot. As in extremely hot.  The bar was peeling paint on the bottom and turning colors.  I immediately stopped and changed out the bar and chain for the 28" Sugi from my 395.  The problem seems to have been remedied by doing that.  After the bar and chain cooled and I finished for the day I ran the chain on the bar off the saw and they seem to slide nicely.  I am now wondering if the bar has a bad heat treat on it or if the chain is in some way goofed up.  Also one other thing I noticed.  I did an oiler test by holding the tip about 1" from some clean white wood.  My Sugi bar and chain combo runs clean oil across the surface.  The 24" Husky bar leaves a dark gray streak.  Anyone ever run into this?  

[barbender]

Does the guage of the bar and chain match?

[Owtlaw]

Yes

[sablatnic]

I have experienced it on a Stihl 020 - I never found out why it happened, but it went away with a new chain and bar.

[Patrick NC]

I've had problems with the last 2 Husqvarna bars i had. One was an 18" on a new 550 that blew the sprocket tip in about 10 hours and the other was a new 20" I bought for my 365. It acted like you are describing. I switched it out to a cheap forester bar and no more problems. 

[Big_eddy]

Is the oiler hole in the bar clear? Sounds like it might be painted over.

[Owtlaw]

I was able to blow carb cleaner through it without any problem

[Tacotodd]

Card cleaner is MUCH easier to pass through a small hole (or one that's not quite in the correct place) than bar oil. Take a small drill bit and CAREFULLY run the bit in the hole. You might even run a much larger (1/2") bit about 1/8" in to "just" slightly taper/chamfer the oil hole. It's worth a shot because you "ain't got nothin to lose".

[mike_belben]

make a paper rub template of the bar and see that the oil hole location actually aligns with the oil cavity. 

[doc henderson]

It is new, take it back and get a new one and see if it is fixed.  let the dealer help you.  if you try to fix it yourself, the dealer may say you are on your own.

[Owtlaw]

I decided to put it on my granite inspection table today.  The *DanG thing had .050 twist in it.  The dealer has replaced it.  Hopefully it will be smooth sailing from here.  I will say this, the difference in power between the 395 and my 572 is crazy.  cant wait to get this out with the new bar.

[barbender]

Thanks for the update👍

[HolmenTree]

I decided to put it on my granite inspection table today.  The *DanG thing had .050 twist in it.  The dealer has replaced it.  Hopefully it will be smooth sailing from here.  I will say this, the difference in power between the 395 and my 572 is crazy.  cant wait to get this out with the new bar.

If I understand correctly your chain has a bent side ways twist in it.
Couple drive links are bent and your loop of chain has a hump in it laying on your granite table.
Easy to bend chain while cutting small trees especially if chain tension is a bit loose.
Just takes a small tree while felling to slide off the stump and bar taking the chain out of the rails with it.
You may not even notice it happening if the drive links get back running in track, until that bent section starts to heat up.
I've straightened a couple of loops like that sideways against my knee or small tree.

[realzed]

I may be wrong, but I took it to mean he found that his bar was twisted some..
Maybe even a twist in a bar can be fixed with a little persuasion as well though..  :D

[Guydreads]

I would agree that he meant twisted bar. It takes a lot of persuasion, especially if you're dealing with an older Oregon bar that would've come on the pro Jonsered saws in the late 90's early 2000's. (at least on my dad's bought new 2071 Turbo). Never did get the kink out of it

[HolmenTree]

I would agree that he meant twisted bar. It takes a lot of persuasion, especially if you're dealing with an older Oregon bar that would've come on the pro Jonsered saws in the late 90's early 2000's. (at least on my dad's bought new 2071 Turbo). Never did get the kink out of it

It's easy to see what my mind is normally focused on :D

In my lifetime I've hammered straight a few twisted bars with kinks in the rails.
Takes a good deal of patience with a shim in the bar's rail groove, and working a brass hammer on a anvil.