Chain sharping for lazy people

[Weekend_Sawyer]

I always sharpen by hand and agree, the more you do it the better you get.
one thing about sharpening is to have the saw clamped down so it doesn't move. 
When at home I clamp my chainsaw by the bar in a vice, makes it much easier.

For the field I bought a Stump Vice from Baileys (one of our sponsors!)
Item #15246 cost about $8. Definatley makes it easier to sharpen in the woods.
I was going to make something like this by welding a couple of spikes to the back of a C clamp.
But for that price, why bother!

Jon

[Deadwood]

I think you guys missed something with all this discussion about sharpening a chainsaw. I agree with just about everything everyones says including how much more work it is to cut with a dull chain. What I think was missed was how much safer a sharp chainsaw chain really is.

A sharp chain does not jump or bounce around as much so the saw does what it should do, grab wood fibers and sever them. Considering the fact about how logging is now the most dangerous job in America, and how many injuries are caused by a chainsaw, learning to know how to properly sharpen a chainsaw to me would be a requirement of safe operation.

Another factor is chainsaw longevity. If you run with a dull saw all the time, you are building up heat. Heat that radiates from the bar and into the crankcase of your saw. Soon it migrates into your crankshaft bearings and you just smoked your saw. I know that sounds outlandish, but heat builds up quicker than you think. Also with a two stroke engine, not a whole lot of oil is reaching those bottom crankshaft bearings. Enough under good operating conditions, but add a little heat and you are really shortening the life of the saw.

I wish I could explain how to sharpen a saw. I know when you buy a new chain and file it first so that it is sharp, you know you have the technique down. There is also a saying in the woodworking world, don't over spend for any sharpening system. Keep it simple and the inventors of this world will not be seperating you from your cash. Myself I am a minimalist. I use a simple chainsaw file and a flat file to do all my filing. I go light on the rakers and go hard on the saw teeth. I also file my saw every hour or so because the few minutes it takes to touch a saw up, is well worth it.

Someone also mentioned using a dull file. As a rule of thumb I use a new file with every new saw chain. I also use a thread cutting oil to make my file take more steel off easily and float away the filings. Then again, I am kind of fussy when it comes to my chainsaw. (see post on First Fight for more information)

[Modat22]

When I first started using a chainsaw, I used a file guide until I got the hang of it.

Now I use one of those dremel type sharpeners for rock abused chains but I honestly feel like I get a better edge with a file. My saw seems to stay sharper longer with a file sharpened chain.

[3584ELK]

Al is correct. I'm as lazy as they come and I've figured out that pushing a file is a lot easier than pushing a dull chain through a bunch of logs. If one of my saws doesn't cut like a hot knife through butter, I stop and touch it up. By hand, with a round file. I know what a sharp chain is supposed to look like. If a chain is dull, I file off whatever doesn't look like a sharp chain. It is exactly that easy.

Rocky,

I would tend to agree with your viewpoint.  Here's why:  When I was doing firewood, my partner owned every gadget possible for sharpening chains.  He was ALWAYS in the rocks, too!  At any rate, despite all his guides, Dremel stones, etc.  his chain always looked like hell- various angles, tiny teeth, etc.  I always used a 3/8" round file and "guesstimated" the correct angle, based on the original.   When I was a faller, I sharpened whenever I fueled or took a break. 

There are supposed to be some "trick" ways to sharpen a chain, but I have never stumbled upon something that worked better than OEM angles. 

[scottr]

3584ELK , when reading someones "trick" to sharpening chain make sure you know the specific chain and conditions that they are talking about .

[ely]

i aggree that the more you attempt to sharpen with a file the better you will get. it is a learned art. i try to teach everyone that will listen to me but some are adamant that it is easier to take their chains to someone else and have them ground. i use my chains until there is nothing left or nothing else left to put back together. always file by hand. not gonna say how long it took me to get the hang of it though.lol
not near as long as it took me to learn to sharpen a knife as akid. my dad done it for me until i was 10 or so, then he said you sharpen your own knife, after about three different knives i had that down pat. but in the mean time those knives looked like heck.

i touch up  after every tank also.

[Hoop]

I should be amazed but I'm not.  I use Oregon 73LG chains, and they don't cut worth a crap when they're new.  In fact, they cut superior the more they're filed.

Guess I'm puzzled when people say "it cuts as good as new".

New chains cut like crap.  Even if you give the rakers a swipe.  It usually takes 2 to 3 sharpenings to get it where it really cuts good.

[Woodhog]

Now that we all have them sort of sharp...

