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NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"

Started by AtLast, February 22, 2004, 05:28:58 PM

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sawguy21

I let the saw warm up for a minute or so then run it about half throttle to ensure the oiler is doing its thing. I won't run any saw at WOT without load. Last time I did that, the clutch spun off and disappeared for parts unknown
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

hydro2

I certainly would think you would want it to run out of gas before it runs out or oil, otherwise you will be smoking your bar!!! DAH!!!!!!!
353 Husky
Husky 372XP
030 Stihl
Mahindra 4035
Speeco Log Splitter
Hardy Outside Wood Stove

HeartMahPoulanz

Quote from: Hunter on February 25, 2004, 02:01:34 PM
I brake mine in alot differant than that. I personally use a 32:1 or 40:1 premix with a good synthetic lube, I start the saw and let it run on fast idle for about 10-20 minutes. The I go out and wrap the saw once or twice.Then let it sit and idle for the rest of the tank.
usually by then the rings are seated.
Hunter
For what it's worth, this is NOT  good idea according to the Stihl-rep I spoke with.  I had just bought a new 194t (thank gods the same rep got the store to allow return of the never-cut-with 194t, I went and got a 355t w/ same exact $$ and am happy a as pig-in-[I have typed a profane word that is automatically changed by the forum censored words program I should know better] now ;D ), was on-phone with a Stihl rep and topic of its break-in / its use-so-far came up, I said yes, that is the 194t running in-background, 45:1 motomix and hpUltra, running on idle through tank #2 right now (I knew they're chipped and thankfully had the tach on it so knew all my figures, not that they checked but still- have since learned that Echo encourages you to take-home their gear-- 7-day, you-can-use-it return policy, blows my mind I mean I guess it's cool people aren't dicks enough to go 'borrowing' 2511's all the time and returning them... ) AAaanyway, guy on-phone from Stihl said to go rev it real quick then turn it off, he said that when it's just idling it is not cooling itself fully so that's not ideal he said you should be using it but just not 'going hard', not doing extended cuts, and not full-throttling outside of wood.  Have also read (on forums) that it's best to see the engine more as "2-states" (as opposed to, say, a car, wherein you've got the throttle's whole power-band in-use through routine driving), 1=idling and 2=full-throttle....that 'bedding-in'/setting of the piston/jug happens very quickly and your best approach is to full-throttle(in wood!!) very hard, then idle, never "pushing" it but making it so all its use is full-throttle or idle, not playing-around through the power-band or doing half-ass cuts with it....sounds like your ideal 'setup' would be a big-ass piece of wood you could 'bury' the bar in, hard enough that you don't bog it but full-throttle and pushing it a bit, then let it sit and idle there a lil, repeat a couple times and let unit cool.  Repeat procedure from here. 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re higher-oil-% I can't find a good answer, the Stihl guy said my 45:1 was only increasing carbon buildup and (via email after registering my 355t) echo told me it was of no value for me to be oiling-up their Red Armor to 45:1 (only use R.Armor w/ my 355t)  Wish I could get a 'final word' on this, have finally finished rebuilding a snapped-in-half ppt266(echo pole saw 25cc extendable) and ready to play with/mod the engine but thing doesn't have H&L jets (never seen this before, never had a petrol pole before though and will not possess a string-trimmer/edger!!) so no idea what to do, muff and air-intake are so choked-up but unlike the 355t I can't just open them and then open H&L so the mixture is safe to run / not overly lean, just removing some of the muff's restrictions has me worried I could be running-lean now...though the powerhead doesn't get NEARLY as hot and all I did was remove the spark-arrester and its 'restricter-plate' ie the plate that pegs-on the arrester and usually has some lil slit in it!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Would LOVE to know more about oil% ^^^, with my 266 I have a new spark-plug but haven't installed it as I figure I should be safe and run it 40:1(or thicker) so as to make-up for the extra airflow from exhaust-restriction-removal, know this is going to hurt power as the average "bang" in the jug is now higher air% with fuel that's higher-oil% but despite less bang-per-stroke it should be the same oil through my engine per-stroke, right?  IE it's running weaker, but just-as-lubed, on the more-air, 37:1 mix?  (I use only good, canned fuels so should be getting max 'bang' per ounce of starting/base petrol here!)

btulloh

Welcome to the Forestry Forum HMP.  You'll f ind this to be good source of info And helpful, knowledgeable people. 

You probably now hold the record for responding to a very old post. Certainly not a problem, sometimes it even revives an old thread for a while. 

Once again, welcome and enjoy your stay here. 
HM126

HeartMahPoulanz

oh btw that carb w/o knobs is a 'zama rb-k112', fwiw!  Noticed on my 'dissection unit', an echo pole-string-trimmer, that the carb on that also had no H&L screws...it's like they don't use them on these types of units, can't understand why such a different carb-approach (though I'll say this old 266 purrs in a way my new 355t never did!)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re using my current spark-plug while running rich fuels, does it negate using the plug to tell me about the engine I inherited here?  This is my go-to image for spark-plug-reading: 0ff Site photo link deleted by ADMIN


Quote from: isawlogs on February 27, 2004, 06:51:45 PMAs far as breacking a saw in its like whats been said put it to work but with out w. o. t . out of wood
Hell yeah!!

