band blades

cut2size · January 31, 2004, 02:01:35 PM

All this talk about sharpening "monkey" blades. I have been sharpening them on my woodmizer semi-auto sharpener for 2 years with no problem, In fact I think that they sharpen and definately set easier than woodmizer blades. I use WM standard cam and wheel and could not be more delighted with the results.
David

Fla._Deadheader · January 31, 2004, 02:11:41 PM

Thanks for the info, "cut". How's come it took ya so long to clue us in??? :D :D :D :D

RevCant · January 31, 2004, 04:19:20 PM

When I was running the bandsaw mill, I figured on 4 sharpenings per blade (using WMs). Everything after that was bonus. I also figured on using 4 blades per day. In other words, a day of sawing cost me a blade. WMs were $22.50 then. I tried some other blades, but I liked WMs service. I also sharpened my own.
By the way, I was cleaning up the shop today and found a box of 1 1/2 10/30 .050 blades. They look sharp and should still have some life left in them. These were ReSharped by WM. Let me know if anyone is interested - I'll work ya out a sweet deal ;D.

RevCant

Dave_Fullmer · January 31, 2004, 05:56:45 PM

I just bought a box of monkey saver blades from Cooks. I like their propaganda about how they set the tension in the blades depending on which way the saw cuts. My saw cuts opposite direction from WM The price for 14' 6" was just over $16 ea. I sure like the way they cut.

Fla._Deadheader · January 31, 2004, 06:07:25 PM

Hi Dave. I wasn't aware that Cooks sold MunkforsSager Blades. I thought they sold Lenox???

gmmills · January 31, 2004, 09:14:34 PM

cut2size,
   Would you be so kind as to tell me which style cam you are using, 9/29 or 10/30. I thought about trying MunkforsSager's but didn't want buy a cam until I see how they saw. Thanks.

  As a side note ,for any you out there having problems with blades not cutting rightand you know they are properly sharpened and set check out this Info. GO to Cookssaw.com and click on articles and read the article titled Information on Bandsaw Blades. This info is very helpful in diagnosing blade problems. It help me from pulling my hair out many times.

cut2size · January 31, 2004, 10:26:13 PM

My cam has a J on the front, no numbers on the back, I just took it off to see. I have a 1030B cam as well. I think that the J cam is the one that came with the sharpener. I use a dual tooth setter from Suffolk that is the easiest and best setter on the market
I just looked in the book and both cams were supplied by WM. The J cam is now called the 1029, I guess.
David

gmmills · February 01, 2004, 07:06:35 PM

cut2size,
Thanks alot for checking that out for me. I do have both WM cams . I guess there is no reason now not to try the MunkforsSagar's now.

Thanks again.

Swede · February 02, 2004, 04:00:44 AM

A friend of mine use Munkfors-blades four hours and then sharpen them himself manually with a diamond disc on a sharpener Oregon-type. He sharpens them 7 to 12 times and do it before they cut badly or breakes. He throw them away because the material in blade is lost, usaly not because of breaking.
I have to visit him soon.

He get his sawmill new 1991 or -92 and use it 500-800 hours a year. It resembles Amerika-Sågen, (4-post saw unit) not hanging just one side of the log ......... ;D
He have change the motor once and some blade guides.

Swede.

Dave_Fullmer · February 02, 2004, 03:06:41 PM

Harold,
Cooks is offering several brands. When I called them, they listed them, but after reading about your success with the Monksfordsager, I told them to send me 10. So far thats all I have used. I got 5 blades from Burgs that are the Lennox but I haven't put one on yet. I guess since Tom pointed out that I was a blade test technician, I better make a comparison test. :D :D :D I pass on the dog cut test though.

Dave.

Fla._Deadheader · February 02, 2004, 05:08:52 PM

Hope they work as well for you as they do for us.

Finally got ahold of Jim and sent the blades out today. If they do as well after he sharpens them, we will definitely have a winner.