How do YOU tell if it is as sharp as possible?????

Thanks

[floyd]

! puzzles me you need to sharpen out of box chain to make it cut. this chisel bit or round chain?

if you throwing out hash brown looking shreds then chain sharp.

[chet]

When my chain starts to cut like it did when it was new, I usually will take a break and sharpen it.  ;)  I'm one of dem old fashioned hand sharpeners.

I used to like to tease new employees when they were learning to file. I'd ask them when they were done if they just filed da chain, or sharpened it.   :D

[scottr]

Now that we all have them sort of sharp...

How do YOU tell if it is as sharp as possible?????

Thanks

Woodhog , you can look at the sharpened edge in the sunlight and if i disappears it's sharp enough . If you don't have sunlight then a loupe and will work . 

[Rocky_J]

Now that we all have them sort of sharp...

How do YOU tell if it is as sharp as possible?????

Thanks

Ya gotta know what a sharp edge looks like. Have you ever sharpened a pocketknife, or any sharp tool? A sharp edge is a sharp edge. If you don't know what a sharp edge looks like, then you gotta learn that first. Look at a single edge razor blade (box cutter blade). Notice that you can barely see the cutting edge because it's so sharp. You can see one side or the other, but not the edge itself.

Now look at your dull chainsaw chain. See the dull edge? File it until you can't see that leading edge any more. When it looks like a razor blade and not like the edge of a spoon, then it's sharp.

[beenthere]

I use a 10X magnifying lens to look at the chain tooth. The 'sharp edge' shows real well, and it's also good or identifying wood, as well as looking for splinters and steel filings poking the skin too.

[floyd]

Oh no ,guys...take it to metallurgist & have it x-rayed.

[beenthere]

floyd   :D     What would x-ray show?  I don't want to see the outline of a steel tooth.    (and I doubt a metalurgist uses an x-ray for much, as the density of metal doesn't let x-rays through). 

I use the lens because:
* I have it
* I don't have good close-up vision anymore
* I don't get good enough focus with my reading glasses
* I get a great look at the surface and edge I am filing
* I like it that way

[Dan_Shade]

engine builders use x-rays and sonic testing to look for cracks

as long as I have big chips flying, I'm happy, but then again, i'm in the dirt so much, i'm happy that my chain will cut anything!

[floyd]

It was a joke.  see post of mine above it.

Yrs ago I did timber inventory for USFS. Boss form supervisor's office said we had some regional office desk jockies coming out to "observe". Boss was from AR. He says "let's take these boys on a hike" .

So we walked bout 3 mi in to 1st plot. Spent 2 hr discussing whether tree that was borderline with prism was "in" or "out". We never made it past this plot cause they talked it to death.


This gonna go over like lead balloon, but this discussion reminds me of that.

[treeboy]

I use a 10X magnifying lens to look at the chain tooth. The 'sharp edge' shows real well, and it's also good or identifying wood, as well as looking for splinters and steel filings poking the skin too.

Great idea, beenthere - I forgot all about that! When I was out in the field I would use my lens to see what I was doing to my axe or knife. Worked great!! Yes also good for finding Devils club where ever too.

Spencer

[sawguy21]

Yes also good for finding Devils club where ever too.

Spencer

[sawguy21]

Sorry for the double post Trigger finger a little itchy. I am not a fan of your Devil's Club either.  Nasty stuff and you have lots of it :(. I give the chain a a squint and then try it. If I get a smooth cut  and nice curly chips I'm happy.

[logmason]

This place makes for good reading on a sleepless night.
Best way I learned to sharpen was to draw lines on vice jaws using magic marker and trisquare for proper angle. I use both hands on file, and glance at marks to stay true.
In the field I put saw on tail gate and rest nose of bar against plastic bed liner.
Never tryed any gadget, but the roller guide sounds interesting.
Since noting how much the saw shop ground away, I stopped taking them there long ago and just learned.
Be interesting to read of "altered angles" here, though I am not saw smart enough to type about that.

[rusted]

That 'Swedish Roller' has been good for me, it's almost foolproof.  It also sounds a little dirty.    :D

[sawguy21]

That 'Swedish Roller' has been good for me, it's almost foolproof.  It also sounds a little dirty.    :D

I am not touching that line ;D

[redpowerd]

anybody run the bar into a cull tree vertically and use the slot to hold the saw while filing? thats the way ive been sharpening chains in the woods for years. takes a litte practice to get the hole just right so you can rotate the chain while still holding the saw upright. usually done on pole size culls.