Quote from: hydro2 on December 31, 2004, 08:07:31 PMI certainly would think you would want it to run out of gas before it runs out or oil, otherwise you will be smoking your bar!!! DAH!!!!!!!
Anyone have any tips how to start testing a non-functional pole-saw cutter-head(echo PPT266)'s oiler? Since it's not same clutch- hell I'm actually uncertain/intrigued at where the ADMIN LANGUAGE EDIT clutch is IE how does this thing *stop* if I, say, buried it with a raker-less chain?  Have been assuming it's base of drive-shafts, where they interface to the engine/powerhead? Anyway am blown-away at both pricing, and parts availability(and ease & diagrams etc etc) for the parts for this discontinued polesaw so ready to replace the oiler if needed but have never seen this type of oiler before as I've never used these before...here's a pic of the powerhead if it helps, maybe someone here will know something for me :) My only thought is 'pour solvents into there, blast carb-cleaner spray into the bar's-oiler-hole on the cutter-head, hopefully the force dislodges/clears the pathway at best, or exposes leak at worst' though am not expecting a leak, had an empty tank when I got it and I put good bar-oil in there and it's dispensed none.
Cutter-head, its drive-sprocket seems to just be spun by 'worm-gear' / side-contact-spinning with the driveshaft:
More Off Site photo's and photo links deleted by Admin.

Expect some pressurized-solvents has a good chance but would be nice to have another trick up my sleeve if it doesn't get it lubing my chain, realllly wanna take this guy to a job ;D

Jeff

There will be no welcome from me until you knock the foul language off. You might also have a chance at the record for how quick you get a forever ban. Knock it off.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

longtime lurker

Fuel saw, start saw, rev it a little to get oil around the bar, kill tree, kill tree, kill tree, sharpen, refuel. 
Kill tree, kill tree, kill tree, sharpen, refuel.

In other words I take no special care with a new saw whatsoever. If it flies apart (never happened to me yet) I'm going to take it back and be leaving the dealers with the next one... s'why I filled out the warranty card.
The quickest way to make a million dollars with a sawmill is to start with two million.

Real1shepherd

They used to tell us breaking in big cc Swede saws...run them like you're gonna use them. Which of course, is not WOT out of the cut. There's no reason to do that anyway except briefly to tune..

And yes, when first cold let the saw warm up a minute or so. A lot of saws have been killed because they were started cold and plunged right into work. Everyone can afford to wait a minute or so.

Kevin


Air Lad

Yes. I like to start them, give a few little squirts to establish a good idle and sit them on the ground for a bit while I pre meditate how the task will unfold. This is also a safety issue as in not going into a tricky job without plenty of thought. 2 /3 mins later the moving bits are all up to temp and good to go.
Most engine wear happens at cold start or shortly after

HeartMahPoulanz

@Jeff I'm very sorry I usually go out of my way to write "PITB" and don't know what got into me, wish I knew what the offensive word was as I can't figure it out on-context...also see I've got 2 warnings for linking to off-site content, I hope you don't think I ignored one warning & posted another link I simply did not see the 1st.

Always find bad language bothersome myself so am embarrassed to be called on it but can tell you that is the last of it, sorry you had to waste time editing it (and editing-out my link to picture, am so used to forums wanting to save-space and preferring off-site that I didn't get it...)  Am going to go check out the TOU as I like this forum a lot and don't wanna ruffle any feathers here!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Re break-in's / tunes - and if I should make a new thread for this then by all means please let me know but seems a tuning thing to me and it'll be new 'break-in' once mods are done - but on my recently resurrected polesaw (echo 266), I modified the airbox, went to do the muffler and noticed its zama rb-k11 carb had no H&L screws!!  So now I'm just leaving all the muff's restricter plating / baffling in-place, see two outcomes here:

- adjusting the zama rb-k11 isn't as-dangerous as I've been led to believe, or
- the choice to run this machine lean (ie do the mods and simply leave the factory tuning, I use canned fuel so it'll help a lil & I'll bump to 45:1 oil, see how long the more-powerful, but lean + lower-longevity, unit lasts at that point (have wanted to test this, have heard that running lean - especially moderately-lean, not super-lean - isn't remotely as serious as most believe it to be!!

Al_Smith

If you do a rebuild with a used cylinder and new rings it takes some run time for the rings to seat .They will in time .Having said that on a rebuild I flog them in the cut but don't dead stick them out of the cut .What's  the point to that any way ? Couple tanks, carb set rich then lean it out and cut wood with gusto if it's tuned right .BTW I too have spun a clutch off once .Shot down my driveway about 100 miles per hour heading for Canada .As luck would have the clutch didn't release  from the drum,I found it .Never ran one again fresh from a rebuild without  a bar and chain .