RMay · February 02, 2004, 08:45:10 PM

Fia.-Deadheader what thickness & pitch & hook angle are you using on the monksfordsaager blades cutting heart pine :

Fla._Deadheader · February 03, 2004, 02:52:16 AM

1¼ " X .041 X 7/8P X 10° Hook Angle.

ronwood · February 03, 2004, 06:31:37 AM

Fla._Deadheader,

I spoke to this gentleman's wife sometime ago. He sharpen's a number of manufactures blades. He might be of some help.

JORDAN'S BAND SAW SERVICE
198 WAKULLA LA.
RINGGOLD, GA 30736
CHRIS: 877-313-4078 TOLL FREE

Ron

Kirk_Allen · February 03, 2004, 12:14:48 PM

Fla::
I got a call from the head Blade guy at Wood Mizer today regarding my question on the Two Sharps for others one price.

WM apologized and agreed the information on the site is not accurate and misleading. What they mean to say is: They sharpen the blades twice before sending them back. Once before the set and again after the set. So they conclude that your blade got sharpened twice for that $6.50 charge.

Now I'm no rocket scientist but if there sharpening it twice each time I send them in doesn't that shorten blade life?

They said other sharpening services will either set the tooth and then sharpen or sharpen then set. According to WM neither way ensures consistent blade sharpness/set for each side of the blade.

Not having done any of my own sharpening it sounds good but not sure what the "real" best way is to do it.

I still think that blade life is shortened with each sharpening.

Any input as to what is the best way to sharpen/set band saw blades?

Minnesota_boy · February 03, 2004, 01:54:35 PM

Woodmizers second sharpening is really a fine touch to get the edge back after deburring and setting, i believe. Sure it removes a bit of material, but such a tiny amount that is doesn't make much difference to the lifetime of a blade. In fact, it may prolong the blades lifetime because it gets rid of any tiny cracks that may form in the gullet. The cracks in the bottom of the gullet grow larger quickly leading to a broken blade.

I've been finding that the blades coming back from resharp often cut better than a new blade as the edge is that much sharper. It makes the tough sawing much more fun when the blade is super sharp.

Fla._Deadheader · February 03, 2004, 02:18:54 PM

I guess I have to agree with Minn-boy. One sharpen may not be razor sharp and after setting with the sharp blade, I could see where it might be sharper. I did not like the WM blade, because it was not RAZOR sharp. ???

Tom · February 03, 2004, 02:35:14 PM

x-,
I set then sharpen because it saves me time and labor. You will find people who are adamant about the way they do it, set and sharpen or sharpen and set.

While I prefer to set and sharpen, it's for two reasons. One described above and the other is to make sure that the face grind produces a surface that is 90 degrees to the direction of blade travel and a tooth point that is level on top, 90 degrees to the blade body and a very sharp edge.

Most sharpening procedures take very little surface from the blade. A second sharpening would be akin to stropping a razor or honing a knife. If the blade is sharpened and then set, the face of the tooth may not be square and the tip of the tooth will not be square because the tooth was bent and may have twisted some in the process. A second sharpening would square the tooth up.

Set - Sharpen / Sharpen - Set

The life of a blade may actually be extended by sharpening, if it is properly done. Blades lose life more by being used when dull, too fast sawing speed (stresses the body), too slow sawing speed (minimizes board foot production per sharpening) and improper storage.

Here is a link to EZ's previous sharpening thread. EZ's thread

Kirk_Allen · February 03, 2004, 04:25:30 PM

I am on my knees bowing down in worship 8)

I am absolutely amazed with the volume of knowledge on this site.

My hats off to all those who have made this such an awsome site.

I think even after the Daytona 500 starts my homepage will be FF instead of Nascar ;D

Tom, Thanks so much for the info. Its been a big help.

One thing that is so amazing with this site is that even once you questions are answered, it leads to more questions.

Anyone using the Dinasaw sharpening system?

Minnesota_boy · February 03, 2004, 04:52:08 PM

Out of the hundreds of blades I've sent back to resharp, one must have had a tiny crack in a gullet that they missed. I sawed for a while on it and could hear a faint noise that didn't sound right. Stopped and looked hard at the blade and finally found the crack, about 1/8 inch long. figured the blade was shot anyway, so I kept on sawing until it broke. It took about a half-hour for that to happen. Noise kept getting louder as the crack grew.