cutting shiplap on a mill

[woodweasel]

 Gonna be putting a office/mancave/playroom in my metal building. i wanna
cut some shiplap on my mill. I seen this on the site before using wedges.Searched the archives, but for the life of me cant find the specific
post. Anybody help a ole man out here :-[ :-[  Woodweasel

[redbeard]

Ship lap is a rabbit or dado cut on the long edges of boards you would need to do that part on a table saw. Sounds like you may be thinking of beveled siding lots of tricks to achieve this from cants if you search that you will find a lot of ideas.

[beenthere]

Member Arkansawyer had discussion and pics of a bevel siding jig, I believe. Might be what you have in mind.

[petefrom bearswamp]

IMO it is impossible to cut shiplap on the mill.
I have done quite a bit of shiplap after sawing on my power feed shaper.
Pete

[barbender]

Woodweasel, beveled lap siding is what you are after. Do a search for "Arkansawyer siding jig" I made one and it worked slick. Saw your boards at 1" and then resaw them on the jig.

[woodweasel]

yea.bevel lap is what im after, thats still not the post i'm after though ??? ???

[backwoods sawyer]

I simple way is to use wedges to cut the first piece from the cant and alternate by placing it under the cant for every other cut. :P

[WDH]

Member Planman1954  also posted a simple way to do it. 

"Just thought I'd add my simplistic way of making 8" beveled siding. My friend has a lumbermate 2000, and I'm fairly competent at using the thing (I've probably sawn 10 logs solo.) Anyway, we first saw an 8" wide x 12" high (or higher) piece of SYP. We tilt the beam up just enough to wedge a couple of 3/8" spacers under the beam's bottom right side on the sawmill base supports, placing the beam on a slight angle. The left side rests on the support beams, thus creating the correct angle for a bevel.  The spacers are probably 1.5" x 1.5" x 3/8" think set under the beam on the right side (the same side that we walk along as we push the saw through the beam.) The first cut is made resulting in a 5/8" down to 1/8" x 8" wide piece of siding. Before making the next cut, simply remove the spacers, and voila! The next piece is at the same angle. Then repeat putting the spacers under the same side and repeat the process. I'm currently building a barn using this stuff inside and out! Good luck. It's actually a fairly quick way of making siding."

[barbender]

Planman's method is a good one too. I went with the Arky version so I could saw the 1" boards, sticker and dry them, and then resaw them. 

[barbender]

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,38180.msg550135.html#msg550135

[Jim_Rogers]

I was looking through my gallery of pictures for something else and found this one:



 

I used a similar wedge but not as steep to cut bevel siding. and dropping 5/8" each cut to make 1/2" butts. If you plan it out right you end up with a flat 1" board on the bottom.

I have these two wedges I used some place here at the shop. And/or in my tool box that I carry to the mill. I have used them many times to shim something to get the right bevel cut.

You can do it if you draw the angle you want on the end of the cant, roll it up till it is parallel to the saw blade and measure the gap to get the dimension so you can create the wedge.

Jim Rogers

[Planman1954]

Here's the link:

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,58534.msg851690.html#msg851690

I'm currently helping my nephew cut a ton of this stuff from SYP. I'm making 3/8" and 5/8" drops on the scale, which seems to give me a good angle cut using the 3/8" sticks.

[woodweasel]

Thanks Fellows,
     GREAT INFORMATION 8) 8) I like the ideal of cutting the first piece the
bevel I want, then using it as a pattern.Sounds like that would be quicker
than using wedges.I could leave the ( pattern) on my mill,then lean over & put under the cant, if the cant is of manageable size 8) 8)Love this forum!
                                Woodweasel ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

[petefrom bearswamp]

I dont pay attention a lot to what goes on but what ever became of ARKY?

[PC-Urban-Sawyer]

I dont pay attention a lot to what goes on but what ever became of ARKY?

He lost his mill/business to a financial institution. Moved out to (Oklahoma???) to get work.

Herb

[wovennut]

There's two video's on you tube of someone that made a siding
jig for a bandsaw mill. With his jig you don't need to re-clamp
the cant on every pass. Planning on making one soon.
you tube search     
siding2.wmv
siding.wmv

[Ohio_Bill]

Here is another option , just flat sawed.

 


 

[thecfarm]

Thomas Bandsaw has a real nice set up. I saw it last year at the Bangor show. Did not see it working though. They run 2 chains on each side of the head with a hand crank to raise the head. To saw clap boards there is a lever on one side you just flip back and forth. No need to saw a cant then take it off and put back on and play with a jig. Mighty handy to have.

[36 coupe]

I have an early version of the Thomas clapboard attachment on my 6013.I saw 6x6 cants.Shiplap is run on my Belsaw planer.I have sawed cedar and poplar to make clapboards.The finish is rough but works well with stain.My uncle said that smooth clap boards didnt hold paint very well.There are knives that can be used to make novelty siding.Shiplap is run with 3 small knives run in the planer head.