The Forestry Forum

Worked on a couple of large pines today and since my manual mill does not have a debarker I was removing the mudded up bark with an axe.   I find a small spliting maul effective but it is just too heavy to put in any stretch of time with it.

I would like to buy a better axe for debarking.   Any suggestions on type, size and where to purchase?

do u have access 2 a pressure washer that may do the trick

Axes are designed for removing limbs or felling the tree.  What you really want is a bark spud.  There are 2 types of these.  One has a short handle and a curved blade for following around the tree, the other has a straight blade with a longer handle and is used when you want to remove the bark lengthwise of a log.

We traditionally used the curved blade to remove the bark from aspen as it would come off better in short sections going around the log.  Pines, spruce, and fir were better peeled lengthwise as you could start a strip with the spud, then grab the loose end and pull it and it would strip the length of the log (provided you were peeling in spring when the bark was slipping)

In a 'pinch', a straightend hoe works quite well, or even a square shovel.

The long handled 'spud' I got was being sold at a H Depot as an ice chopper !

Farmer 77, I use a old timey draw knife... Works well for me on southern pine... Used it yesterday on some red oak logs, was a lot harder than the pine... I have also used the bent hoe, shovel and spud... Depends on where the log lays on the ground or up on the log rack or on the mill..

Been thinking about one of those Lancelot blades (with the chain saw teeth) that go on a 4 1/2 in. hand held grinder...

Jerry

We would sometimes run a chain saw the length of the log to get the spud under the bark.Than peel the bark off with the spud.But most of our peeling would take place in the spring when it would come off real easy.I would try the power washer idea.We have tried to peel trees in late June early July.Not a easy job.

I use the pressure washer..............built a rack that'll hold 10 or 12 logs, away from the mill; it's already muddy enough around there.  Set the logs on and off with farm-tractor front end loader/w home-made forks.  'Course you gotta have a source for water and would be problems if you're sawing in freezing weather.

Here is a peeler made by a fellow neighbor sawyer.  Truck leaf spring with an osage orange handle.  I made a copy cept my handle is a might longer.

You have your Marbles Chris..  :D

That is a great looking Peeler Larry.  I gottaa make me onna those..  8)

 I use an old broken 1/2"drive ratchet that was fired an pounded down into a chisel then turned or curved to form a 1/2 round like a paint scraper. It works for getting the mud out of cracks but I wouldn't want to peel the whole log with it. I also tried a skillsaw blade on a brush cutter, DON'T.

Pat.... the Marbles is certainly strong enough ...... :o


To all:  The bark on these digger pines was (is) so tight that no seperation is happening.  I have to chip at it with an axe to get anywhere.  It won't get started to remove any size piece at one time so each swing of the axe takes only a blade width chunk.  

Thanks for all of the input.  Im thinking that the draw knife might work but a heavy duty hoe shaped chopper is what would work best if the handle will take chipping like an axe.   Havent seen any "ice choppers" in Home Depot here out west.  

The closest thing I can find is in the Baileys cataloge is the Pulaski Axe with a hoe on one end of the head and an axe on the other.   Baileys does have a bark spud but it has a straight handle..... for looser bark.

Any sources for a chopper with a strong handle?

Also, anyone try the log wizard (planer head attachment for the end of a chain saw)?

If you aren't in too big of a hurry, you can spray pine with an insecticide and wait a couple or three weeks.  The bark will just fall off.  The insecticide is to keep the bugs out.

Submerging pine in water will allow the bark to slip withoug the wood being hurt too.

I bought one of these Chris...

-Wizard- (http://cgi.ebay.com/CHAINSAW-LOG-DEBARKER-WOOD-PORTABLE-TOOL-CHAIN-SAWMILL_W0QQitemZ130062137337QQihZ003QQcategoryZ29520QQtcZphotoQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Mainly to put a rustic chamfer on square logs, but I haven't used it yet.  Much cheaper than the Log Wizard, and far as I can tell it's an identicle knock off.

I've also got the old style WoodMizer debarker head that came off my LT-40, and you can have it if you want to build a debarker for your mill.

I use  a log wizard on every opening cut. I feel the extra couple of minutes per log is worth it, blade life goes way up. It doesn't take long to open up an eight inch wide cut on a ten foot log.


Dave

Tom:   Do you recal what type of insecticide releases the bark?    That would make things
sooooo much easier....... I like a good arm work out with the axe on the stuck bark but the needed breaks are getting longer and longer...... and I not drinking on the breaks either. ;D ;D

Pat and Dave.... the log Wizard sounds really good.  I assume you need at least a 18" chain saw and would have to prety much dedicate it to it.  Sounds like the fastest way though.

Pat..... Thanks for the offer on the LT40 debarker!  Is'nt it ran hydraulically?   Plus I only have 24 HP.   If its 12 volt that would be a great thing but you should be using it yourself?

farmer, I have tried several things and what works the best for me has been an old wore out double bit axe.  Axe is worn down and is kind of thick behind the cutting edge.  Works good.  I tried the wizard and if you want one I have one I'll sell you for $75.  Only used once for about two minutes.

I use a block chipping hammer and axe.
                                       Fred :)

I need to get a camera, hope i can draw you a good picture. I welded a straight hoe to a 18" piece of .5" pipe. I screwed a union on and added another piece of 18" pipe. over the second pipe i slipped a 6"x2" nipple with a 2"to 1" reducer on each end this piece works as a slide hammer. I put on another union 6more inches of pipe and union and tennies ball on the end. It works real good and i aint got to swing it.