Real1shepherd

Quote from: AtLast on February 25, 2004, 04:33:14 PM
Well so far it seems to be many differant opinions. I appreciate seating the rings and all. But I cant imagine STIHL expecting people to not only take that kinda time but HAVE that kind of time for simply just running the saw. Im NOT saying anyone is right or wrong. I guess I was just hoping there would be a general concensis. Like I said, I ran the saw "alittle" before putting it to work and typically use this saw for bucking logs. I guess time will tell.  That and I have alot of faith in STIHL so lets hope that pays off  ;D
It's a non-issue unless it specifically states in your OM a particular way the company wants you to break in their saw.
if not, run them like you're gonna use them...hard. Don't baby a chainsaw.....it hasn't come to that yet even with the newer ones.

Incredibly bad JuJu to let them idle for long periods of time.......that's not within the design parameters of chainsaws.
Kevin

Air Lad

Quote from: Real1shepherd on August 13, 2020, 08:13:41 PM
Quote from: AtLast on February 25, 2004, 04:33:14 PM
Well so far it seems to be many differant opinions. I appreciate seating the rings and all. But I cant imagine STIHL expecting people to not only take that kinda time but HAVE that kind of time for simply just running the saw. Im NOT saying anyone is right or wrong. I guess I was just hoping there would be a general concensis. Like I said, I ran the saw "alittle" before putting it to work and typically use this saw for bucking logs. I guess time will tell.  That and I have alot of faith in STIHL so lets hope that pays off  ;D
It's a non-issue unless it specifically states in your OM a particular way the company wants you to break in their saw.
if not, run them like you're gonna use them...hard. Don't 'Admin language edit' a chainsaw.....it hasn't come to that yet even with the newer ones.

Incredibly bad JuJu to let them idle for long periods of time.......that's not within the design parameters of chainsaws.
Kevin
Modern engines are built to such fine tollerances these days that break in is hardly applicable. Having said that there is nothing wrong with going easy with a new machine for a short period while all the moving parts and lubrication get to know each other. Most warranty and out of warranty issues would not be related to the users first tank or two. More likely parts malfunction or user abuse . $00.02   ;)

Ianab

If your saw dies in the the first month of use, they don't ask questions like "Did you cut down a tree?" 

It's fuel / oil mix?
Did you putz with it?

Otherwise it was basically faulty from the factory. 

OK, It's possible to abuse a saw, but laying it on a log and giving it full noise isn't one of them.  ;D
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Air Lad

By abuse I meant no oil in mix ;)

Al_Smith

Straight gas will cause one of two things .Either a new saw or practice at rebuilding a two cycle engine .

JKendrick87

Man I love this forum! Finding valuable information from an almost 20yr old thread! Was looking for advice on breaking in my new MS 400c.
Anyone who stops learning is old, whether at twenty or eighty. Anyone who keeps learning stays young.

Magicman

@JKendrick87 I see no need for you to go to all of the trouble breaking it in.   no_no

Simply box it up and send it to me and I will go through the labor intensive break in procedure.  I will surely need to keep it a couple of years to insure that there are no lurking warranty issues that would be a burden to you.  You could also send me a prepaid shipping label so that I could send it back to you when I get a round-to-it.   :)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

lxskllr

Man, this place is great. Everyone's so helpful!

:^D

Jeff

Quote from: JKendrick87 on December 12, 2023, 08:55:40 PM
Man I love this forum! Finding valuable information from an almost 20yr old thread! Was looking for advice on breaking in my new MS 400c.

23 years of helping each other has given us a huge content to help out members that are finding us for the first time with good solid info. Plus, all of the related pics are intact!
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

PoginyHill

My new Stihl 462 C-M mentions a "calibration" procedure where you let the new saw warm up for 30 secs then run full throttle for a couple minutes. I think this is for the M-tronic carburetor. The dealer did this, so I didn't have the pleasure. But it's first real use, I did nothing special.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

JKendrick87

Quote from: Magicman on December 12, 2023, 09:23:03 PM
@JKendrick87 I see no need for you to go to all of the trouble breaking it in.   no_no

Simply box it up and send it to me and I will go through the labor intensive break in procedure.  I will surely need to keep it a couple of years to insure that there are no lurking warranty issues that would be a burden to you.  You could also send me a prepaid shipping label so that I could send it back to you when I get a round-to-it.   :)
:D :D Thank you for being so willing to help Magic!
Anyone who stops learning is old, whether at twenty or eighty. Anyone who keeps learning stays young.

Magicman

Aww Shucks, what are friends for??   ???
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

JKendrick87

Quote from: PoginyHill on December 13, 2023, 07:29:24 AM
My new Stihl 462 C-M mentions a "calibration" procedure where you let the new saw warm up for 30 secs then run full throttle for a couple minutes. I think this is for the M-tronic carburetor. The dealer did this, so I didn't have the pleasure. But it's first real use, I did nothing special.
I'm wondering if this is something separate from the tests they do from the factory? I've heard that these newer saws due to EPA regulations have to pass a bunch of tests at high and low rpms.
Anyone who stops learning is old, whether at twenty or eighty. Anyone who keeps learning stays young.

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