I installed a brand new debarker package.  What I have of the old one is just the debarker housing and blade and it has a drive shaft with a pulley. All these debarkers are 12v electric.  You can make this work.

Pat:   yes please ........ hang on to the debarker housing.... I would love to give it a try.  Sounds like I will just need a 12v motor that my Honda twin can energize (might need a bigger battery).  (thanks)

Woodhick:  Thanks for the offer for the wizard.  If I had the dollars on hand I would take it.  I will email you when I get the green stuff.

Limbrat:  your sliding hammer debarker sounds really good.  I will be going through the under bench junk pile to see what is there.


-- I did order the Palaski from Baileys.  That is my starting point.

Morning, people- been "lurking" and learning for months now; great forum!

Also been learning how to cut up trees over the last year or so since Katrina gave me a huge supply of logs to practice on.  One thing I tried early on (right after the farm was littered with downed pine trees) was to get the bark off as fast as possible and stack the logs in my pole barn.  Tried axes, draw knives plus a real peeling spud and then on a whim of frustration, started hacking at a trunk with my kaiser blade (swing blade some call it...) and wow it worked pretty well.  Put a good edge on it and started learning how to push it down the trunk in long swings.  Takes some practice but now I can peel a 20 foot log 20 in in diameter in about 15-20 min (sweating like the proverbial pig).  Don't know if others have tried it or not but it works for me- good luck.

LJM

Welcome to the Forestry Forum ljmathias. ;D
      Never seen a kaiser blade....any pics of that critter. :)

Could that be a machete?  ???

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/ditchbankblade.jpg)

Ditchbank blade
Kaiser blade
brush axe
sling blade

Yeah, that's it- thanks for posting the picture.

I use two different sizes, one smaller one for working on getting bark off boards being cut on the mill (small stuff, wane and such) and a larger one (more leverage) for working on trees on the ground or on treated 4X4
s.  Only problem with these is you get a great workout but your back complains some... worth it though to get through the debarking process fast.  Several comments made on time of year best to peel a tree and spring/summer is by far the easiest (and the messiest- sap everywhere, even dripping from the pearly white pine wood freshly exposed).  Given the leverage and the "push" power you can get behind one of these, you can even take bark off red oak although that's a fight you'll take to bed with you... :D

lj..... the Kaiser blade looks like a good possibility.  Assume your bark was somewhat loose?

Where did you buy your Kaiser blades from?

And Tom:   What insecticide did you use to seperate the bark (protect from insects)?

AHhhh so......machete on a stick. 8)
               Thanks Tom. ;D

Quote from: Tom on January 03, 2007, 12:42:06 PM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/ditchbankblade.jpg)

Ditchbank blade
Kaiser blade
brush axe
sling blade

I've got one of those and I didn't even know what it was...  :D

Quote from: Tom on January 03, 2007, 12:42:06 PM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/ditchbankblade.jpg)

Ditchbank blade
Kaiser blade
brush axe
sling blade

Around this part of the world, it is lovingly referred to as a "brushcutter".   ;)

I've got an idea that I haven't tried yet.  I have several old 4" jointer blades.  I'm thinkin' of welding one to a chisel that fits my air chisel.  'Course ya gotta have air available, but that's what they make long hoses for.

Careful Dang, you may soon be a world-famous wood carver  ;D  ;D

If the  bark is loose, debarking is so easy with a kaiser blade that I can finish a log in 5-10 min working either both sides same time, then roll and repeat, or doing one quarter down, switch hands, and one quarter back up, roll and repeat.  They sell these all over (Lowes and lots of online places) but most are the size that is too big to handle easily.  I bought two different sizes online from a company in Jackson, MS- I can get the name and email for you if you're interested.  Thing to remember with learning to use this tool for debarking is that (like learning any new tool/method) it takes patience, trial and error and perseverence.... but it's well worth the effort.  Also learning how to turn larger timbers I'm cutting into timber frames- now THAT takes patience.

QuoteWhat insecticide did you use to seperate the bark (protect from insects)?

The insecticide had nothing to do with loosening the bark, time was used.  The insecticide was used to hold down inoculation of the logs with staining fungus when the beetles lay their eggs.  It was also to kill the adults before eggs could be laid.  Bark removed from the log should be removed from close proximation with the logs.  The sugars in the cambium and the bark itself seem to draw insects like a magnet.

  I still use an antique log spoon I found at an town sight up here. As soon as I get my new fangled digital camera I'll post a pic of it. As far as I know it was made around 1890 and it works great. I've seen others at flea markets in the States selling for about $30.
  It's just my prefrence but I like to use antique tools whenever I can. Just something about the feel of them and the history behind them. ;D

 ??? hey jp green what have you got left to that wood mizer debarker ???

Welcome to the Forestry Forum Donavan. 8)
Looking forward to pics from the land of the midnight sun. ;D

Quote from: millit on January 07, 2007, 08:40:38 AM
??? hey jp green what have you got left to that wood mizer debarker ???

What I have is a housing that has a bearing on each end supporting a drive shaft. There's a pulley on one end, and the debarker blade with carbide tips and guard shield on the other.

This is the old style Woodmizer Debarker.  You would need to fabricate the arms that hold it with springs, and a 12v motor mount. Also a piviot mount that mounts the whole assembly to the sawhead.

Quite simple actually.  It's Farmer Chris's now though, and I will supply the original debarker manual with parts breakdown for the unit, so he can easily fabricate the parts out of the book.